Surreal is the only word I can think of to describe it. We are here at Adamama, a community dedicated to sustainable lifestyle, agriculture and recycling in the northern Negev -- just 20 minutes, if that, across the field from the Gaza Strip. We should be able to walk on over. Or invite our friends to visit for tea. And to get a much-needed job. But no. Israel has constructed its ugly walls of intimidation between these two peoples, creating a distance much further than physical reality.
We arrived yesterday afternoon – the seven of us who had been held up at the Taba crossing from Egypt into Israel. (I learned today, btw, that of all the crossings we could have tried, Taba is apparently the hardest to get through – more difficult, even, than Ben Gurion in Tel Aviv. Perhaps it’s because it’s situated so close to Eilat, the plush resort on the Red Sea that offers such an obscene contrast to the realties of the Gaza Strip we had just left.)
After spending the night at a hostel in Eilat (a quirky place decorated ubiquitously with reindeer, of all things), we embarked on a long, hot, sweaty day of travel to our new abode – first a bus ride to Beer Sheva, then a half-hour taxi ride to Adamama. The moshav (the Hebrew term for this Israeli agricultural settlement of individual farms) feels like a return to Camp Fire Girl days…dormitory-style living (except this time in big, open-sided tents, while sleeping on old mattresses that I am pretty sure are infested with something), communal eating (all vegan meals) and just a few shower stalls and toilets (using compost “technology”) for our large, rag-tag group.
The breeze here is wonderful, though, and we even have our own “Internet café” – a few ratty sofas outside on the dirt, with a couple of outlets that we compete for viciously.We were up at 8:30 this morning and off to the Erez crossing, the only pedestrian exit point from the Gaza Strip into Israel. Palestinians who have a permit to work in Israel or those with permits allowing them to receive medical treatment or to visit immediate family in prisons use this crossing when it is open for pedestrian travel. Currently, the crossing is only open for foreigners and for the few Palestinians with a residence permit for another country or a permit to receive medical treatment in Israel – which means very few Palestinians are allowed into Israel (at the same time that Israeli law grants automatic citizenship to any Jew who immigrates there – even when they have no historic tie there). The Israelis were quite unprepared for what hit them. Codepinkers are hard enough to deal with, but this time we had with us an amazing collection of kindred spirits:
Anarchist clowns: In addition to “Patch” Adams (an American physician, social activist, citizen diplomat and professional clown who organizes volunteers from around the world to bring the medicine of laughter to orphans and others), we were joined by members of the Smile Liberation Front – clowns from the Middle East who are working to advance justice through subversion. Dressed in military uniforms but wearing goofy noses and glasses and blowing horns, they turn on its head the serious, stern demeanor so carefully cultivated by the IOF (Israel Occupation Force; I refuse to refer to the “IDF” since “defense” isn’t really involved, as far as I’m concerned).
The journalists loved Patch and his fellow clowns.
Look close and you'll see Patch with his big nose peering through at the soldier who was doing his best to turn away.
Rebel drummers: Called the Kassamba (a play on the combination of words “Qassam” [as in rocket] and “samba” [as in dancing music]), this group of youth activists uses drums, cymbals and rhythm sticks to bring the power of music and raw, rebellious sound to political activism. As Patch and his clown companions stared into the border-control booth, insisting – oh so gently but firmly – that they be allowed in to play with their fellow children just meters away, Kassambas encircled the booth and pounded out their reinforcement.

Kites (yes, they can be tools of rebellion too!): Kites are a universal symbol of freedom – soaring into the blue yonder tethered only by a thin string (and then often escaping from their “handlers”). These very special kites were purchased in B’ilin – one of the West Bank towns split by the apartheid wall, and that has become a focal point for ongoing nonviolent resistence, both local and international. As we were pushed further and further away from border patrol booth, we merely took advantage of the extra space and began flying our kites (as well as setting up the playground equipment we had planned to transport into Gaza).
Finally, after several hours, the IOF could stand it no more and re-collected their wits. A couple of truckloads of troops showed up and we faced off. What a show of solidarity – it was the Kassambas who took the soldiers on directly, chanting in Hebrew against facism and insisting “we don’t want your fucking war.”

