bbd

bbd
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Dallas, Tejas
Birthday
May 15
Title
dilettante
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A sometimes artist and photographer, sometimes I write too.  

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JULY 8, 2008 3:44PM

is it worth the cost?

Rate: 8 Flag

had friends over for dinner

We had friends over for dinner last night. They're a lovely couple and we've enjoyed their company for many years. We even spent a week in Tokyo with them last January in a hands across the waters business association meeting. Also, he's the outgoing president of the board of directors for my bride's business, the national association that she's the CEO of.

So you would think it would be worth it to make a nice dinner. I splurged a bit.

The picture above shows about $80.00 worth of microplaned black truffle that went into the wine reduction sauce for the filet mignon—the center portion chateaubriand section of the tenderloin.

I freelanced the reduction a bit. It turned out great—I think it was one of the best, most complex, flavorful sauces I've ever made. It was really good. Everyone was happy.

The reduction

2 cups red wine (I would use a good cabernet—maybe not a 2001 Napa, but one you would enjoy drinking) 

1 large shallot, minced

1 large carrot, scrubbed and diced

3 mushrooms, diced

1 dried chipotle pepper, left intact

2 tsp olive oil

1 tsp butter

a few sprigs of rosemary

In a nonstick pan, heat the olive oil and butter to shimmering, add the carrots and saute for two minutes. Add the shallots and continue for another minute. Add the mushrooms and render out and reduce some of the liquid released from the mushrooms. Add the wine and reduce heat to allow the wine to steam, but not boil. Reduce the liquid to less than 1 cup. Strain through fine mesh, clean pan with a paper towel and return the liquid to the pan. Reserve chipotle pepper. Continue to reduce, again with the liquid just steaming, until you get to 2 or 3 tablespoons. Be careful, the reduction quickens as it reduces. Set aside the reduction to use when making the sauce. 


 

 

The sauce

1/3 cup wine (same as above)

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup beef stock

1 medium shallot, minced

2 T rosemary leaves

1 large truffle, microplaned

(reserved) chipotle pepper

2 T unsalted butter, kept well chilled 

Once the meat has left the saute pan and is either resting or in the oven to finish cooking, judge how much fat is left rendered. Return pan to high heat. Add a small amount of unsalted butter if there is not enough fat to saute the minced shallot. Saute shallot until edges begin to color and it becomes translucent. Add  wine to deglaze pan to release the fond. Using a wooden straight ended spoon, scrape the bits of fond off the pan so that it becomes part of the sauce. Add stocks. Add rosemary. Taste a small amount of the liquid to judge how much bite there is from the chipotle. If you can't detect much of its smokiness, add reserved chipotle without breaking the skin, keep intact. Continue stirring and reducing until the sauce will coat and stay on the back of a spoon. It should be about 1/2 cup, more or less. Remove chipotle and discard. Add the reduction. Add truffle shavings. Reduce another minute. Taste and add fresh pepper if desired. Offheat, add the chilled butter and stir to incorporate.

Spoon a tablespoon of the sauce onto the plate. Plate the rest of the dinner and place the meat on top of the sauce. Add sauce to top of meat, using all the sauce to distribute evenly.

Get a long lingering kiss from your partner after the dinner.

The rest of the dinner included haricot verts blanched and then sautéed in sesame oil with slivered onions and precooked applewood smoked bacon crumbles and my renowned creamy mashed potatoes. I considered at one point just to add the shaved truffle on top of the potatoes when served, but instead decided to incorporate into the sauce. I'm glad I did it that way.

So, it was an indulgence to use an ingredient worth more in weight than gold, but these were good friends and we had a lovely time and a lovely dinner together. 

 

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Comments

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That looks like a very special dish indeed! I'll save for future use and save up my pennies for one truffle. We'd also love to see the recipe for your delicious sounding mashed potatoes.
Barry, you can cook for me anytime, truffles or no. Yum.
Yum yum yum! We've been experimenting with truffle oils (black and white) and truffle butter. On Sunday, my boyfriend made filets mignons and we just put the black truffle butter on top, and it was SO DELICIOUS. It brings that amazing foresty savory taste. Your sauce sounds wonderful, but if you're in the mood for something that takes no effort and is a lot cheaper, the truffle butter, which has real truffle chunks in it, goes for $8 for 3 oz.
LeC, for my 50th birthday, we had 25 of our friends for dinner at a wonderful European style brasserie here in Dallas, Jeroboam Urban Brasserie. One of the three entrée choices was Truffle Chicken. They used both truffle oil and little bits of embedded truffle breakings in the 1/2 chicken. Once the waiter placed the dish in front of you, and the aroma wafted over you, then into you, you felt like you wanted to kiss the person sitting next to you. Jeroboam is sadly closed now.

