Two weeks ago, the New Orleans Saints played the Minnesota Vikings for the National Football Conference Championship. My wife and I couldn’t watch the game alone – we didn’t want to bear the burden of defeat or experience the thrill of victory alone. Near kickoff, we drove the city’s streets just before the game started and they were eerily void of people just as I remembered them when I returned to the city days after Hurricane Katrina struck. We arrived at the uptown home of some friends, just blocks from quarterback Drew Brees’s home, and nervously ate the food and drink of this town. Our host had made a pot of gumbo, using a chicken he had fried and a dark roux. I separated yolks from egg whites, poured in gin, heavy cream, simple syrup, and orange flower water into my cocktail shaker and shook like crazy for a full minute to confect a round of Ramos gin fizzes, a drink invented in New Orleans more than a century ago. Despite our efforts, things looked grim in the fourth quarter. With the score tied and very little time on the clock, the Vikings had the ball, were in field goal range, and could take the game with a decent field goal kick. But we sipped our fizzes for good luck and a flag was thrown against the Vikings for something called “twelve men in a huddle,” an unlikely mishap for the polished team, driving the Vikings back beyond field goal range, which forced overtime, where the Saints won possession on the coin toss and took the game with a field goal.
We ran out onto the streets and our cries of “Who Dat!” – the cry of the Saints fan - were answered back with who dats from neighbors engaged in their own celebrations. We drove home through streets rich and poor that were now filled with revelers spilling out of bars or screaming from their front porches. We honked at cars, families, and jovial street mobs to share our joy. When we got home, the honking, yelling, and fireworks (or were they gunshots?) were audible for hours. The New Orleans Saints had defied expectations and were going to the Super Bowl for the first time ever.
The winning field goal occurred in New Orleans’s emblematic Superdome, a giant concrete spaceship that landed in New Orleans' business district a few decades ago and which had been, up until Hurricane Katrina, principally indentified as the home field of the hapless Aints, as the Saints were known during their early history of defeat and disappointment. The city of New Orleans has, as observed recently in the New York Times, been in a simultaneous struggle since the team’s inception. It lost two hundred thousand residents during the team’s first four decades, huge areas of the city were surrendered to blight and crime, the city lost almost all of its big businesses, and racial divides cleaved the city’s residents and divided the mostly black city from its mostly white suburbs. And this was all before Hurricane Katrina when the Superdome became the site of one of America’s biggest failures when desperate, mostly black citizens, abandoned in a city which had succumbed to catastrophic flooding, due more to poorly maintained and engineered levees and infrastructure than to the storm’s might, gathered for the world to see. Rumors of murders and rapes among the masses in the Superdome circulated quickly. By the time FEMA and the National Guard arrived and evacuated the entire city, the Superdome was no longer a sports field, it was a memorial to America’s persistent failure to address racial inequality, human misery and civic collapse.
I have beat this drum for almost five years since the storm, trying to tell anyone who will listen that the things that they saw after Hurricane Katrina, the things that disgusted and disappointed them, were not created by but were exposed by the storm and that similar ugliness existed not far from their homes, in forgotten cities from Richmond, California to Camden, New Jersey, and everywhere in between. And I still insist that New Orleans’ recovery is a bellwether for American Democracy and, as New Orleans goes – good or bad – so goes the country. All of this is why it is difficult for me to say that a winning field goal kick in a football game has changed things at all. But it has. The kick brought the citizens of this city and region together in a way that the common experience of displacement and loss following Hurricane Katrina had failed to do.
Whether you are listening to the black talk radio station, WBOK, where hosts are apoplectic about the possibility of the election of a white mayor, as seems likely, or WWL radio, whose white flight listeners seem to never tire of calling in to disparage the city, everyone comes together about The Saints. The Times Picayune, where the politics of the “white vote” and the “black vote” have been written about a lot recently, ran the headline, “New Orleans Saints fans build color-blind bonds in Who Dat Nation,” with the lede,
In a place where music and food can break down racial barriers but true dialogue between the groups is rare, nearly universal joy over the Saints' newfound success has created a new common language and solidified a shared identity.
The entire region coalesced this week in mass, populist, anti-corporate mania when the NFL tried to claim that “Who Dat” was the intellectual property and registered trademark of the NFL and threatened several New Orleans retailers who sold Who Dat merchandise. After receiving nothing but bad press and condemnation, summed up by a smart blogger’s exclamation, in perfect French, “Hey NFL, Bleaux Me,” the NFL backed down and local t-shirt shops sold out of anything with the word “Who Dat” on it.
Hurricane Katrina exposed our deepest divides and the “recovery,” such as it is, has in many ways only heightened the balkanization of this town and region. Things are not “better” here. The murder rate remains out of control, the city’s coffers are empty, the levees remain questionable, the wetlands that buffer the city from hurricanes are deteriorating, and the viability of many of the city’s neighborhoods is very much in doubt. But The Saints have, at least momentarily, brought us together and given people a sense of common purpose.
After the game, on Monday, or Tuesday, or Wednesday, or whenever the postgame celebration or sad hangover of loss ends, we all know that the city and region will still be laden down with problems and animosities. But on Sunday, the streets of New Orleans will empty again and people will huddle around televisions in the company of fellow Saints fans, people of all stripes including old school Who Dats and recent convert New Dats, like my wife and me. Our team, like our city and its people, are the underdogs in the game. So we will eat gumbo and hope. And if we are lucky, if we get another good coin toss after all of the bad ones for so many years, we will drive home again watching strangers hug in the streets, seeing everyone joyous and together, without regard for the usual divides, and the city can shake off some small part of what it struggles with and what has so fractured it. As with all the tragedy here, if some measure of unity and recovery can happen in New Orleans, it’s possible anywhere in this country
So forget the Cowboys, these Aints turned Saints are America’s team. Root for them and root for yourselves.


