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JUNE 30, 2008 1:23AM

Culinaria: Chicken Pastry

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19 enjoy

Eastern NC Chicken Pastry

This dish was traditionally made with a whole chicken and was very high in fat.  I have updated the recipe to reduce the fat and increase the richness of the broth to compensate.  Although the dish is quite easy to make, it requires a finesse of assembly that is best suited to side by side learning or pictures to indicate textures and details.  Making and dropping the pastry takes about 20 minutes.  The dish/stew will serve 6-8 people.  Children love it.

The pastry dough has nothing but flour and water and so must be handled lightly to avoid development of gluten.  I learned this from my mother who learned it from her mother who learned it from her mother.  It is a time honored classic and a means to feed 11 children with one bird and a portion of flour.  A recipe for hard times and empty bellys.

The key to this dish is the rich, savory broth.  Start with one gallon of cold water.  Add three chicken breasts with attached wings, bones and skin.  Add one tablespoon each of pepper, celery salt, and sea salt.  Add one teaspoon of onion powder and 3 chicken bouillon cubes.  Set to a low simmer and stew chicken for two hours, uncovered.  The broth will reduce to 1/2 gallon.  (Resist the temptation to add more water.  The quantity of flour used requires all of the salt recommended to achieve the full flavor of the dish. ) Remove breasts and wings and set broth aside for addition of pastry.  Discard wings and reserve breasts for deboning and return to the pot.

The shoe peg corn is added to balance the saltiness of the dish.  yellow corn may be used, but white shoe peg is preferred.  An acidic side dish cuts the richness of the dish and a light macerated cucumber and tomato is recommended.  Collards or other greens dressed with vinegar are also excellent accompaniments.

 

 

       1 measure 2 shaggy dough

Measure 2 cups unbleached self-rising flour and 2 cups unbleached

all-purpose flour in a large bowl. 

Add 2 cups of water and stir to make a shaggy, wet dough.

       3 portion for rolling 5 dredge

Cut the dough into four pieces and dredge in regular flour and set aside.

        7 roll flat 8 handle easily

Roll one portion at a time, turning halfway through, to 1/8 inch sheet.

Flour board liberally so that dough does not stick.

       9 cut into strips 10 pull pieces

Cut into rough 2 x 3 rectangles and lift one at a time and add to broth simmering at a rolling boil.  As you add each layer, press down with a wooden spoon to coat each piece with broth.  They will not stick to each other if you allow enough broth to coat each one before adding the next piece.  You need to work quickly.  After each full sheet of pastry is added, the broth will come back to a boil as you roll out the next sheet. Roll, cut, add, and repeat for the remaining three portions of dough.  Each new sheet  should be slightly thinner than the last to allow for the different cook times for the batches of pastry.

       12 find boil thru 13 drop on spot

You locate a spot where the broth is rolling through and lay the next piece of pastry over the rupture.  This coats each noodle with fresh broth.

       14 all in 15 debone

When all of the pastry is added, stir the pot and it will show some of the pastry pieces are nearly done while others are raw.  They will all become semi-translucent when they are done.  While the pot simmers on low for ten minutes debone the 3 chicken breasts used for the broth.

        17 add ch and corn 18 stir and simmer

Add the boned chicken and 1 cup of yellow or shoe peg corn.  Stir and simmer another five minutes.  Serve with collards or other greens and Sweet Tea.

19 enjoy
 

Eastern NC Chicken Pastry, sometimes known incorrectly as chicken and dumplings.  Dumplings are not rolled flat, thus pastry is correct.  Variations on the name of this dish abound but I am going with how it is where I grew up.  Chicken and dumplings is usually referencing a dish similar to this but substituting risen corn meal dumplings, also delicious and filling.  Some southern women pride themselves on rolling super thin dough.  My kind refer to this as chicken slick.  We prefer the artisanal quality of slight variation in thickness for each bite, allowing a slight chewiness.  Each pastry should remain whole and not "gummy".  Allowing the dish to simmer too long on heat will cause this.  Adding a scant 1/4 cup of water at the end of cooking will loosen the broth if it is too thick.  The free flour remaining on the pastries as they are added will make a roux-like sauce from the broth.  After the pastries are glossy and semi-translucent, they should be served immediately, although any remaining pastries allowed to cool in the pot are usually eaten by happy men and children while standing over the pot in the secrecy of the quiet kitchen. 

This dish is always served at out family homecomings, along with fried chicken, pan-fried cornbread, collards, sliced tomatoes, and banana pudding.  At least when I am cooking !  Bon Appetit and good luck

 

 

 

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Comments

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Show off! It looks too damned good!

And where are my hush puppies? And my clay pot.
That's right! You have had this stuff...testify!

It is super starchy, but tasty as well.
My dear, here in LA the food trend is very raw, Asian, natural and salady. Your delicious recipe and photos make me crave a bit of savory comfort food.
That is truly what it is...and i am sure you could have it for dinner tonight. It is much easier in fact than in description. Like a well made scone, it is best learned at the elbow of your favorite cook.
I like starchy, too much.

Does anyone outside of eastern North Carolina serve collards? It's the only place I've ever seen them. Bane of my youth, the school cafeteria served them almost daily. Collards, overcooked green beans, and okra, the triumverate of green vegetables.

