Sprezzatura

Because neurotic is the new black....

Ann Nichols

Ann Nichols
Location
East Lansing, Michigan,
Birthday
December 31
Bio
I write, I read, I clean up after people and I worry about things. I have a chronic insufficiency of ironic detachment. My birthday isn't really December 31; it's March 22 but it won't let me change it.

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Salon.com
APRIL 5, 2011 9:17AM

Mixed Metal

Rate: 25 Flag

I was born in George Washington University Hospital in Washington, D.C., the day that the Queen of the Gypsies died there. Around the same time that one of the assembled  gypsies stole the expensive overcoat of my mother's obstetrician, another took my father aside on the Labor and Delivery floor.  He explained, all dark skin and gold teeth, that the soul of his Queen would enter one of the babies born on that day and in that place. For forty-nine years I have been looking for signs that the baby was me.

Unfortunately, there is not much of the gypsy in my soul, aside from the Hungarian part that makes me cry over Brahms, and anything scored for a cymbalum. I have always been rather more Goth than flamboyant in dress, and am rarely given to spontaneous dancing. The saddest of my Gypsy Failure, for me, is the fact that I have never been a successful jewelry wearer. I envy women who can carry off a pile of necklaces, an arm full of bangles, or an eclectic mix of chunky Turquoise. vintage enamel and deco rhinestones, but I can't. Most metal makes me itch, and in the summer I can't even wear my wedding rings; they are consigned to a safe drawer until the first cool winds of October. I am symbolically available during June, July, August and September, putting my rings back on only for formal events or on days when I am feeling so irresistible that my ring-less self might give false hope to my admirers.

In addition to the itching thing, there is the matter of cultural programming. I was raised by a woman who objected to piercings in general, and who, when I suggested that I might add a second hole in one ear, reminded me that Jaqueline Kennedy would never have done such a thing. She tends towards a tasteful assortment that includes her wedding band, a signet ring and something colorful and cheerful because she used to work with children. I also internalized the rule that one "does not wear mixed metals;" my mother's friends wore all gold or all silver, and one lamented the inheritance of a beautiful platinum ring that "didn't go" and must be re-plated or put into storage. In the early 80s, this sense that there was an 11th Commandment involving the wearing of jewelry was confirmed by the "Color Me Beautiful" system which divided us all into "seasons," and told us that if we wanted to look out best, we must wear the metal that suited our assigned color scheme. As an "Autumn," I was told that I should, in addition to dressing in mustard, pumpkin and brown, stick to gold jewelry.

All the years that I was a jewelry minimalist for reasons of epidermis and culture, I continued to envy those who could pile it on and make it look natural. I was on a moot court team with a woman who cried when our coach (a Uniform Commercial Code professor with newly planted hair plugs) told her that she must remove the pile of delicate gold bangles she always wore, because they would be distracting when we competed. She said that she had worn them since her confirmation, that she never took them off, that it would throw off her performance if she was without them. He made her take them off. I considered what it would be like to have jewelry that meant so much, that was never removed, that represented not mere fashion, but part of her identity. Honestly, I was jealous.

In my declining years, I have discovered that the only things that really matter to me (and I do mean material "things" and not "things" in a way that encompasses people or ideas) are those that have some history and some meaning. I live in an old house which I believe to be inhabited by ghosts seen only by Teddy the Cat. I am thrilled to receive an ancient metal coin bank that belonged to my husband's grandfather, and I routinely rescue maudlin and inept watercolors sold at garage sales, because someone worked hard on them, and loved them. It occurred to me one day, contemplating a pile of inherited and gifted jewelry that some of it had real meaning to me, and, quite possibly, supernatural and talismanic properties. It wasn't all silver, or all gold, it did not "match" in any way, but it was part of my identity. If I could sort it out and wear it all, I would not only be breaking the Jewelry Curse, but possibly channeling the Queen of the Gypsies, who I imagine in her prime wearing stacks of clinking bangles, ropes of beads and amulets around her neck, and rings on most of her fingers. (I think I'm mixing her up with "Carmen," but surely you'll indulge me in a little cross-cultural stereotyping, here).

The one I always wear, strung on a leather cord so that it cannot possibly make me itch, is a triangular Buddha given to me by my father. It is a rich, reddish metal; possibly bronze or copper. He brought it back from a trip to China years ago, a perk of being a professor of Chinese Humanities. He had forgotten about it until I began to speak often about my increasing interest in Buddhism. He gave it to me, still in the gaudy pink plastic box given to him by the seller, and told me that he thought it was old, probably valuable, sold by someone in desperate need of money before the economic boom that characterizes modern China. I wear it all the time now, because it reminds me to be "present," and because it was a gift from someone I love dearly; I feel his presence when the Buddha feels cold against my chest, or falls heavily against me after a sudden move.I don't mind that it usually doesn't show; it would be the very antithesis of all that is Buddhist to flaunt my interest.

The next one is a gold chain with two gold charms. One is a Maltese cross that belonged to my paternal grandmother, a Roman Catholic. I wear it because it was hers, because I think it's beautiful, and because in my muddled faith life there has always been room for the meaning of the cross. It hangs along with a tiny, gold heart given to me by my maternal grandmother. She bought it in Dartmouth, England where we were visiting family friends, and had luck with the horses. She used her winning from the track to buy the heart for me at a little jewelry store near the Angel Pub, and it reminds me, always, of that day and of her warmth.

