OCTOBER 27, 2009 12:20PM

The Secret of Great Pizza

Rate: 27 Flag

chicago-pizza 

 

Pizza once sucked people into Chicago like a gigantic red tomato shaped magnet.

 

Back when everyone had regular jobs and no one had their hand stuck in your pocket grabbing at your health care; Chicago Style Pizza rivaled a trip to the Chicago museums, a walk down Michigan Avenue in the summer winds, and a stroll through marble floored, high ceilinged department stores where a little bell would regularly “ding” and exotic but slightly scary women caked with make-up would spritz musky colognes in your eyes if you didn’t watch out.

 

You’d get a deep dish pizza at one of the dark, wooden booths to top off your day and instantly be ready with an opinion on Chicago’s best pizza.

 

Little did you know that Chicago’s best pizza, whatever your opinion, didn’t hold an empty chianti bottle candle to a place 96 miles northwest of town.

 

There were the tourist places downtown, the cozy warm places tucked in the neighborhoods, the bars where you didn’t care if the pie tasted like a piece of tomato cardboard tossed in a microwave because you had other priorities and "Oh by the way, Can I get you ladies another round?”

 

All of that and unless you hopped on Highway 90 for a 90 minute trip to the northwest; you were still missing the mysterious best pizza ever.

 

And when I say “ever”---I mean more than a year or two.

 

I first tasted this pizza in front of a TV camera decades ago. Picture an early “Wayne’s World” broadcasting from a storefront cable studio on the most often deserted downtown Main Street of Beloit Wisconsin.

 

The coolest guy in school who was, and through one of the true blessings of my life—a stroke of good fortune that is beyond amazement—still is a big brother to me; had his own cable access show. Like a college dorm room that was always entertaining; I don’t remember everything he did. Played old movies, read comic books out loud, funny voices, the news. Whatever it was, I’m certain, and I should record this for history and so his wife won’t hurt me and his kids won’t laugh too hard: he was never, ever, ever dressed in a clown suit. Because clowns have always been creepy. And whatever he did, I know that Wayne and Garth were taking notes.

 

The one bit I remember for sure was having me come on camera and eat a pizza.

 

The success of the pizza place I’m sure had NOTHING to do with my lip smacking moans and yelps of delight. Even back then, the pizza was better than anything in Chicago.

 

The restaurant business both back then and now is brutally competitive. The stats on how many places fail every week are mind numbing. And nowhere is it more competitive than Chicago. Especially now.

 

Back then, when the four pound buckets of cheese, the Chicago deep dish pizzas were at the center of the business, there were chains that sprung up. Ones you don’t see so much anymore. And Chicago has moved beyond the cheese orgies to boast some of the world’s finest cuisine.

 

What’s tough about running a restaurant is that you can’t just be good. You have to be good every night. Every night. I’ve never been a banker. But I have worked in a whole lot of big corporations and been a bartender, and I’m married to a former waitress. And I’m guessing that a banker can have a bad day and still get paid. We couldn’t. In this business the pressure to be good every night is always there.

 

Beyond the discipline of always being good, you dig a bit into what makes a restaurant good and you’ll almost always find family. Might be blood, might not. That doesn’t matter. What matters are the bonds that feel like family. At the pizza place in Beloit, Tony, always in white, always in motion, always ready for the rowdy college kids stumbling in; Tony is long gone. But when the place left the tiny red brick bastion that kept us all so warm against that wicked and cleansing Wisconsin wind and moved across the street to more spacious quarters; his daughter ran the business.

 

This weekend we stopped by on our way back from a tiny town up in Wisconsin and bought an extra large with the works. Half cooked. So we could finish it off at home. It was $16.00.

 

And it was still the world’s best pizza. Why? Maybe the same reason any dish is good. Stuff that sounds simple but isn’t. The fresh ingredients. The lightness of the crust. And more than anything---the balance. That was it. The balance.

 

I didn’t know about balance way back then. I just liked the pizza. Didn’t catch on how in was balanced. Like some kind of symphony where every musician comes through clear and pure.

