Abrawang

Abrawang
Birthday
February 29
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I've worked for a big multi-national, lived abroad for several years, travelled a lot, now in politics. Married once but separated; no kids. Generally utilitarian except for minority rights.

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NOVEMBER 11, 2010 9:01AM

Road Trip - Closing Time in Bogota

Rate: 12 Flag

          I had a road trip that lasted nearly a decade and have been meaning to blog about some of it, so...

 

          A bunch of the boys was whooping it up at the Malamute Saloon.  Well, not quite, except for the whooping part.  We’d arrived in Bogota a couple of weeks past and nightlife settled on an unexceptional club in a mall a block from the apart-hotel where, for safety’s sake, our employer deemed we should stay. 

 

          The club may have been unexceptional but the weekend house band wasn’t.  We’d quickly developed a taste for the cumbias that were their staple.  It was in the mid-80s and I’d be working with three colleagues, Ronaldo, Dominic and Charles (Chuck) in Bogota for several weeks.

 

 

          Ronaldo was born in Cuba but had lived in New York from childhood.  Don't call him Ron.  That's Spanish for rum.  Diminishes the brand, his I mean.  Spanish was his first language and his English was unaccented.  He resembled Pele in looks, build and age; so much so that in Chile and Taiwan we were stopped for autographs.  As my Spanish was still at the training wheels stage, we let him do most of the talking.  Dominic was as plain as Casanova and just as successful where it counted.  Chuck was from Queens and looked like a cross between Goldfinger and Archie Bunker.  His parlance was more Bunkerish.  There’ll be more about him whenever I figure out how to write the office romance-triangle-sabotage episode.

 

          We were a lively bunch who rang up big bills, tipped well and usually closed the place.  With Ronaldo as the only black and I as the only natural blond in the place, we stood out.  The club staff took a shine and on the Friday, there was a bit of commotion as one of the band’s singers, a hot looking Colombian woman, and the guitarist, her protector if not her boyfriend, came up to say hello.  Ronaldo was attracting the attention.  He had a great smile (hey, I’d smile a lot if I looked like that too) and an easy-going, charming manner.

 

          But that’s not the main story.  Ronaldo and the singer had a quick, whispered exchange and we said we’d see them tomorrow.  Saturday night saw us back there but the singer wouldn’t even look our way.  Nor would the guitarist.  No matter.  The band was great as usual and we were enjoying ourselves.  The folks at a nearby table sent us drinks and we returned the favor.  Around 11 the stage guy announced last call.  It seemed that Monday was election day and no alcohol could be served the day before.  We were ready for another 4:00 a.m. jive so were plenty miffed.  There was general milling around while everyone implored the waiters for doubles and triples. But they were having none of it.

 

          The folks who’d sent us the drinks came over and introduced themselves.  There was Victor, around 30, short, curly, light brown hair; a big, barrel-trunked affable guy who seemed blessed in perpetuity with a good mood.  His wife was Valeri.  Either she’d been out in the sun waaay too much or she was in her late 30s.  Dirty blonde hair, probably dyed, but a sleek trim body which her leopard skin, one-piece, form fitting jump suit showed off to great effect.  Marco was Victor’s wingman.  Probably mid 30s, longish black hair, moustache, facial scars, acne and otherwise, and eyes that had that remorseless, penetrating shark’s look even when he was smiling.  Probably the last things a few folks ever saw.  Big, lean and muscular.  Didn’t talk too much and I didn’t want to find out what did the talking for him.  I kept my distance.  His girlfriend, Sonia, was early 20s and one of those Colombian beauties.  Black hair, shoulder length, fresh unblemished skin that was pale olive, perfect teeth, smiled and laughed a lot but not too much, and a sweet, unspoiled demeanour.  There were a couple of others but memory fades.

