The “heart” of democracy is freedom of speech, and one of the most forceful, “untamed” forms of expression is the political demonstration. In Egypt, political demonstrations are banned by the Mubarak dictatorship, but that was one “gift” we were able to leave behind – for both Palestinians in Gaza (who have been watching the media coverage from afar) and locals: a week of robust demonstrations on their behalf that finally managed to break through the wall of MSM (mainstream media) neglect .  By the end of the Gaza Freedom March (today), we had generated coverage on such venerable institutions as BBC  in the UK;  the Globe and Mail in Canada; the New York Times, Los Angeles Times and CNN in the United States;  and the Sydney Morning Herald in Australia. What’s even more amazing is that the Associated Press and Agence France Presse news services carried our story, reaching into the heart of “red America”: Ohio.

 
The GFM protest at the Israeli Embassy made the front pages in Egypt, where demonstrations are outlawed.

To marchers who were discouraged and demoralized because they had come thousands of miles to get into Gaza, the people of Gaza had this to say:

“Despite our grave disappointment that we cannot yet meet you all and that we are still separated by this medieval siege, we feel that your arrival in Cairo has already borne fruit,” wrote Hairdar Eid, chairman of the committee that coordinated the march activities in Gaza. “Your insistence to break the siege in order to be in solidarity with us has inspired many and shamed many others. Thanks to your presence with us, a network to break the siege and free Palestine has been established.”

Majed Abusalama, head of the youth committee in Gaza, wrote in his own letter to the marchers:  “We are still waiting for everyone to cross…but even if Egypt keeps you out, your work in Egypt is critical. Egypt is one of the perpetrators of the blockade, and we so appreciate all the solidarity protests you have conducted at great personal risk throughout the great city of Cairo.  You showed your support of Gaza and Palestine loud and clear, waking humanity up to the 1.5 million persons in Gaza who have been suffering for the past four years. “

Similar cheers came from supporters abroad, applauding the fact that Egypt’s complicity with Israel was finally brought to light. (The coordinator of the French delegation reported that her ambassador said Egypt was poised to approve the march until Israel intervened. “They want to preserve good relations with their neighbors,” the ambassador reportedly said. Note as well that a mailbox for the Mossad  [the Israeli Institute for Intelligence and Special Operatons] can be found in the French embassy in Cairo – along with all of the others, I’ll bet.)  Our protests began at the United Nations, spread to participants’ embassies, branched out to the U.S. embassy and the journalists’ syndicate, and concluded at Tahrir Square (the “heart “ of downtown Cairo) and the Israeli embassy. From the very beginning of the week, the protests were met first with brute force – causing bruises, scrapes and some broken ribs – and then with a tight line of black-suited and helmeted riot police that encircled the demonstrators like a cocoon – as much to shield them from public view as to control their movements. At that point, it was as if a “changing of the guard” had occurred, transitioning from Mubarak’s thugs to young men who often didn’t want to be there any more than we did.

“Some of them they clearly felt shamed by what we had to endure,” says one Canadian. “I have footage of a riot policeman crying as he stood on guard during the violence. He wouldn't answer why he was crying, he just turned his head away.”

I was shocked to learn that Egyptian soldiers, who are required to serve for three years, are paid just 40 EGP (US$7) a month and receive only one meal a day. The French delegates, who occupied the space outside their embassy for five days and got to know their “guards” well, described the hunger in the boys’ eyes when food was brought in for the protesters.  It’s important to remember that the victimizers can be victims too.

Later, as the Egyptian government got wise to our “pattern,” they tried to outsmart us. On Dec. 31, the day of the planned Gaza Freedom March (originally meant for Gaza), I woke up to find the entrance to our hotel completely sealed off by a cordon of police. Our Internet service appeared to be cut off as well – and my gut says it was not a coincidence. One marcher who wrote what the government considered to be an inflammatory article about its actions for a British publication has been banned from entering Egypt ever again.

 
Police surround the headquarters hotel for the GFM 

We were not, however, intimidated. Even when surrounded by police, we made our “encampment” a place for protest – joyous protest.  That is the way I see this opportunity to practice my freedom of expression on behalf of my fellow humans.  What more useful  way to live my life?

 
Making music even as the riot police look on

What do I want from this life? What makes you happy is not enough. All the things that satisfy our instincts only satisfy the animal in us. I want to be proud of myself. I want more. I want to look up to myself and when I die, I want to smile because of the things I have done, not cry for the things I haven't done.

—Tom Hurndall (ISM volunteer who was killed by Israeli troops in Gaza, 2004, while attempting to prevent home demoliltions)