 

So, what’s the world’s best pizza? The name of the place is Domenicos. If you pass thru Beloit, you’ll find it.

 

Maybe you have a place you like better.

 

Maybe you even know the secret of great  pizza.

 

The secret of great pizza is this: the second you wake up the next morning. The very second you open your eyes, your very first thoughts are:

 

1. How many pieces are left in the refrigerator?

2. How many are mine?

3. How quick can I get to the kitchen to have it for breakfast?

      

 

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For my pal Sandra who just reminded me that ." Life is full of small unexpected blessings." Like getting to write about pizza.
Anchovies are the secret in the sauce.
The only thing I don't like about cold pizza is that the cheese kind of resembles your arteries.
R
I like your reference to "family" and "blood" something you'll never find in restaurants that are broadly franchised. So that makes the secret "just a little bit of love". And you can always taste that love in every bite--whether you eat it in the restaurant or at hoome.
Stomach's growlin'. Road trip!
Balance--yes.
Pizza for breakfast--double yes.
I've never been to Wisconsin, so I can't say whether you are right or wrong.

I can tell you the best pizza in Westchester County, New York was Joe's Fleetwood Pizzeria in Mount Vernon. Joe could make a sicilian pie that would leave you in the throes of ecstasy.

If you had to go to the five boroughs, IMHO the best place was a corner dive called Peppino's on 241st and White Plains Road in Da Bronx. Many a time I'd get off working at midnight and rush over there for dinner.

In Vermont? All I can say is it is damn hard to find honest-to-goodness good pizza here. Or chinese food. Makes me miss New York all over again.

I guess I am now like Diogenes, only instead of looking for an honest man I'm looking for real pizza in the hinterland.

All suggestions welcome.
Made me hungry just thinking about it . . . Beloit, huh?
I've never had a deep dish pizza before. In Colorado, there are New York and California style pizzas everywhere, but not much in the way of deep dish. Sad...
Ever hear of a place called "Pusateri's"? Their sauce and sausage are both to die for. And y'all know how I love good sausage.....!
Mmmmm pizza for breakfast. Thanks for making me hungry!

Rated
I love your three part list! My love of pizza has been reduced to the three dollar frozen variety. Of course I doctor it up before it goes in the toaster oven, but it just shows how far I've fallen lately. Still, cardboard tasting pizza is still better than no pizza at all. i have one in the freezer and now I know what I'm having for dinner! Thanks, Roger.
I went to Domenicos for an early dinner with my mom and my Aunt Jean (Wright) before my concert in Pearson Hall in May of 1996. I haven't been there since July of 1998 on the same day that I experienced a panic attack for the first time. Domenico's, in a way, symbolizes my college experience: it might have been great, but I wasn't well enough at the time to fully realize it. Fortunately, Jeanne and I now have Salerno's on Grand Avenue in Chicago for great pizza whenever we want it.
Chicago Guy,
This is a great post for any pizza lover. Your summarizing questions are right on the money - except for #2.

Obvious answer: “All” because the “how quick” of #3 is less than an hour after going to bed.

Rated and appreciated.
Hmmm, now that sounds good.

I must say I was disappointed by Chicago pizza. I love pizza. I love cheese. I love meat on my pizza. Chicago style pizza is just too much. I didn't think it was possible to have too much cheese, but it is. If I eat only one piece, I'll be totally stuffed.

I'll have to check out this place in Beloit. Thanks for the recommendation!
I'm adding it to my list. My husband and I, both pizza lovers, make a point of trying the pizza in every city we visit.

My favorite Chicago pie is Pizza By Alex (Montrose and Milwaukee) - in addition to being the best in the city, it's also a lot less expensive than those rip off, $30+ pies - I'm sure you know the ones I'm talking about.