 

          Ronaldo handled the conversation while my beginner’s Spanish taxed whoever was politest.  Then Ronaldo announced “C’mon, we’re going back to Victor’s place”.  In those days I was up for anything, unless it involved crossing someone like Marco.  We got into their cars and eventually arrived at a lavish mansion.  Victor woke up two of the security guards to let us in.  It was after one but no matter, Victor called a few friends and soon enough a rousing party in their fully furnished basement bar was in swing.  No beer, some wine and one of those sour citrusy libations that can put you down for the count before you know you’ve been hit.  And some Johnny Walker Black which Victor appeared to buy by the case.

 

          I was starting to chat with Victor who spoke some English.  A modest vocabulary but decent accent.  As people do, we switched between English and Spanish.  My Spanish vocabulary was much bigger than Victor’s English but my accent, well, let’s say that John Wayne would have sounded more authentic.  One of Victor’s guests sashayed over and insisted that Victor give us the tour.

 

          Upstairs we went.  We were shown several rooms but the years and the Johnny Walkers have obscured the memory of most.  The kitchen was the size of my apartment back home and grandiose by Architectural Digest standards.  The living room was stunning.  Ceilings that must have been 15 feet high, mahogany everywhere, a chandelier that wouldn’t have been out of place in Versailles, and sofas, armchairs and hassocks made with the skins of creatures that Victor alone put on the endangered list.  And some European paintings whose provenance piqued my curiosity.  Through it all Victor seemed almost bashful, shoulder shrugs, self-deprecating chuckles and an “Oh, this old thing?” tone of voice.  Valeri was rattling off the features in rapid Spanish like she’d committed the inventory to memory.  Marco kept in the background, occasionally sharing a muttered utterance with one of his amigos.

 

          The second floor wasn’t part of the tour so it was back down to the barroom.  Victor poured me another tankard of JW and we resumed chatting.  I was in high spirits, to put a spin on it, and in one of those guileless, take-things-as-they-come moods.  So I complimented Victor of the beauty of his house and asked him what he did.  “Pilot”.  And who do you fly for?, assuming it would be Avianca, the national airline.  “For myself, private flights”.  And where do you fly?  In retrospect I’m astounded that Victor hadn’t shut me up by then.  “Central America, Caribbean, Cuba”.  Finally the peso dropped.  “OK Victor, no preguntas mas”.  He just laughed and we turned to the dance floor.

 

          Valeri urged me on.  I could muster up a rock waltz now and then but the intricate stuff requiring timing and coordination stumped me.  No matter.  Valeri took me in hand just as the JW entered warp speed.  Maybe in Cohen’s bar it instils wisdom; rather the opposite in the southern continent.

 

          The next couple of hours exist only in shards and fragments.  I was on the dance floor with Valeri a long time.  The leopard’s claws contracted but I was conscious enough to know there was a lion keeping watch and something even more dangerous nearby.  Still, that lithe, firm body, well, children might read this blog, right?  At some point my glasses flew across the room.  Dominic was chatting up Sonia.

 

          Finally it was time to leave.  Victor and Valeri drove Chuck and I back.  As we said our goodnights, Valeri reminded me of her name several times, “Valeri, Valeri!” and gave me her number.  Victor may not have been watching as she shoved the paper in my pocket.

 

          The next afternoon when I came to, I struggled to piece together the night’s events.  Kingsley Amis’s hangover description impinged:

“His mouth had been used as a latrine by some small creature of the night, and then as its mausoleum.” 

 

          Finding the paper with Valeri’s number brought a few things back.  I doubted that I’d made out with her but couldn’t swear to much.  I pondered calling her.  Too dangerous given the crowd she ran with and even a gentle guy like Victor would be bound to set an example.  Or have Marco take care of it.  But the promise of that body! 

 

          Calling that day would be too soon, especially if they felt even a small fraction of my aftermath.  I’d call Monday.  Thank her for having us over and play it by ear.  Best to avoid further involvement but tough to resist an invitation to a coffee or whatever.