We were eventually forced to go back to our farm, where we are now talking and debating with Israeli peace activists on subjects ranging from boycotts, to the Free Gaza boats, to a legal campaign to help get Gazans move in and out of the Strip to seek education, medical treatment and family reunification. But the Israelis say they are “processing” the names of the individuals who want to cross into Gaza, and we will be back at the border tomorrow. How long I can stay, though, remains unknown. My deportation order remains, and our partners’ attorney is advising me I cannot simply ignore it. We are now hoping to negotiate a couple of days’ more leeway timewise…
Stay tuned…


Salon.com
Comments
I want to comment on the standard of living between Israel and Gaza/West Bank.
In 1967 after the Israeli war in which they occupy the West Bank and Gaza, we the Palestenians living within Israel hurried to visit the west bank cities and to meet for the first time (for some us) our relatives and immediate families (my Mom had a sister) and what we saw was very clean beautiful town with garden restuarants and nice shops much nicer and cleaner than what we had in Israel. We start going shopping and eating every weekend and every opportunity we had. Israel did not like it and started to impose conditions and restrictions and killings which altimately pushed the Palestenians to start their Uprising. Now when I visit Ramallah or Bethlehem I feel very saddened to see the destruction of the towns that were once so clean and pretty. Last Christmas I visited Jericho and tears fell on my face when I asked my brother to let's go to the Restaurant with the beautiful stream that I remembered and he looked at me and said "Where have you been the Israelis destroyed everything".
A few days ago I was on H- street, near China Town, and the DC's Capital. I walked a few blocks, and stopped to browse signs:Bring the troops home ! There were pink Code Pink signs in front of a nice manicured home.
I almost knocked.
I wanted to seze:`
Hi You Thank You.
Wouldn't it be better to protest at a place that actually has impact? Like, the Knesset?
Jon, Code Pink didn't just protest. They built playgrounds for the kids and made a gesture of solidarity with the Gazan people. If they protested at the Knesset it would have been impossible for them to gain entry into Gaza.
So, I see these pictures and I'm like, jeez, leave the poor guys alone. They're just trying to do their jobs so that they can finish up and do whatever they really wanted to do.
You might try hanging out next to the border fence you decry. Just watch out for the horses, they may be loaded with explosives, like the ones the Gazans used (and destroyed) just today, in an unprovoked attack on Israel:
Israelis thwarted Gaza horse bomb attack
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8089535.stm
And Jonathan in Tel Aviv: It always amazes me when people express violent thoughts towards me for merely saying Palestinians have human rights too. "You hope they kidnap me"?! I have been into Gaza -- twice now. And I saw firsthand the deprivation that has been imposed on 1.5 million people -- the vast majority of whom are not suicide bombers or anything even remotely close. But what I now do understand is why some would be driven to such a destructive end. You think you need to maintain this giant prison for your own, privileged security? What you're doing instead is breeding hatred.
(Unlike any other state)
It always amazes me when people like you claim that Jews have "no historic tie(s)" to Israel.
(How stupid *are* you?)
It always amazes me when people like you confuse apartheid with the situation in Gaza, Judea/Samaria, or Israel.
(Really, WTF?)
It amazed me that you were surprised that the Taba border crossing is strictly guarded, when the Sinai is full of heavily armed Al-Qaeda terrorists.
(FYI, they *don't* wear big plastic bits on their faces)
It amazed me that you traveled thousands of miles to a war area about which you obviously know little, and then screamed "we don't want your fucking war."
(Who asked what you want?)
Kindest regards
Maybe you should get a better handle on the present before you start thinking about the past. The EU is not silent on these issues, and makes pronouncements all the time. You can find them using Google.
Good luck.
Kindest regards
I find it odd that you, as an EU citizen who is obviously politically minded, haven't a clue as to what goes on in your name.
The EU, besides being part of the Quartet which is working to implement the Road Map to peace, acts on its own in many ways, both politically and practically, to bring about peace between Israel and the Palestinians (and other countries).
If you are interested in learning about this matter, I suggest you take a look at:
http://ec.europa.eu/external_relations/mepp/index_en.htm
"The EU and the Middle East Peace Process"
Good luck.
Accept my best regards
Padraig, there wasn't an Israel long before 1948. Prior to that, the only "targeting of civilians" was by the Irgun (Etzel), who went on a terror campaign in response to same by the mufti's gangs in The Arab Uprising of 1936-1939.
Not condoning either side, just putting the egg and chicken in order.