Fun post - thank you!
Sounds like heaven to me. Pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner made by people who understand the mojo of making food and feeding people. Thanks!
Roger, when the pizza is REALLY good, I ask those questions before I fall asleep. Sometimes. on my way past the fridge at 3a to go pee in the night. But I'd *never* eat a cold slice of pizza sitting in the dark in the bathroom. :-D
20 miles away from Rockford, that's all it is! Looks like we know where we're headed for dinner this weekend! For those not from this area, Beloit, like its Illinois neighbor Rockford, is an old industrial town that has hit some hard times, which neverhteless has a lot of surprisingly good dining options for a town of its size. Glad you have highlighted this one!
Aureilo's Pizza, the secret of all Chicago pizza is Wisconsin cheese!
GQ called Great Lake pizza the best in the country. It's two blocks from home. Still haven't gotten there. Of course it's only open about 20 hours/week with lines that begin forming two hours before the door opens.
That picture really makes me hungry.
Yummy post. There's something comforting in knowing that the place survives.
Damn.....now I want some pizza!
Pizza hot is delicious. Pizza cold is an underrated taste treat.

Rated.
One of my many trade-offs for living where I do is that I have to make my own with less than stellar ingredients sometimes. But I hear you about the love in your cooking and getting to talk about small blessings.
I'm not going to get dragged into the old "New York style vs. Chicago style" debate. Good pizza is good pizza.

I haven't been in the Janesville-Beloit-Rockford area in quite a while, but if I get back there, I'm-a gonna try Domenico's!
My all time fave was the original Edwardo's on Howard St. (Chicago/ Evanston line) - long gone. They grew fresh basil and oregano in their windows. Superb crust (thick but light), very fresh sauce with just enough complexity, excellent cheese, fresh and tasty additional ingredients, as thick as a Chicago stuffed pizza gets. Edwardo's on Dearborn is good, but not quite as good.

The ultimate test of a good pizza is whether it tastes good cold the next morning. Breakfast of champions. New York pizza is NOT it - too greasy for me.

I haven't yet had pizza in Beloit, so I won't offer an opinion until I've gotten there to try it.
spoken like a true pizza lover, it's always better the next day

My wife is a transplanted Chicagoan and to her there's Chicago-style pizza, of which we have some out here on the left coast, and genuine Chicago pizza, for which you have to make the trip to the source

me, I just love pizza, deep-dish, thin-crust, gourmet ingredients or just cheese and tomatos, I'll take it anyway you make it as long as it's fresh
I want one now. The eve of the most important birthday of my life....xoxoxxx
Well I'll have to make a trip down I43 and give that a try soon - I'll keep you posted.

I recently sampled a new brand being carried in our local Pick N Save from "Home Run" something in Chicago and while it's no deep dish lalapalooza, for a $5 - $7 freezer pizza - It's many cuts above our usual cheapie "go to" - "Jack's" pizza and I cannot keep away from it when it's in the house! It's got a really great tasting, slightly sweet yeasty flavored crust and the cheese is very thick. it's like my new "chocolate"!

Anyway - being a Wisco Girl - just curious to know what little town drew you to Wisconsin this weekend?
We had home made pizza tonight, my 8 year old son's favorite dinner because it's the "most delicious pizza in the world." When he gets older, he may find a thinner or thicker crust pizza, new toppings or deep dish cheese filled, frozen or New York style, maybe, even a favorite small town pizza joint, but he will never find a pizza made with more love!
No, the secret to great pizza is there is never any left. Not with me around. Munch, munch.
Teresa---We were in Edgarton for the 4th Annual Book festival and trying to figure out if there were enough people in the area to open a bookstore. Sadly---there aren't. but the day was spendid and the pizza. . .

JGAH--I believe he won't.

Dennis---Good point!

Jim---true!

Bob Vivant--Alex's YES! Exactaly what I was talking about with neighborhood places. Good call!
The ape's were on a road trip through Illinois in 1989. They stopped at some pizza place, in some little town somewhere. They still swoon about it and gnash their teeth that they don't remember either the name of the place or the town. Really they have moaned about this lack of knowledge at least once a week since 1989 - It's flat out irritating.