coogansbluf

coogansbluf
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arlington, Virginia, usa
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September 12
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Former 60's wild child, not much left in the tank, restaurant lifer, baseball fanatic

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Editor’s Pick
OCTOBER 18, 2011 2:40PM

A Professional Chef's Five Favorite Cookbooks

Rate: 11 Flag

I have been working in foodservice in one capacity or another now for more than forty years. I washed dishes, bussed tables, flipped burgers and tended bar. I've worked in fine French Country Inns and Irish Pubs and even did a stint in a topless bar. Over the years I have amassed a large collection of cookbooks and out of all of them these are my top five, my desert island cookbooks...

Alice-Waters-Simple-Food

Alice Waters - The Art of Simple Foods. I think this is a wonderful book, simple recipes as the title implies, delicious results and don't we all need more simplicity in our lives? The recipe for Roast Pork is one of the best things I have ever eaten. I sometimes find Alice Waters kind of hard to take but I have to say, I love this book and use it often.

wolfgang

Wolfgang Puck - Modern French Cooking For The American Kitchen. Before he became a TV star and pizza maker, Wolfgang Puck was in the forefront of modernizing cooking methods. I received this book as a gift twenty-five years ago and it changed the way I cooked both at home and at work.

250px-TheJoyOfCookingCover

Yes, the Joy of Cooking. For years before the internet if I could not find a recipe anywhere else I could almost always find it in Joy. Still packs a punch for the number of recipes for cookies, pies and cakes alone. I still have the old edition my mom gave me and break it out several times a year at holidays during baking season

baking

Artisan Baking Across America - Maggie Glezer. I cook for a living but I bake bread for joy and this is one of the best bread books I've ever had. Not a ton of recipes but those it does have are excellent, easy to follow and the results are fantastic. Full of great pictures and resources.

mexican

When I was a young man first out of chef school and and working in the Washington, DC area, there was nothing I loved more than real Mexican food. Unfortunately there were very few places where you could actually get good Mexican food (or pizza, bagels, real Italian food and don't even mention Bialys). Diana Kennedy, the foremost authority on the regional cuisines of Mexico first released the The Cuisines of Mexico in 1972 and anyone who has eaten beyond Old El Paso will recognize that this is serious food. Be prepared to get your kitchen dirty and eat food better tha anything you've eaten anywhere outside of the barrio. A big plus these days is most of the ingredients are now available in your local market. When I first started using this book I used to have to buy some of the spices and chiles mail order. 

It's tough to choose just five out of all the books I've collected over the years. I will give a couple of honorable mentions; Pork & Sons, a recent big, beautiful book of French pork recipes full of wonderful text and pictures and as a chef I have to mention the Repertoire de la Cuisine, a classic French cookbook by Louis Saulnier for chef's first released in 1914. It is probably the most bare bones cookbook you will ever encounter. Basic ingredients and method but a treasure trove of classic French recipes from the Golden Age by one of Escoffier's protegees.

I've had many books fall out of favor with me over the years, cooking has changed drastically over the course of my career. When I started chef school up in Hyde Park the basic text book, The Professional Chef had recipes for Baked Hamburger Loaf and Cream of Tomato Soup. The newest edition looks like a coffee table book. Every time I move I almost invariably donate a box full of cookbooks to the library. I'm also sure there are plenty of cooks who will read this and say, "Feh!" but it's my list and I'm sticking with it.

Happy cooking.

 

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Comments

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I will check out the titles. Nice to see you post again.
In particular Alice Waters' book looks appealing to this "Cheap Bastid". Thanks.
My mother, back in the 1930's, used to use "The Settlement House Cookbook" but her copy finally fell apart and became irreparable and subsequent editions never were as good.
As a fellow professional cooker, I find this fascinating. I also rely heavily on "Joy," Diana Kennefy, and the artisan baking book. I have several Alice Waters books (although not the one you mention) but find that most of her recipes aren't useful to me at work or at home. This was really interesting, and I thank you for it.
For me it is Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking," both volumes. Taught me the basics, which I use in every cuisine.
I love cookbooks, and there are a few here I don't have. I'll be sure to give them a look, thank you.

Walter- the "Cheap Bastid" would really like "The More With Less Cookbook". Published by the Mennonites with recipes from their members around the world, with a focus on economy and sustainability of ingredient production. Highly recommended.
I like Julia's The Way to Cook, but you can't beat the Joy of Cooking for telling a Peace Corps volunteer what that strange item in the local market is, and how to cook it. Chayotes, Breadfruit, Lam Veritab (don't quite remember what that was in English), it offered recipes and advice on how to tell if it was ripe. Further, unlike many exotic cookbooks, it didn't assume that you were buying your odd Caribbean vegetable in an upscale suburban store which had an equal variety foods from South East Asian or Lapland.
I still have my mother's "Joy of Cooking" and the "Settlement Cookbook". But I must say, when I was just married, years ago, I wore out my orange Betty Crocker cookbook which taught me the basics that I used to make many "creations" from. Thanks for your post.
I have "Joy of" but none of the others. I also have my granny's copy of Mrs Beaton, re-bound by my aunt, who took a night class in bookbinding just to preserve it (yes I know the whole book is available free online but the aforementioned makes it officially an heirloom). The front cover picture alone makes me want the bread one!
I attend a free Finnish conversational group and as gratitude bake a cake or something cake.like each week as a gift for the group. I got tired looking up individual recipes and analyzed the basics of a cake batter and discovered it was so simple I never have to use another recipe. From the basic recipe it is easy to make individual variations for whatever variant taste ingredient is in season or in the fridge.
I also had an ancient copy of the Fanny Farmer Cookbook that I used a ton when I was young
Thanks for this post. There are so many cookbooks out there; recommendations are helpful and these look great. I do have to echo the comment above. I, too wore out an orange Betty Crocker cookbook my mom gave me sometime around 1970. I don't know if that says more about my aspirations as a cook or the quality of the book. Still have it, held together with a big rubber band.
I don't follow cookbooks unless baking, but it is time to branch out and learn some new tricks...I'll be checking out your list! Thanks.
Old cookbooks are a snapshot of history, that's for sure! As a thrift store shopper I find all sorts of artifacts. These days, the Internets have replaced cookbooks and I admit to missing the days when you read a cookbook from front to back. And there is a tendency, these days, to throw out anything deemed "old fashioned" without a care to what actually tastes good. That's what we should all be after -- it should taste GREAT.

I have to say the ONLY cookbook I have consistently returned t0 (even if I tweaked extensively, 'cause I'm a tweaker) is this one: http://www.amazon.com/Miss-Rubys-American-Cooking-Americas/dp/0060160802
You know I love any conversation about cookbooks! I lucked up on an early edition of "Cuisines of Mexico" w/ dj at the library sale table for $1. Excellent list!
Wonderful post, and glad to see you here. I love my Joy of Cooking book among many others. I tend to stick the basics -- I still make things out of the church ladies' books my mother left me because they are simple and tasty -- but do love Dorrie Greenspan's Around My French Table. I am going to try to find the Mexican book you mentioned since it's hard to find decent Mexican cuisine on this side of the border.