No matter how many times I come to Gaza, each time I enter it is the same.With each step I am able to take in the game of chess it takes to get into the Strip, my heart beats a little faster. …until I finally pass every obstacle thrown in my way and walk the final feet to the friends waiting on the other side. Then, I relax, feeling as if I have come home after a long time away.

Finally, we arrived at Rafah Gate, and “Mr. Mosaad” from the Foreign Press Office was there to greet me. Lo and behold, here was an Egyptian who was truly there to help, no “baksheesh” required or accepted. (I can’t say that for anyone else there. The young boy who grabbed my backpack before I could intercept him and carried for just a few feet is typical. He expected five Egyptian pounds for a tip [about US$1], and the border guard who guided me inside the gate made sure he got it.) I was afraid the plethora of technological devices hidden away in my luggage would attract another demand for money, but was pleasantly surprised when eyebrows were merely raised. My self-congratulations were premature, however. Although bribes and petty crimes are almost non-existent in Gaza, Hamas is no exception to that universal governmental desire to get a cut of any perceived gain its constituents are able to snag. After extensive interrogation of the two friends who had come to pick me up (“how did you meet her?”, “why did she choose you to help her?”, “what will you do with her while she is here?”), we were striding with relief towards the door to the outside of the terminal when we were waved over for bag inspection. That’s when my stash of technology was discovered. Apparently, there is a rule that only one personal laptop can be brought in. After that, a fee must be paid or proof be shown that it is a donation to an NGO or charity. Much haggling later, I left with only two laptops, leaving the other two and the LCD projector behind until we produce such a letter or pay US$100 (significantly negotiated down). [Thank God I didn’t try to bring in alcohol, a common request from foreigners and a few residents when hearing of someone new coming in!]

I heaved a big sigh….and then my friends and I were in their car and speeding to Gaza City… “home sweet home.” Today was a day of rest…sleeping late, hanging with friends, smoking shisha and catching up (or trying to – it’s a losing battle) on emails. Tomorrow, I start work! More on just what my work is in the next post….

Postscript: I heard later from the Egyptian friend who accompanied me to border. As soon as he left me, the police nabbed and interrogated him at length and gave him the same treatment Hamas gave my friend Omar…except Omar wasn’t terrified and Modi was.  The U.S. supports Egypt to the tune of millions of dollars, while isolating the government of Gaza. Yet I’m hard put to see a difference between the two…