Highest up, on a silver chain is a tiny, enameled four-leaf clover that also belonged to my paternal grandmother. She didn't have much, an orphan raised in severe poverty by relatives who saw in her no valua beyond another pair of working hands. She was rescued by her older brother and her aunt and eventually became the first woman to graduate with a Chemistry degree from The University of New Hampshire. It was mostly perseverance and brains that got her through the years of constant cold and hunger, reading "Penny Dreadfuls" by match light in the outhouse to avoid punishment, but I also like to think that Helen Murphy had a little of the Luck of the Irish. Her clover reminds me of both duty and serendipity.

So they are not at all fashionable, these ill-assorted necklaces of mixed metal that I wear most of the time. They get tangled, they make me itch, and they have not, thus far, transformed me into a Gypsy (or, for or that matter, a Tramp or a Thief). They stand for the proposition that I am "over" following a certain kind of conformist standard, and that I am willing to scratch a little in exchange for the sense that I am protected in some way by my mixed expression of ancestor worship, religious affiliation and New Age-Eastern Mystical-HooDoo. It may not help, but it probably can't hurt. And if it does, I have a tube of prescription steroid cream in the bathroom.

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Oh, I love this. And I'm first.~r
I too envy women who can haphazardly throw on jewelry and make it look effortlessly chic. I put a necklace on and then take it off. Earrings on. Then take them off. Too flashy. (Hope your peepers get better soon!)
Yup. Jackie would have never put a second hole in her hear.

Words to live by.

:-) / R
Were you writing this on 200%?? I have a lot of jewelry, collected over the years. I even had a business on Ebay where I sold all sorts of things. My favorite pieces all have a story. There is very little that I now actually wear. There used to be, but it's just too much trouble any more. This was fun.
Loved this piece. Am still trying to get over the no mixed metals rule. You inspire me. RRR
Madam Annie, Palms Read. Has a ring to it. A bangle or two, too.
My husband is a jeweler by trade and you would think I would be dripping in diamonds - not so much. I loved the idea of inhabiting the gypsy soul. Great post.
This was great. I'm a big costume jewlery wearer and also have pieces near and dear to me - but what struck me the most about your post is how you "save" amateur watercolors for sale. I feel the same way, though I haven't gone so far as to rescue one from oblivion yet. Glad you reposed this, since it's new to me - wonderful.
That's funny you wear a Buddha necklace. I often do too. I think there must be a Gypsy Queen in you somewhere.
your tag shocked me - i would have sworn i'd never missed anything you posted. and since this is now in my fav top 10, i would have been unknowingly bereft if you hadn't been nearly blinded and forced to shuffle around in the annie archives.

great, terrific, fabulous piece, it and you and your necklaces. i hear van morrison singing in the background from "into the mystic": i wanna rock your gypsy soul. and all along i've thought he was talking to me. shoulda known. ;)
I never mix metals. It's either Metallica or Motley Crue. Never both. (How come my keyboard doesn't have an umlaut?)
Maybe you could try lots of long, flowing scarves like Isadora Duncan.
Must have missed this the first time. Thought it might be a music post! I too have a hard time with "mixed metals". Like wearing white after Labor Day! Great piece.
Great story -- well told as always. Tho I am no lover of jewelry, I am at least aware enough to understand there are many associations with jewelry besides the obvious. For instance, the woman you described on moot court had much in common with so-called primitives.

Native Americans were content to carry all the things they considered of value -- a bright metal object, a natural gemstone -- or like you, a talisman valued because it was a gift from or a remembrance of an ancestor -- in a small leather bag sometimes referred to as a medicine pouch.

Black women in certain parts of the South -- in many ways the Gypsies of their time and place -- used to carry a "nation's sack". Blues fans will be familiar with that term from "Come On In My Kitchen", one of the most famous songs of legendary guitarist Robert Johnson:

"You know she's gone, she won't come back
I done took that last nickel out her nation's sack
You better come on, in my kitchen
'Cause it goin' to be rainin' outdoors"

It wasn't just the theft that caused Johnson to lose his woman and bemoan his fate -- for a man to touch a woman's nation sack was an unforgivable sacrilege. For more on the fascinating history of the nation's sack, see this:

http://www.luckymojo.com/nationsack.html
A spectacular post in so many ways Ann.
and I love it.
With or without hair plugs, UCC profs' only concern should be keeping students awake during lectures.

The Queen of the Gypsies you mentioned -- her name was Cindy and she ran a small clothing boutique off DuPont Circle. Surprised me, too. The threat of Gypsy curses kept shoplifting to a minimum.
My personal taste in jewelry is authentic but few pieces, and I think my sisters and I have taken on our mother's innate sense of wearing jewelry that falls into place. I don't buy things unless they have meaning to me - thus my jewelry buying stage is a past history. I like white and pinkish gold woven in elegant bracelets but I also do not favor gold and silver together at the same time. Glad you reposted and hope your eyes feel better soon, Ann.

♥R
The rules are for the lazy. Mix it up all you want! I certainly do.

And I am having a good eye day today. Hope you do too!
Love it. It's so cool to think about the objects we love and what they meant to others before they were ours.
"my mixed expression of ancestor worship, religious affiliation and New Age-Eastern Mystical-HooDoo"--good mix; shows your mettle.
So sweet that you wear the Buddha your father gave to you. A lot of good karma there! I've always envied women who are able to accessorize with style. I find it intimidating, and stick to classic timeless jewels (not that I have many). But a colorful, well placed scarf does tend to bring the gypsy out in me--definitely the easiest way to add flair. ; )