15 Minutes for Fifth Company Village, Trinidad, and Naipaul
I thought it would never happen. But finally, this week, my husband's village has made the news! Nothing earth shattering, just an article about a narrow and unsafe bridge that seems to be a bit of an accident magnet. But news nonetheless. Better yet, my brother-in-law is quoted substantially in the article. So here's a little press for their little village. Maybe some attention will get them a safer bridge.
My husband was born and raised in a small village in the south of Trinidad called Fifth Company Village. As far as anyone knows, this tiny village in the tiny country of Trinidad and Tobago had never before made the news. It's so rural and unknown, that basically everyone he has met since leaving the village for college has found it unbelievably remarkable that he could "make it out" and become a professional in the States, his humble origins unimaginable. According to the National Library of Trinidad, the village was
"settled in 1816 by the fifth of six companies of Black American soldiers. These were ex-slaves who had helped the British fight during the American war of 1812, and therefore when the British lost the war they could not remain in that country. Soon after the arrival of Sir Ralph Woodford as Governor of Trinidad in 1813 he petitioned the British for some of these ex-soldiers. For he was appalled to find Trinidad still a wild, forested place and he wanted the soldiers to help in the clearing up of the island."
After the forest was cleared, plantations were established for the production of cocoa, coffee and sugarcane. While many of these plantations are gone, it is still a rural area. Fifth Company Village is close enough to South America that from a short drive away to the coast, you can see the shores of Venezuela on a clear day.
Since many people without Caribbean connections are unfamiliar with Trinidad (at one point, immigration officials in American Samoa asked him to point it out in an atlas, to prove its existence), I'd like to share the little bit that I know about my husband's homeland. Trinidad and Tobago is one country with two main islands, as you might guess from its name. Trinidad, which was a British colony until 1962, is perhaps best known for inventing the steel drum and calypso, as well as its bacchanalian Carnival, which I wrote about previously. It also has an amazing yet underappreciated cuisine, which I have enjoyed learning to cook. As a legacy from the British, Trinidad boasts one of the best educational systems in the Caribbean, which is a major factor that allowed my husband to escape his humble origins.
It also is fortunate to have an awful lot of oil; people there are used to seeing pumping jacks among the sugarcane fields and banana groves. Here's one in my husband's backyard. Happily for Trinidad but unfortunately for us, their land ownership doesn't extend below ground.
Aside from oil, Trinidad's greatest exports are two Nobel Laureates in Literature: Derek Walcott, who was born in St. Lucia but moved as a young adult to Trinidad, where he still resides part of the time, and V.S. Naipaul.
Naipaul, whose work is largely focused on diasporas, is well known for distancing himself from his origins in Trinidad, in Chaguanas. Equally eccentric as he is famous, he embodies the phrase, "more English than the English." My husband and I were excited to meet him several years ago when he came to San Francisco to promote his book, Half a Life. He was wearing a subdued grey striped ascot (yes, so English) and spoke in a posh English accent. My husband brought with him his favorite of Naipaul's novels, A House for Mr. Biswas, which colorfully captures the local color of everyday life in Trinidad. It was an old, dog-eared paperback edition that he had read while still in high school in Trinidad, and he couldn't wait to get it autographed.

I came empty handed, and bought a copy of Half a Life. I was ahead of my husband in line, and attempted to make conversation with Naipaul. "We are so excited to meet you, Mr. Naipaul," I gushed, with the kind of eagerness that people usually reserve for the likes of Justin Timberlake. "I've read many of your books, and my husband is from Trinidad."
Naipaul looked up from inscribing my book to glance with visible disdain at my husband and his tattered, faded paperback. He broke from his studied Englishness to chastise my husband in an unexpected Trinidadian accent,"What, you too cheap to buy my new book?"
My husband, who up to this point was silent in his awe, took the insult as encouragement. "You know, I am so glad to meet you, I really love A House for Mr. Biswas."
To which Naipaul, who had after a second already reverted back to his British reserve, said dismissively, "Carry on."
© 2010 Linda Shiue


Salon.com
Comments
Three cheers, Linda, for your husband's village.
I tried Rating you, but the box isn't responding. Disdainful, like Vidia.
R
Great post about a place I never knew much about.
I think the literacy in Trinidad is still one of the highest in the world.
Whenever I think of Trinidad I always remember Shark and Bake on Sundays at the beach!
Bonnie- thank you. He is very kind, compassionate, and funny.