Salon.com
Comments
New Orleans is a great city (visited a few months before Katrina and had a great time).
Hope all is well. Great to "see" you again.
Best of luck next Sunday. The Saints are my heartpick, for sure.
- CMc
Laissez les bon temps rouler!
They idea that the NFL thought they could own the hallowed "Who Dat?" is utterly ridiculous...geaux Saints...xx A
They idea that the NFL thought they could own the hallowed "Who Dat?" is utterly ridiculous...geaux Saints...xx A
...the Colts are going to win. Which, because of the outsized generosity of the Manning family, may be even better for New Orleans.
I am by no means a football fan let alone a sports fan but I want the Saints to kick ass whenever the game is (I don't even know) precisely because they are the NEW ORLEANS Saints. It's my sincere hope that the publicity around the game will help folks to remember that some folks still aren't home yet...
New Orleans was a hell-hole before Katrina, it was a hell-hole during Katrina. It is rather less a hell-hole now because it has NOT been fully rebuilt.
And the Big Lie that the people of New Orleans were abandoned is just that, a big, fat lie, perpetrated by racist progressives. It is a known fact that, in any emergency or disaster, it is the FIRST RESPONDERS that need to handle the situation. The Federal government was not, is not, and never will be a FIRST RESPONDER. In the case of New Orleans, the first responder was its black mayor, it's largely black city government, the locals who made stupid, incompetent decisions about canals, gates & levees over many years while lining their pockets. The New Orleans police officers, most of the blacks, who left town in large numbers.
Somehow George Bush was being blamed for the roving, armed black thugs who roamed the streets of New Orleans in the days after Katrina. The logic of THAT blame-game always escaped me, as it would ANY thinking person. In fact, I recall it was the case that some of the black NO cops who didn't leave town became part of the roving, armed thugs.
One final rule of thumb: NEVER rebuild a city located in Hurricane Alley that lies BELOW SEA LEVEL! That this was even considered & approved reveals the incompetence, racism and stupidity of those who claim it's a good idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQwMutNyCZs
My dad will be 77 on March 5th. For the past 42 football seasons, he had been a true blue Saints fan. Through all the loss and pain, Dad's loyalty never wavered. We were all so thrilled in 1987 when, after 20 years, the Saints finally had a winning season. The first time they went to the playoffs, we were over the moon.
This season is what Saints fans like my dad have lived for. That he is getting to see them in the Super Bowl in his lifetime means so much. When they won the championship, I jumped up, hugged my husband, burst into tears and dove for the phone to call my dad, who lives on the west side of the state two and a half hours away. My mom answered the phone and suddenly I was that six year old little girl again, who just wanted to talk football with her father. All I could manage to choke out was, "Where's my daddy?" Hearing him on that phone so happy and proud of his Saints was almost as great as the win itself.
I wish I didn't have to work on Monday morning because I would make that trip to watch the game with Dad Sunday night. I guess I'll just have to settle for another phone call.
Win or lose on Sunday, Billy is right, this city has come together in a way that has been just short of miraculous. I've only lived here just over a year now but what a great time to be here. The city is electrified; black and gold is the uniform of the day every day. Some things in this city truly do suck but the Saints are helping to bridge a gap that has seemed like a huge abyss for a long time. I'm proud to be a lifelong member of the Who Dat Nation.
Who Dat?!?!?!
I pledge allegiance to the Saints, and 2 the great city of New Orleans,
And 2 the Super Bowl, for which we'll win,
One city, below C level, under God,
With Mardi Gras and alcohol for all.
Amen.
The Saints are our Saviours, and we DEARLY DEARLY love them.
She had grown up in a New Orleans housing project shamefully named Desire. Desire had been constructed in an isolated area northwest of greater New Orleans, bordered by industrial canals and railroad tracks. Pinch often recounted her nights as a young child lying on the floor under a matted blanket listening to gunshots in the night. Desire had been built in the late 40s over the Hideaway Club where Fats Domino had played his first gigs. Pinch swore she could hear Fats sing “My Blue Heaven” just for her. As Pinch’s childhood tumbled forward, she learned survival skills. By the age of twelve, she had tried just about every street drug going and stole to keep from going hungry, acquiring the nickname Pinch. She would have been doomed to a child’s death but for the help of an aged aunt. Pinch pulled herself up, finished high school, and made it through college by working sometimes two shifts as a housekeeper in seedy hotels that bordered the Ninth Ward. A city auditor once asked her why she hadn’t worked in the Lafayette Square District or the famous 625 St. Charles suites. “You could have paid for a Ph.D. with the tips alone.” And she replied: “Well, I guess ‘dis sista just feeling mo’ secure wid da brothers. Ozanam Inn be my place, homeless peoples and all.” Then she rubbed his arm. The poor guy broke out in a sweat, brushed his thinning hair back with an aged-spotted trembling hand, and looked at me for intervention. Later I asked Pinch why she’d stuck it to the auditor; she shrugged her shoulders and replied: “I guess just every once and a while I have to remind myself where I come from. Pride has many forms, love.” Pinch had overcome. She was the bravest person I ever knew.
Elijah Rising