The Ingredients

It's About Food

David Schiller

David Schiller
Birthday
January 14
Bio
Author of upcoming book The Ingredients, founder Sharing the Table food charity, cook, food-lover, Zen enthusiast and author of The Little Zen Companion.

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JANUARY 29, 2012 10:28AM

Second Chance Greens

Rate: 6 Flag

The other night I took my oldest son to Momofuku. He’d been to Momofuku Ssam before, but not the original noodle bar. I couldn’t wait for him to try the ramen. See, I said, watching with a particular kind of pleasure as he tasted the food, as the look on his face changed with each bite.

Later I realized that I’d been doing this with him for twenty years. I still clearly see his high chair, his Beatrix Potter bowl, his spoon, like a tiny rubber-coated espresso spoon, his bibs, and remember the slow, patient feedings, spoon into porridge and across and into his mouth, and the wait to see how he would react: eating it sometimes, sometimes not, wanting more or spitting it out or grabbing my hand along the way. Then came the parade of new foods. We followed the standard allergy-drill for new parents, introducing them one at a time. We bought a baby food mill and I felt so proud to take a baked sweet potato, organic of course, something I’d made, absolutely brimming with vitaminic goodness, then puree it and feed to him. He ate it. I swelled with love. Next up: carrots. Now: pork belly with hoisin sauce.

Only twenty, he’s still eating new things all the time. But what about us? How often do we try something new? Two weeks ago I had my first whelk. It was on a seafood platter at a restaurant called the John Dory, nestled in ice among impeccable oysters and littlenecks and half a lobster. It had a minerally of-the-sea flavor and a pleasant, gelatinous texture. Tasty, but I ate it gingerly, chasing this foreign thing in my mouth with a piece of Parker House roll. I probably won’t be looking for whelks on my next trip to the fish market.

 

But then consider the case of something like collards. Collard greens are hardly new or exotic. I’ve had them over the years in restaurants, always with ribs, and where they were always dank and kind of greasy. So though I cook for a family that loves greens, down to an eleven-year-old who barely tolerates other vegetables, I’ve never given them a chance. They turn up in the CSA share, big, coarse, rubbery grey-green leaves banded together, and somehow I always forget to use them.

It’s not a matter of preference, not a white meat vs. dark meat thing. It’s not being picky. It’s not Eww, a whelk?! It’s a prejudice, really. It’s about stereotyping an ingredient, seeing it one way, and one way only, and never bothering to take a real look. So it might as well be new. And there’s the hidden upside—a kind of second chance, the opportunity to try something “new” and experience the flush of discovering that it is delicious. Very delicious.

I made them on a snowy Saturday afternoon to go with a dish of ginger-scallion noodles. Look for leaves that are vibrant, green, without yellowing or brown spots. Wash thoroughly, then cut out the tough center rib and they’re ready. I rolled the leaves and sliced them into wide ribbons, then steam-sauteed them with ginger, garlic, dried hot peppers, and a dash of soy sauce, making sure to let them overcook to get that delicious dry sear where greens begin to stick to the cast iron pan.

I invited my oldest son to join me for lunch. The two of us sat down with chopsticks. It was his first real taste of collards. Mine too.

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Comments

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I do the same thing -- watch faces as they eat, and especially my children, looking to document the moment when they realize "I DO like...." And I love discovering new tastes myself.
Nice post. It's so refreshing to see fresh greens on such a winter's day. Kale is one of my favorites. Thanks for this.
Rated♥
It's one of the reasons to cook — to see those faces...and not for our own gratification, but theirs.
I'll try this, thank you!
Love this post. We are in the midst of trying a lot of new things, b/c we are eating more of a vegan/vegetarian diet now. It's fun having recipes we've never had before and using ingredients in new ways. So much of food and cooking is habit.
Second-Chance Greens. Compound adjective needs a hyphen before the noun. Think of grammar as a recipe . . .
I'm green with envy...ha...and game. Throw me those collards. Gimme the green.

Now teach me how to make my grandkids as adventurous as yours. They prefer only beige food.
Most Ethiopian restaurants serve a dish called "Gomen". It's finely chopped collard greens with a slightly sharp vinegar edge and a really tasty array of flavoring spices. If you never thought you liked (or might like) collard greens, give Gomen a chance. I never thought I'd like 'em but I was wrong. Ethiopian food rocks.
Thanks for a great article on collard greens. We just had some from our winter gardens tonight! I have a CSA program here in west TN and while some of my customers don't care for greens, others love them. I like this recipe, we just cooked them with organic chicken stock (from our own chickens), some balsamic vinegard or you can use Marsala wine, and garlic. There are so many ways to use collard greens, something I didn't like as a child. Some of my customers will try it in kale recipes.
One thing I try to do and get the 24 year old to do and that is to try new things. Many times, I have found it to be a most enlightening and delicious event. It is why I also ask my customers, each year around this time, to let me know if they would suggest something new for me to grow although I love to shop the seed catalogs full of all sorts of heirloom veggies. There is so much to experience!
Grammar as a recipe — great suggestion. And I'm usually the grammar guy, so thanks for the catch.
Oh, and definitely giving Gomen a chance on next visit to an Ethiopian restautant. Thanks!
And Kale! Don't shy away from Kale. It's my all time favorite veggie, even when I was a kid.
Yes, kale! Curly, Russian, dinosaur, all so good. In fact, my daughter's favorite (just turned 12), so, like in your case, a childhood favorite. Pretty nice, thanks.