Billy Glad: I have read of but not read Theroux's book about his ex-friend, but apparently he had much to say.
Kathy: thanks.
Sheila: thank you. Lots of people are unfamiliar with this very special place, so I am glad to spread the word.
Poppi: should be great! Hope you spend time on both islands, bcs they are very different geographically and culturally.
scupper: thank you
catherine: do consult before going!
Kim- great to hear from you! Looking forward to your updates. I may write something next week about my trip.
Ann: if you read more about Naipaul in his biography, you would feel even less kindly. Kind of shocking, actually.
HenryR: I think it's complicated. I think when you're from a place that is so unknown and underappreciated, you feel proud and loyal to those who have made it from your country, even as ghastly they may behave.
Nikki: thanks for stopping by.
Jeannette: thanks. I guess you can love the writing but not the man, but if you like neither...
i love derek walcott too...especially his poem the schooner's flight.
My best book signing was meeting Dick Francis in horse country Virginia and talking to him and his wife about bravery.
Joan and dianaani: thank you! Trying to branch out, just a little, at least this once...
greenheron: I agree. But that's humanity, neither all good nor all bad. You can't deny his talent, but really an awful lot has been written negatively about his character.
Bellwether: so glad to be able to give a glimpse into new territory! But now you have me thinking about writing about food again; my default. Coming sometime soon.
Rated.
My sister, cousin, best friend & I will be in Belize next week & later...Mo'Bay, Jamaica.
Hummm! This post makes me want to go to Trinidad & Tobago, as well.
Thank you Linda for the wonderful post.
Rated!
Gabriela: have a great trip to the islands! Do you have Caribbean roots?
Hopefully the bridge safety in your husband's village will improve in the near future!
I have several maternal members that live on the Leeward Islands: in Antiqua and Montserrat. Then I have a great aunt & her family that lives in Trinidad; and 2 great uncles in Tobago. I have several cousins that live in Barbados, which is east of the Windward Islands.
RE: Literature...there are many Americans with Caribbean roots that are well acquainted with world literature. Those with a more pluralistic view (or blended families), tend to be exposed to more of the arts & other cultures. That is what I find amazing about the American culture. America is filled with many cultures and is very plural/inclusive of many. Yet, there seems to be a tendency to not be comprehensive, from a world standpoint, in it's views of the arts, ethnicity, and global political concerns. Many people from the Caribbean speak English, French, and Spanish. We are aware that our people are scattered all over the globe, therefore our concerns & interest are more widespread. Does that make sense? I am not sure if I am explaining myself clearly. What can be so enriching (if one is seeking it): is the wonderful opportunity that we are afforded--here in America; to experience many cultures without having to go very far to do so. Often times, they are your neighbors or co-workers, or those that live right in your communities. It really depends on one's interest; to be able to see it and take advantage of these unique opportunities. As opposed to being one-dimensional; these opportunities can make us more sensitive of each other and broaden our own lives & households. Just think of the learning potential hear? It is very amazing!
Also; I am surprised at the number of Americans that do not have passports. That again is so amazing to me. So one would tend to ask, what is America? How would you define it? America is a country in which many cultures can freely live (being a democratic society which promotes that freedom); having the freedom of preserving one's culture and experiencing many more. That is the beauty of being an American: the freedom to expand one's life and view. One can choose to live in a cave or one can go high on the American sphere and see the wide range of cultural experiences. I hear on the news, all those who shout.."my country or our way of life is being threatened by outsiders and people from other countries." But Linda...people from other countries are already here and have been here for quite some time. America is filled with many flavors and that is what seasons us. Many of us are born here, but our ancestry extends beyond the American borders. Our eyes & minds should also extend, beyond the borders, to claim our entire bloodline. Again, this can be a unique and wonderful opportunity, if one allows themselves to experience the beauty of it all.
I suggest that everyone gets a passport, and travel to where your ancestors originated and see for yourselves, what our Elders experienced, when they came here to this country. One of my goals after completing my undergraduate degrees, was to go to every country that I had relatives living and where I knew my ancestors had originated. This exploration has continued and has been so rewarding.
Thanks Linda, for a wonderful post that allows me to say all of that. I don't always extend my views, beyond my own blog, However, I feel comfortable doing so here. It's like visiting family; where you can simply relax and feel at home. Thank you for making me feel at home, at your place. Next time I come, I will bring dessert and a bottle of wine! Ciao!
The best to you & your family, Gabriela