Sprezzatura

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Ann Nichols

Ann Nichols
Location
East Lansing, Michigan,
Birthday
December 31
Bio
I write, I read, I clean up after people and I worry about things. I have a chronic insufficiency of ironic detachment. My birthday isn't really December 31; it's March 22 but it won't let me change it.

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Salon.com
FEBRUARY 8, 2010 8:50AM

Hard Times? The New "Poverty Chic"

Rate: 17 Flag

 

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 I am now receiving "Town & Country" in the mail because, on a tip from a clever friend, I went to fatwallet.com, and told a few casual lies.  (I could be practicing entertainment law and making $150,000 a year). Based on my fictitiously rarified status, I became a free recipient of the self-described "luxury lifestyle magazine."

If you are not a regular "Town & Country" reader, I will help you to understand the nature of the publication by telling you that most of the advertising is for diamonds (and not the kind that come from Zales in the mall), with a few luxury cars and exclusive resorts hawked along the way. Society weddings are featured in the back of the magazine. The focus is not on celebrity glitz, but on the homes, clothing and entertainment of the kind of Old Money that owns a summer-house on Nantucket, orders curtain fabric from Braunschwig & Fils and stays at The Connaught when in London.

In a recent issue, the Editor's Letter focuses on the effect the recent economic downturn has had on the halcyon days of the, well, the right-up-until-a-year-ago era. She calls 2009 "the year of 'no mores'- no more lavish spending, no more whimsical investments, no more doing things just for the hell of it." On the following page, she comes to her senses and recommends that we consider purchasing as a Christmas gift a $325.00 chinoiserie enamel ring box. This would, I imagine, be a stocking stuffer along with a 2 carat diamond ring from Cartier (to put in the box) , a perfect black truffle, a cashmere dog sweater, and a pair of airline tickets to Anguilla.

During a recent magazine addiction (from which I recovered completely in the Conde Nast wing of the Betty Ford Clinic), I saw this "Poverty Chic" idea again and again.  I have been reading fashion magazines for a long, long, time, and while one might find articles about "Six Outfits Under $100" in media targeted towards suburban moms, teenagers or the socially disenfranchised, the push in high-end publications has always been to buy what was new, regardless of cost, or at least want it enough that it hurt. You might have had to figure out on your own that Payless was selling a pleather version of the Jimmy Choos that blew you away in "Vogue," and make your own, less "luxe" version of Marc Jacobs latest ensemble, but the mission of the magazines was to get you to buy the real deal, from $40.00 lip balm to $10,000.00 necklaces made of raw aquamarine mined by Indonesian virgins. To my astonishment, in my most recent reading I found articles about "shopping your closet" rather than buying new, fashion spreads that included at least one item from Target or H &M, and articles about how to go longer between highlights, blowouts, manicures and other essential personal maintenance.

Although I am not happy that many at the tippy top of the socioeconomic pyramid have lost jobs or taken a bath on investment returns, it is interesting to me to watch the process by which the realities of my daily life have become "chic." We have a more than adequate roof over our heads, and are sufficiently fed and clothed, but we do not eat out regularly, take vacations, buy hardcover books, buy expensive theater or concert tickets, or spend lavishly on holiday gifts. If I need a pair of black flats, I go to Target. My diamonds were inherited, and I buy my hair color in a box at the grocery store, blow out my own hair, and do my own nails. We are completely entertained through a combination of Netflix, free local concerts and tickets to theater performed at local high schools and theaters. I love beautiful things, and admit to having cravings for everything from a Kate Spade bag to a Cooper Mini, but those desires are filed in a brain compartment far away from the realities of my actual life. They are in the toile-covered, expensively scented "if I had a million dollars" compartment, right under paying off all of our debt and giving a huge donation to the local food bank.

We have been, and continue to be, the recipients miraculous generosity from a wide variety of people - my parents, who outfit Sam in Abercrombie before school starts and take us to Florida every year, my mother-in-law who sends me St. John suits and bags, Rob's former employer who sent us on annual vacations to beautiful resorts in the Caribbean in the dead of winter, and friends and family who take us to amazing restaurants and pick up the tab in such a way that we never feel like "poor relations" but like essential and valued company. Those things, for us, are breathtaking breaks from penny-pinching pragmatism. They are not "business as usual," but treasures. Six months ago, when I bought the first new car I have ever owned in my 31 years of driving, I was as pleased and in love with my tiny Hyundai as I would have been had we bought a Mclaren coupe. I still get a little rush every time I see my own tiny, shiny, stubby set of wheels parked in the driveway.

