Where do we go from here? Larger version of image above found here.

There's a small place that I love—a place where I would return even though I've visited several times before. The Capulin Volcano National Monument in northeastern New Mexico is well away from major highways or population centers. I doubt it's ever crowded and it takes less than a few hours to hike the rim of the extinct volcano and soak up the glorious vistas. From the highest lip on the east side of the rim you can see into four states. In 2007, the latest reporting year for the number of visitors, the monument only had 49,000 guests, which is well below average for national monuments and perfect for a solitary, contemplative walk.  

The view from state highway 64

The late 1800s were a time of homesteading across the southwest, including the private acquisition of public lands. Yellowstone and Yosemite were early targets for the nascent conservation movements. Manifest Destiny was still the rampant expansionist philosophy, yet at the same time conservationists began to influence government thinking about preserving public spaces.

In December 1890, Land Inspector W. D. Harlan, of nearby Folsom, New Mexico, suggested to his supervisors that Capulin Mountain and surrounding area be set aside from homesteading because the "mountain is a great natural curiosity."  Upon receipt of the letter the Secretary of the Interior ordered a review of the proposal. In 1891, the General Land Office of the Department of the Interior withdrew Capulin Mountain (later to be known as Capulin Volcano) "from any settlement, entry or other disposition under any of the public land laws" because it was such a perfect example of an extinct North American volcano.

In 1916, President Wilson issued the proclamation declaring the mountain a national monument to "…preserve the scenic and scientific integrity of Capulin Mountain National Monument."

Homer Farr, the second custodian of the park, used a mule-drawn plow to grade a road to the rim of the volcano, completing it in 1925. Farr was custodian of the monument for 32 years arriving in the Capulin area in 1907 before New Mexico became a state in 1912. He ran a general store, bought and sold land and became the postmaster. He was a major supporter of the preservation of the volcano and was selected as custodian in 1923. With Civil works projects funding in the mid 30s, Farr hired local men to widen and maintain the road. It was under Farr's tenure that the rim and vent trails were built.

After paying a modest fee at the base of the volcano, you're allowed to drive up the narrow road that circles the cinder cone as it rises. Once at the parking area on the west side of the cinder cone lip, you have a choice to descend on the vent trail, or climb the rim trail. It's best to do both, but I recommend doing the vent trail first as it will help you get accustomed to hiking at a relatively high elevation. The parking lot is at 7200 feet above sea level and the vent trail only descends 105 feet to the interior base. The rim trail is steep and will tax your legs and lungs, though it's only a mile in circumference. At 8,182 feet at it's highest point, you'll feel the burn, but it's a good fresh pain as the air is so pure.

Looking down into the vent base. It's a bit steeper than the photo suggests.

Let's go up!

Walk briskly! You'll feel it first in your quadriceps, then in your lungs as you gulp down quantities of air. Make sure you bring a bottle of water, it's easy to get dehydrated at higher elevations.

Steep!

My latest visit was near dawn on a cold October morning. The morning dew had frozen on the creosote and scrub oaks along the trail.

The region that encompasses northeaster New Mexico and a bit beyond is known as the Raton-Clayton Volcanic Field. It's not active, and hasn't been for a long time. The early Raton Phase at the western edge of the Field was active from 9 to 3 million years ago. The Clayton Phase, at the eastern edge was active between 3 and 1 million years ago. The Capulin Phase began about 1 million years ago at the center of the Field. Capulin Volcano last erupted 60,000 years ago, when mammoths and giant bison still roamed the surrounding plains. 

When you reach the first summit at the southeastern edge of the rim you'll see something rare on the continent—a shield volcano. The most recognized shield volcano is the one that rises from the ocean floor to form the Big Island of Hawaii, ending at the twin peaks of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. 

Sierra Grande

Sierra Grande rises to 8,700 feet above sea level and is 2,200 feet above its surrounding plain. It's estimated to be about 1 million years old and is the largest volcano in the region. In the view above, you can see the lava flows from Capulin, now covered in late fall grasses, extending out toward Sierra Grande. In the view below, you can see the shield volcano rising to the west long before any of the other extinct volcanoes come into view.

Approaching Sierra Grande and the Raton-Clayton Field

A view to the west near the first summit on the Rim Trail with the photographer's shadow in that ubiquitous pose.

A welcome resting spot with spectacular views. The bench is made from recyclable materials and they have the charred missing chunk in the visitors center at the entrance to the monument. It seems the metal support was irresistible to a passing thunderstorm and got hit by lightening.

And now the gift:

Original size of this one is here.

We have moments of serendipitous beauty at times. I love the gift from Kurt Vonnegut that we ought to stop when we find some epiphany and just say out loud, "If this isn't nice, I don't know what is."

I'm passing the gift along. I hope you can say it too, with Kurt and me.

Dedicated to the one that is able to see the beauty. You know who you are. And then to all the rest of you, thanks for coming by.

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