d o c t o r a n d m a m a

Linda Shiue

Linda Shiue
Location
San Francisco Bay Area, California, USA
Birthday
December 31
Bio
I am a physician and spend my free time with my husband and kids, reading everything in sight, eating, traveling, and cooking meals inspired by my travels. These days I'm spending more time at my food blog, spiceboxtravels.com. Please visit me there and follow me on Twitter @spiceboxtravels. Disclaimer: Health information presented here is not intended nor recommended as a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your own physician or other qualified health care professional regarding any medical questions or conditions. © 2010-12 Linda Shiue. All Rights Reserved.

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FEBRUARY 19, 2010 9:38AM

Mardi Gras of the Caribbean: Trinidad Carnival 2010

Rate: 7 Flag

Photo from www.gotrinidadandtobago.com 

New Orleans is justly proud of its Mardi Gras, but the world's biggest and wildest pre-Lenten party may be Trinidad's Carnival. Trinidad just finished celebrating its Carnival this week, February 15 and 16, 2010.  

I first learned about Trinidad's carnival from my husband, whose family has lived there for at least three generations.  Trinidad and Tobago is a multicultural nation, with a population descended from African slaves, indentured laborers from India, merchants from China and the Middle East, and colonists from Europe, including England, France, and Spain.  All of these cultures have contributed traditions and musical influences to Carnival, making this party vastly different from Carnival in New Orleans, Rio, or Venice. Mainly because of its most recent colonial influence from the English, on most days Trinidad has a very buttoned up, formal culture.  Polite greetings and and general sense of propriety are expected.

All of that changes in Carnival season.

According to the official carnival commission, Trinidad's Carnival originated in the 18th century:


In 1783 the French brought their culture, customs and Carnival, in the form of elaborate masquerade balls, to Trinidad along with African slaves. The period stretching between Christmas and the start of Lent was a time for feasting, fancy dress balls and celebration for both the French and British. Banned from the festivities, slaves in the barrack yards would hold their own celebrations mimicking their masters' behaviour while incorporating rituals and folklore. Once slavery was abolished in 1838, the freed Africans took their Carnival to the streets and, as each new immigrant population entered Trinidad, a new flavour was added to the festivities.

The influence of the African slaves' cultures is felt heavily in the African derived dancing and music that is central to Trinidad's calypso and soca music.   Musical competitions make up a large part of Carnival.  To win the main competition, Calypso Monarch, is an honor and a highly coveted prize, which includes not only fame but also a trophy, a car, TT $500,000 (approx. US $80,000) and possible endorsements and other contracts. Other major competitions include King and Queen of the Bands, the International Soca Monarch, the Carnival Road March; and Panorama (for steelpan). There are also limbo, stickfighting, and other competitions.
As with other Carnivals, many participants wear elaborate costumes, often decorated with feathers and sequins. Carnival "bands" are organized groups made up of participants who pay for costumes fashioned by a designer and assembled by teams of volunteers. The costumed participants "play mas," which entails dancing through the streets to the sounds of a steel band, a soca band or a d.j.  A unique feature of this parade is that locals and tourists alike participate in the parade of bands. 

national Carnival Commission of Trinidad and Tobago

The official Trinidad and Tobago tourism website describes the Carnival festivities:

J'Ouvert
Each year at 4 am on Monday, Carnival begins under a cloak of darkness. Fuelled by exhilaration and the energetic rhythms of soca music, revellers take to the streets for the predawn party of J'Ouvert.  J'Ouvert (from the French 'jour ouvert' or 'day open') is almost ritualistic in its celebration of the darker elements of the island's folklore and history. Bathed in chocolate, mud, oil and paint, bands of revellers depict devils, demons, monsters and imps. Choose your medium of expression; J'Ouvert is a time for loosening of inhibitions.

national Carnival Commission of Trinidad and Tobago

Carnival Monday 
Come daytime, the J'Ouvert revelry clears and massive costumed bands of "Pretty Mas" players flood the street with riotous colour. A cast of thousands take to the street "jumping up" and "wining" (gyrating of the hips) to the sound of soca blaring from speakers piled on music trucks. The excitement is at fever pitch, but Carnival Monday is only a "warm-up" for Carnival Tuesday.
 via Wikipedia

Carnival Tuesday begins promptly at 8 a.m. Thousands of masqueraders are in full costume, ready and impatiently awaiting their chance to strut in front of the television cameras as bands cross the main judging points. Each band has its own historical, mythological or tropical concept with various sections depicting aspects of the main theme.
national Carnival Commission of Trinidad and Tobago
As wild an event as Carnival is, Trinidad is still a very family-oriented place.  Children are very much a part of Carnival, and get to "jump up" in their own bands: 
by Trinidad Guardian 

To really get a sense of what Trinidad Carnival is all about, you would have to be there, to see the sights, feel the rhythms, and join in the revelry.  A distant second is seeing images and listening to the music.  Here is a video clip showing some photos and footage of Trinidad carnival, and a sampling of soca:  

 

  
If this has piqued your interest in Trinidad Carnival, read this hilarious essay from the Islands magazine editor in 2009 about his introduction to wining at last year's event.
I wrote previously about the food of Trinidad, which is just as multicultural, vibrant, and intense as its music and Carnival. 
___________________________________________________ 
Sources: 

 © Linda Shiue, 2010

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Comments

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Thank you for posting this, I love the photos!
caroline marie, thanks for stopping by. The costumes are beautiful, aren't they? A lot of work goes into making those costumes- basically after Christmas until Carnival.

Bonnie, grumpy is OK. I thought about including a recipe, but see my link at the bottom to a full post I dedicated to the subject.
Always a joy--thanks!!
Very informative! I think J'ouvert, which sounds like I open, is the most interesting part of the festivities. It is as if the dancers come and chase these darker aspects away. Very interesting. Thanks.
Beautiful post, as always, Linda.
JulieShanti: thank you!
Lucy: I agree with you. Trinidad has such an unknown culture to much of the world, I am always interested in giving it more exposure (plus learning more over time).
Kathy: thank you for stopping by!
A colorful and informative post, Linda. It reminds me of the annual Carifest I try to catch in Montréal. It's colorful, joyful and contagious in its happy abandon and revelry. This year's will be held on July 3rd. I can just imagine a colorful river of costumes, dancing people and caribbean music bands flowing down on Ste. Catherine Street. If you'd like, check out this link for some pictures. http://www.pbase.com/ssim/montreal_caribean_parade
Rated
Thanks, Fusun! I've been to Caribana in Toronto before, but didn't know Montreal had its own celebration as well. En francais? Maybe we'll check it out.