There were a few times in my life when I gave up the burger, the modest, but quintessential, all-American food. Though some claim the hot dog is so American, it’s part of the U.S. Constitution, that’s simply not so. We may love hot dogs and claim them as part of our national heritage. But the hamburger? It’s right up there with our national bird and all those monuments.

Years ago, my sister’s flexitarian ways caused me to pause and question the burger’s mightiness. I looked up to her, though she’s younger, because she was the “good eater.” If she knew beef was bad – but chicken and fish OK – who was I, a sugartarian, to argue?

I thought my artichoke-peas-carrots and salad-eating sister was a food god. And she was ahead of her time in her beef ban, though I didn’t know it at the time. Over the years I’ve crossed paths with many people who also swore off beef, but thought nothing of eating chicken, pork, veal, lamb or seafood.

Fast forward a few years, and I abandoned the flexies and embraced the favored backyard entrée. Burgers were just too cheap and easy to keep off the menu – and I missed them. And my kids always wanted them – just straight up of course. But I was all about the toppings – blue cheese, Cajun mayo, gouda spread and Aloutte – there were few fatty toppings I wouldn’t throw on a burger.

Then came Eric Schlosser’s 2001 book “Fast Food Nation” that outlined the global implications of our drive-through burger industry, and explained the plight of beef farmers. After that book, I felt bad for the cow killers, angry at the corporations that ruined beef and scared for my health. I crossed beef off my menu once again.

A trip to Chicago lifted my fear in favor of flavor. There are no burgers anywhere to rival a Chicago burger. I ordered under pressure but left a convert and was reminded once again that Burgers are wonderful and unfairly bullied.

I’ve since embraced my love of burgers to get a cheap thrill out of comparing the cheap patties from the places that specialize. Wendys? Passable, better than BK. McDonalds and White Castle? The chopped onions mixed through make me angry. Sonic? All show. Arby’s? Nothing distinguishing.

New burger chains are spreading all over New Jersey. There’s Five Guys Burgers and Fries? Primo for the price, with tons of free toppings that include mushrooms,  cheddar and bacon. SmashBurger? I’ve yet to try one, but the Twitterverse certainly Tweets its praise. Ditto Elevation Burger, specializing in free-range everything with vegetarian options. Other newer chains I’ve got to try: Bobby’s Burger Place (from chef Bobby Flay); Cheeburger Cheeburger and Fatburger.

Nothing, of course, beats a butcher-prepared pound of freshly ground sirloin. Hand-formed burgers are the best – my mom would never barbecue anything from a package, or even formed by a butcher. Any place I’ve been to that offers hand-formed burgers? They’re almost always better than really good.

Here’s my recipe for the best burger this side of Chicago. Mix and match my suggested toppings according to your pickiness. (I understand.) But don’t skip the buttered bread; and as my 97-year-old grandmother always says, there’s no such thing as too much butter.

Buttery burger with a kick

1 lb. freshly ground butcher-ground quality sirloin (supermarkets have great butchers, btw)

¼ pound of sweet (unsalted) butter – I use Irish butter

¼ cup evaporated milk

4 or so shakes of Worcestershire sauce

A teaspoon of Paul Prudhomme Meat Magic

A quick dash of curry

Toppings (not all of them on one burger. Please.): a variety of cheeses (try feta – I just found out there are more than 7 types!), sautéed mushrooms (finely chopped, sautéed in butter), extra crispy bacon, fried cold-cut-style ham, sauerkraut and mustard, pesto and spinach, guacamole and sour cream.

Straight up is also good, given the mix-through of ingredients. My fave way to eat this burger? Blanketed in quality extra-sharp cheddar, nothing else.

Directions

Mix beef with all ingredients except butter and topping picks.

Form beef into patties according to desire (thick or thin); grill, bake or fry (grill is best, even if it’s just a Foreman grill).

Coat tops and bottoms of buns or bread with butter; grill, toast, broil or fry until golden brown. (toasting requires a toaster oven; line bottom with foil to minimize mess.)

When burgers are almost done according to your desire of rare, medium or well, add topping(s) if melting is required.

Carefully transfer burgers to buttery buns, add toppings and enjoy! Keep lots of napkins nearby.