Reading your post brings up shades of my youth, the Taylor's annual pig pickin' at their farm, picking cucumbers there in the summer for extra money (for some reason we always called it pickin' pickles) and harvesting peanuts from the Anderson's farm and bringing them home to boil or roast. I remember massive fields of tobbaco and cotton, grey shacks in various states of disrepair, tiny towns where the only business was a small gas station and grocer (same building). I guess a lot of that is gone now; this was all before they put in the 64.

We spent summers at either Nags Head or Ocean Isle where our friends had a beach house, "The Three Nuts Hut." We surf fished for bluefish and pan-fried it for breakfast. Other days we took the Nashes' bass boat out on the channel and caught trout.

Man, I'm working up an appetite here. And I don't have any of those foods from my youth. Oh while in Boulder recently I had shrimp and grits, thought I'd died and gone to heaven!
Nice! My mom and dad used to make this. We did it with dumplings, although of a flour variety, not meal. We used a whole hen, which I still prefer. My concession to lighter, healthier eating is to freeze the stock after the hen is removed. Then it's easy to skim the congealed fat from the broth. It makes a lighter, but still flavorful dish that doesn't run through you the way some greasy foods do. Nicely done, e!
Farmer, I eat collards at least once a week. Not Southern style, with bacon grease, vinegar and sugar like my grammy used to make, but just washed, hand torn into small pieces and steamed until tender using my steamer basket in my 1947 pressure cooker. I do allow a little real butter and some salt for flavor.

Elizabeth, your man is one of the luckiest guys on earth.
Here in Mississippi, that would be called chicken and dumplings. I know that in most of the country a "dumpling" is like a biscuit, a blob of dough dropped into the boiling broth. But here, we roll and cut the dough into strips, just as you have done. And we do call them dumplings.

Farmer, we have collards. I love collards. You just bop on by and we'll have some with homemade corn bread :)
Oh, I should add that we make our dumplings with flour, not corn meal. I am unfamiliar with risen corn meal dumplings, but I AM intrigued. Me like corn meal. Mmmmmm, corn meal.
For the corn meal variation with dumplings:
1 cup corn meal
1 cup self-rising flour
1 tsp onion powder or 1 minced shallot
1 egg
1 cup water

Mix and let sit for 5 minutes. It will rise slightly.
Bring same broth to boil and reduce to slightly moving simmer.
Drop tablespoonfuls of mix into broth one at a time, allow to sink, do not stir.
Cover and simmer on low heat for 15 miutes.

You have to cook and serve this gently or the dumplings might fall apart. A bit of a hat trick, but really worth the effort.

Straight corn meal with no flour to lighten makes for rocks in pots.
My husband has said that if I opened a restaurant and just made our regular house food, we could sell out every day.

But he's partial.

If I lived in NYC or SF, I would market it just like that. And it would still cost $4 per pot to make. Sweet.
This looks awesome, Priddy; I'm gonna give it a try. Lofton is eating like a horse these days, so anything that can stretch the budget and fill the belly is a welcome addition to the repertoire.

JD, look for Ume Plum Vinegar (Eden makes a good version) next time you're at your local Whole Foods-like emporium. Drizzle it along with some Ex Virgin olive oil on collards, dino kale or any other colon-cleansing leafy greens for a real taste treat!
Thank you, ma'am. I am going to give the corn meal dumplings a try.
I hope everybody who likes comfort food will try it. The pictures give the secrets away. My mother said there wasn't anything to it, you just need to watch it a few times. And trly she's right. There are only three ingredients and some seasonings. It should be unctuous, in a good way, when done right. It is a perfect food for when you are sick. The corn meal dumplings, a little more rustic.
Reminds me of my grandmother's chicken and dumplings. She did roll them out and cut them, but she rolled them thicker and cut them narrower. They were like really thick noodles. Delicious!

I might try it with some chicken thighs, just to be different. Breasts seem too lean to me. (I know, I know.) And I have some wheat-/dairy-free gnocchi in the freezer that I would use instead of the pastry. And I only use white shoe-peg corn any more. It just makes sense.

Here in PA, they would call this chicken pot pie, a Pennsylvania Dutch Specialty. Large pieces of thin pastry, and all.
Oh! ...and, Stellaa, your comment made me laugh out loud.

and Farmer, there are lots of collards and many other greens available in Philly. Some get prepared in the more sophisticated manner, and others end up stewing for a long time with a piece of meat.

e ~ thanks for this recipe. Do you ever feel the need to add some baby peas and/or carrot matchsticks? Probably, you don't, but I can feel that I might.
I made it and took the pictures last night to get it in time for Foddie Tuesday. I thought about adding some frozen peas in addition to the corn just for color, but decided to make it traditional for old times sake. I think tender young peas would be great. My grandmother used to add small red potatoes when she cooked the last half hour of the broth and leave them in. But that is really overkill on the starch. The corn and peas are also starchy but they bring a little more nutrition.

We often serve simple steamed carrots on the side. You mix them in according to taste. The table service with all the veg does look a lot like a deconstructed chicken pot pie.
I'll have to try this one. I make chicken and dumplings and this doesn't look like more work and actually might be less of a pain than get the dumplings done just right.
This is way interesting. I'm going to try it. I'll bring some to Mom and see what she thinks.

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omg...looks very very tempting...