I should blog about that dinner, it was amazing--a wonderful present from my bride. And it marked the transition from the before 50 title of "trophy husband" to the now better described "Eve's cabana boy."
you had me at '$80.00 worth of microplaned black truffle'
If nothing else ever comes of my association with Open Salon, the additions I've been able to make to my recipe database will have been worth every moment.

Thanks for giving me bullets to use the next time I need to break out the "very special dish" guns, Barry.
Come to my house in sunny Florida any time you want? The meal sounds LOVELY!
Food porn, I love it! One of the things we do so well here at OS.

Whether or not it's worth it depends on what you think of black truffles; musky scented nodules that serve as a passport to gustatory nirvana, or "did something crawl in the grocery bag and die?". I'm soundly in the first camp, so yeah Barry, it's definitely worth it.

Just for the sauce and reduction alone. You Sir, know how to wing it.

But I gotta ask - how far done did you cook the meat (please, don't break my heart on this one)?
John, here's what I do with a filet mignon (it works with other cuts and species too):

preheat rimmed baking sheet in hot 450° oven
for a 1.5" to 2.0" thick center cut filet
All-Clad large 14" straight-sided saute pan
rub olive oil (or avocado oil--it doesn't smoke as much) into each side of the filet
sprinkle with kosher salt and cover with freshly cracked black pepper
in a hot pan, sear first side for 3 minutes, no more. turn and sear second side for 2.5 minutes
place filet on preheated rimmed sheet in oven and roast for 6 minutes for rare, 7 minutes for medium rare.
remove and let rest while you finish the deglazing and sauce preparation.

John, ours are always done bright pink in the center--rare to medium rare. The searing on each side keeps in the moist juicy flavor, especially on such a lean cut as a filet mignon.
Barry, I want your filet and I want it NOW!
gosh, barry, I was getting ready to post the recipe for "Aunt Bev's Jell-O Salad" but fear it is far too humble to co-exist in a gastronomic realm that includes your red wine truffle reduction. ah well..
A good meal with a nice wine is something I have no problem splurging on. There are things I want to save money on, but a good meal isn't one of them.

I have exactly zero problem with spending a couple hundred bucks on a meal if it's a good one.

Beats the hell out of buying another pair of shoes or another tie!
There is a time for filetdu barry and a time for Jello Salad.

Just please not during the same meal.
Seriously, though.

I do not like mushrooms. Their earthy flavor leaves me wondering why I just ate dirt.

Would I like truffles if I could indeed find them in the Hinterlands where I live?
bbd, you should definitely blog about that dinner! i want to know more.

Have you ever worked with demi-glace/veal stock? My boyfriend (as you can tell, it's mostly him who cooks) made this red wine shallot sauce with veal stock once, and then braised some steaks in it, it was to die for. I think if that were combined with truffles, I might die of yum.

I really loved this NPR piece on Escoffier and veal stock, which is how i discovered the stuff. I think you might like it too.
ePriddy:

Absolutely not. I like mushrooms but I find truffles way too earthy. They tend to take over the taste of everything they're put on.

I'm sure most people would object. But if you don't like mushrooms, you absolutely will not like truffles.
Barry, my heart is happily intact. That didn't look like a recipe from a man who would overcook his meat, but you never can tell. As Keenan Wynn could've said (but didn't as far as I know) in Dr. Strangelove, "There's pre-verts all around us".

You handle the meat pretty much like I do, my secret weapon (although it won't be now, I guess) is a little fresh-ground nutmeg after the pepper (builds a little background depth to the pepper's high notes)and let the meat come up to room temperature to relax before you cook it I know that will make the germophobes cringe, but I figure that the microbes don't really get a chance to multiply on anything but the outer surface and the quick sear takes care of that.

Elizabeth, you definitely won't like truffles. Earthy doesn't begin to describe them. A good truffle always reminds me of a forest floor in summer after a quick rain, but that's just where it starts.
Thanks for saving me some scratch.

I will wait until they magically appear before me rather than hunting them down. (Although they grow here in NC!)
Worth the cost, yes. For friends, loved ones and sometimes oneself. I think one last ingredient went into the dinner, one that was richer than the reduction and truffle. The one that makes less expensive foods become great meals. You obviously have added love to the umami.
I agree Stellaa, truffles and scrambled eggs = soul food.

Paxton, thank you so much for that thought. I really like the love-umami description.