We have made some choices about what we value in this family, some of which mean that I have to consider every purchase from an expensive spice I can only use in one recipe, to a whole album (!) on iTunes.  I worry about the cost of potential orthodontia, prescription medicines,  failing washing machines, and lurking old-house disasters. The fact that this life, which we have lived for many years, is now considered novel and maybe even fashionable, is somewhat surreal. It is, I believe, how many Americans live, and compared to billions of people in this country and in the greater world, we are fabulously wealthy. For families living in real poverty, our big (heated) house with running water, our full refrigerator and our medical insurance would be luxuries. Shopping at Target and coloring one's own hair are not novelties discovered by the editors at "Elle;" they are the realities of average American lives.

I am genuinely not happy that the mighty have fallen; I am not happy when anyone falls. I might wish, though, that there was less media focus on the getting and spending aspects of hard times, and more on the silver linings. This focus on what can be "bought" skews incorrectly the image of what it means to focus less on the material world, whether by choice or necessity. My books come from the library, my toilet paper is generic, and my cashmere used to be my mother's, but despite my inability (and unwillingness) to spend $325.00 on a ring box, I have a sound marriage, a circle of friends and family who could only possibly love me for who I am (since I have nothing else to give them), and a great kid who is already learning how to work and plan to get what we can't easily afford. Our family, and not what we buy, or where we go, is the center of our lives. There isn't a job loss or investment disaster that can change that; long after the market has righted itself, and Biarritz and haute couture  are bullish again, we will continue to have the most luxurious things of all.

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You convinced me to send you vis UPS a bushel od Detroit red-beet donations, bi-monthly. I will recall my charitable 'love' - 'offering' to Roger A. Caras @ president @ American Society For The Prevention Of Cruelty To Animals. He lives on a Maryland farm, and also wrote`

A Dog is Listening.
A Cat is Watching.

Judge Judy makes $250 million.
Eric Holder sews Amish potholders
Farmer don't make prison wage per hour.
Prison inmates make $ 0.93. per hour, ah!
That's more than the organic arugula eater!
We are paying college tuition. *walks out in blizzard for a box of
"Nice 'n Easy."* Great post_r
It's always good to see the positives and appreciate what is really important. It's sometimes fun to see how the other half lives though, just for a laugh. I think great wealth shapes and changes people, just as poverty does. Those of us in between have the luxury of not being dominated by it either way. Interesting post, well written as ever.
Well said. The best things inlife, as the song says, are free.
art - I should never trump the humane society, although I do love to make pickled beets, borscht. roasted beets...okay, send the beets.

joan - no kidding. Worth it, though. Or is that L'oreal? ;)

dear reader - it is interesting, and I really do love beautiful things...this just isn't a cycle of actually buying many of them. On the other hand, it is a cycle of great personal satisfaction.
I love the last line the most here. it says the most.
Sounds like you live a full life, with or without the expensive goods.
Highly rated here.
AtHome - they are, except for brand new books, for which I may always pine a little.

Mission - thanks!
My husband and I have both spent the last 15 years working for non-profits. We knew "poverty chic" from the minute we accepted our positions but wouldn't have it any other way. Your last two paragraphs could have been ones I had written about my own life!

PS- Have you ever read Body & Soul? For the magazine addicted, it's a pretty one.
mamoore - I have seen Body & Soul, but never picked up a copy...I've been trying to cut back since the addiction. I do, however, but things if they are recommended. I'll take any justification I can find.
My mom passes along her copies of Harper's Bazaar, which might as well be "Harper's Bizarre" to me. Don't ask me why my sensible 70-something mom subscribes. The dresses are pretty, the platform shoes are atrocious. Give me Target flats any day of the week.
I love this! So clever.
It sounds like we have our priorities in order: "a sound marriage, a circle of friends, and a family who could only love me for what I am (since I have nothing else to give them)." Wonderfully put.
And I don't buy the whole album (!) on itunes either!
R!
I appreciate your perspective about what is really important, although I am less charitable about the mighty who have fallen.