 

          Monday evening, after pacing a bit, I called.  Busy signal.  And another 5 minutes later.  And again half an hour later.  Ditto an hour later.  Tuesday then.  Same result.  Same deal Thursday.  Again on the weekend.  Once more the next week.  I gave up.  Victor changed the number.  Or Valeri wrote it down wrong.  Or they’d set it up for outgoing calls only.  I gave up.

 

          A month later and it was our last week in Bogota.  One of the folks at the office wanted to stay in touch so he gave me his number.  Then he took the paper back and added a 6 before it.  He explained “All the numbers in Bogota start with a 6 so we never write it down.”

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bogota, cumbia, mausoleum

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Comments

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The song in the cumbia video is “Yo Me Llamo Cumbia”. It’s written as though the cumbia itself is singing and in those days was one of the popular songs.

Can you imagine a more ridiculous phone system that delivers a busy signal on an incompletely dialed number?

I sincerely hope I’ve misremembered all the Colombian names. The colleague names have been changed as I’m still in touch with a couple. The number 6 may also be standing in for some other.
Quite the story: lots of vivid details, despite the JW! Fun read. And the Amis sentence, which I'd never seen before, is just priceless.
Glad you enjoyed it AtHome. I'm still not sure how I would have handled any subsequent encounter with Valeri. I'm also sorry that I never got to thank them for hosting such a blast.
Great story, well told. I love that Amis quote. Perfect.
Thanks blu. The Amis quote is from the brilliant Lucky Jim. I laughed out loud on the bus when I first read it.
What a great story. I'd say as long as you knew where you were and remembered your name, the hangover wasn't nearly as bad as Amis describes. Yuck! That's so vivid, I'm grateful I don't drink Johnnie Walker...I'd have to stop. :)
Your music is always first class. Anyone who can listen to that and keep still has to be dead.
I love the cumbia & the story! With the travel stories for SKC, I was hoping you'd post about your Road Warrior life, and here it is. Well done.
Ah, what might have been! Well told.

Great music.
Would love to read more 10-year road trip stories.

Never met a Columbian I didn't like. Yet.
Fay, I’ve had the sort of hangover you describe. Like waking up and thinking it midnight and I’d better get back to the party. Then realizing it was daylight. And I wasn’t in my own room. And dressed in a Santa suit. With a note pinned on it telling me how, um, amusing I was the night before. And yes, those cumbias are infectious.

Lucy, thanks for the comment. They synapses are firing blanks at the moment so please remind me what SKC is?

Brass, I’ve pondered over the road not taken many a time. Glad you liked the music.

Barry, I found the Colombians most charming, though I’m just as glad I didn’t get to know Marco. The road trip stories will come out fitfully. I’m inexperienced in writing personal accounts. Thanks for the comment.
I enjoyed this story, especially the ending. Sounds almost cute except that I've lived phone things just like that.
Thanks Luminous. I was puzzling over how to wrap it up as it tapers off but once I wrote that sentence, it seemed like an obvious stopping place.
Whew! Those crazy 80s and in Bogota no less!? I am thinking that omitted 6 might be the reason you are still around?
A favorite description: sofas, armchairs and hassocks made with the skins of creatures that Victor alone put on the endangered list.

More!
Great adventure but DANG! about the ending!
dirndl, I’ve often wondered whether I’d have used poor judgment were it not for the want of a 6. As you say, it was the 80s and we all went a little crazy then.

Scarlett, had it not ended as it did, you might never have had the possibility of reading about it.
SKC=Salon Kitchen Challenge. Last week's challenge was travel snacks, this week is unusual Thanksgiving dishes. I hope you write a story for it!
As soon as Victor said, "Pilot," I was thinking, "Shut up!"

Loved the chance to live vicariously in a portion of the world I'll probably never visit. Nice character sketches too.
Thanks Lucy. I do like to cook but have always deferred on Thanksgiving feasts. I'm awaiting you turkey spam concoction.

Cranky, if I'd had my wits about me I would have heeded your advice. I've plenty of material for a Me and My Big Mouth post one of these days.
Great story, lots of color and a dash of suspense. I love the ending, it's a twist I didn't expect.