I also pine for hardcover books. My compromise is that I buy them only occasionally and then give them away. Great post, rated.
Ann: you have all the things that really matter, the ones money could never buy. Sometimes less really is more. Who needs diamonds anyway--I can find just about anything I could ever need at target ( or Meijers!)

Great post.
Ann, You've got a rich life. Town and Country reads like science fiction.
Anne this is absolutely no way to behave. Now you're going to find yourself with all those things money can't buy! They'll rescind your Town and Country.
I loved your tone in this. Just the right mix of dry wit and profundity, with a dash of just plain ordinary. Thank you.
You are rich indeed. An elegant post.
Loved this post. Amen to everything you say. I didn't know you could buy flats anywhere but Target anymore; my gleaming new Suzuki awaits me in the parking lot - and I love it as much as I would the Mercedes of my dreams! R.
Lucy - I get bags of them from a friend who manages a store where they get them for free. I feel, therefore, that I am free to flip through, look at pretty pictures and recycle. I also vote for Target flats.

Kinberly Manky - well i did buy the whole "Vampire Weekend" and "Spoon," but only because I got iTunes cards for Christmas. :)

sophieh - I might be able to get with that particular program; I can justify it if I'm sharing. I have a list of books I really love that I hope, some day, to own in hardcover. I will not, however, be willing to give those away.

Eden - Meijer's is heaven. What would we do without it?

Linda - it does, and I do!

Gail - if they knew who I really was, and that I had written this, they probably would.

Pandora - thanks!
Blue - you can {sigh} buy beautiful Tod's driving shoes for a couple hundred bucks. I, however, am a Target girl.
Fascinating article, Ann. I know no one who's been unaffected by the recent economic downturn, from one end of the wealth spectrum to the other. Making it chic I suppose is one way to survive.
kathy - agreed. They have to keep selling magazines, and I'm sure there's been a frantic scramble to maintain a glamorous aura without alienating their newly-tight-belted readers. As someone with a preiously tightened belt, though, I find it amusing.
No recession of mind or spirit here. Nicely expressed.
Thanks, Miss Scarlett!
I've read plenty of what you write about too. I've been doing shabby chic for years, shopping at consignment or thrift stores, foregoing expensive concerts, etc. although I still get my hair cut and highlighted once every 3 months or so. I wouldn't trust myself to do it on my own. My indulgences have been whittled down to almost nothing. One luxury I still allow myself is to go out with my friends once a month or so but I eat beforehand now and always have a drink at home first.

I took so much for granted for a long time; this feels like going back to my childhood where everything was appreciated and enjoyed.
Ain't no poverty chic in my house, it's called lets see if we can make the mortgage this month and it ain't too chic. But I still have my house, and right now my job with benefits. So I am grateful, seriously grateful. How these magazines survive is astonishing.
A glimpse into a culture that I just do not get. My wedding ring is the band from my husband's mother's divorce!

We are at a point in our lives where we could afford a few luxuries (not diamonds and polo ponies) -- but prefer to luxuriate in the small things that make life richer, rather than rich items. "Fighting" with a friend about who is going to pay for lunch. Chatting with the ladies who work at the volunteer library. Finding a few deals at the library thrift shop out back. Quietly paying for a godchild's dance lessons. Speaking with affection about the 1997 Honda Civic that has never let us down by needing a repair. Helping our son buy his first (very small) home. Splurging on an exquisite art book for our daughter. These are the things I will remember buying. Memories that will retain their value.
emma -amen. It is wonderful to return to that feeling of being happy with "enough" and delighted by what we used to take for granted.

rita - paying the mortgage and having the benefits seem like really big luxuries around here there days, too. I think they survive because they are "aspirational?" (Maybe that's not the right number of "s"es?"

bellwether - that sounds like the good life to me. And how much better it feels to make such things happen for the people we care about when it isn't "business as usual."
I like your style! Excellent writing, too.
Why thank you, M. Mckenzie!