Dispatches from a Cultural Guerrillera

Colorín Colorado, Este Cuento Se Ha Terminado

Deborah Méndez Wilson

Deborah Méndez Wilson
Location
Denver Metro Area, Colorado, USA
Birthday
August 24
Title
Freelance Writer, Editor
Company
Colorín Colorado Communications
Bio
I'm a fifth-generation Coloradan whose Hispanic/American Indian family roots run hundreds of years deep in the U.S. Southwest. I am a Westerner, through and through, and can't imagine living anywhere else in the United States. The Colorado/New Mexico territory is my ancestral homeland. _______________________________ I am a mother of two and grandmother of one, but don't expect me to conform to anachronistic, enshrined stereotypes of what a woman is supposed to be or do in the autumn of her life. _______________________________ I am a professionally trained journalist who loves to blog, too. I earned my 10,000 hours while working as a daily journalist, and unabashedly worship at the altar of English. _______________________________ Though English is my native language and I adore it, I am fluent in Spanish because I lived in South America for a decade, and revel in the vibrant, haunting beauty of Castilian and Latin American cultures, histories and dialects. ¡Que viva el Español! _______________________________

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Editor’s Pick
NOVEMBER 14, 2011 7:39PM

The Return of the Gringa Reencauchada

Rate: 8 Flag
Playa Arapito, Edo. Sucre, Venezuela, c. 1979
 
I am not an émigré, but I’ve lived the immigrant experience, and see shades of the exile’s double world, where nostalgia and yearning survive untouched by time.
 

HIGHLANDS RANCH, Colo. – It’s the day-to-day things that hit me when I least expect it.

While pushing a shopping cart around my pristine suburban supermarket, I’ll suddenly feel overwhelmed by the dazzling abundance around me: aisles of packaged food, cleaning solutions and paper goods arranged with near mathematical precision; polished pyramids of organic oranges, apples and tomatoes; tidy rows of sliced bread, buns and biscuits; and plastic-encased meat, poultry and fish on hyper-sanitary styrofoam trays. Everything is always there, always available, and always the same.

There are no food shortages, no electrical outages, no mud-encrusted potatoes or yucca root, no tins of government-issued powdered milk, and no bartering in outdoor mercaditos over banana leaves, giant papayas, wrinkly passion fruit, or crunchy casabe cakes. There is no jostling in panaderías to pound bolívares on glass cases filled with fresh bread and sugary palmeras, no clamoring in carnicerías for fresh meat and cheese sliced by the kilo, and no stopping at seaside bodegas to buy syrupy Pepsi Cola to drink with a lunch of sancocho de gallina, fried red snapper and butter-slathered arepas.

These are my “Moscow on the Hudson” moments. In the 1984 film, actor Robin Williams plays a Russian musician who defects while shopping at a Bloomingdale’s department store in New York City. In one iconic scene, his émigré character collapses in a supermarket when faced with a multitude of capitalist consumer choices, including a dozen brands of coffee. I’m not an immigrant. I’m a U.S. citizen, but I’ve lived the immigrant experience.

When I was only 19, I married a young Venezuelan engineer I met in college, and fled to his country, where I tried to outrun my family, my unhappy past and myself. Recently, I read there are 3 million Americans living abroad. The confusing repatriation process some of them might experience after years of living outside the United States goes by a couple of names. Some call it “Peace Corps Syndrome.” Others refer to it as “reverse culture shock.” For those who have not already experienced this phenomenon, imagine reacclimating to your ancestral homeland after losing yourself for years in another part of the world. Merely visiting another country as a tourist for a week or two is not the same as packing up, picking up and leaving your country, your family, your language, your geography, your history and everything else that is comforting and familiar to you to immerse yourself over a long period of time in a completely different country or on another continent.

I spent a decade embedded in Latin America as an everyday citizen. You know the place, or at least you think you do. It’s the United States’ proverbial backyard, the mysterious, untamed, tumultuous, sweltering, corrupt, politically unstable, drug-trafficking, tragic, hopeless, helpless, ancient, backwater of Spanish- and Portuguese-speaking Catholic banana republics south of The Border. Right? At least that’s what many of my undergraduate college classmates scribbled on a survey handed out by one of my political science professors in 1990. I had just returned from a decade of living abroad, and was trying to pick up where I had left off with my formal education. My professor, who sometimes dressed up in fatigues and staged faux golpes to illustrate the forced distribution of wealth, wanted to gauge how much his Yankee students really knew about Latin America. As it turns out, not much.

Pico El Aguila, Edo. Mérida, Venezuelan Andes, c. 1987 

Contrary to my last name, ethnic heritage and appearance, I didn’t speak much Spanish when I arrived in South America in 1979. I wasn’t in the military. I wasn’t a missionary. I wasn’t in the Peace Corps. I didn’t work for the U.S. government or for a multinational corporation. I wasn’t an academic searching for a cure for cancer in the rain forest, a liberation theologian helping stone-age Indians adapt to the modern world, a gold-seeking capitalist, a surfer looking to catch the perfect wave, or an earnest structuralist with a dog-earned copy of “Triste Tropiques” under my arm. I wasn’t a peanut butter and maple syrup ex-patriot who didn’t mix with the natives, or a fugitive on the run. I wasn’t driven by youthful optimism or by political fervor incited by Castro, Ché, the Sandinistas, Evita, The Clash, Cantinflas or any other iconic and assorted romantic revolutionaries, comedians and punk rockers. Unlike the thousands of Latin Americans flooding into my country in search of a better life, I was a U.S.-born Latina who left the richest nation on earth to try life in another dimension. Like Alice through the looking-glass, I crossed over for no other reasons than curiosity, boredom and—love.

I was doomed from the start. My South American novio was not like the boys I’d grown up with. He was handsome, college-educated, adventurous, self-confident and Latino. He danced salsa in a white polyester suit and platform shoes. He had a natural tan, white teeth and glossy black hair that fell to his shoulders in artful layers. His friends called him El Travolta. He looked like a Latin Orlando Bloom, and sang the Alma Llanera with unabashed pride and a sexy Spanish cadence. He was born in Barcelona, Venezuela, near Cumaná, the oldest European settlement on mainland America, and not far from the lush Paria Peninsula, where Columbus planted a Spanish flag following his fourth voyage to the New World.

My novio was not confined by the low expectations, ignorance and intolerance of American Apartheid. He returned to pre-revolutionary Venezuela because he wanted to participate in the “technology transfer” that would help his oil-rich country continue to develop and thrive. “I’d rather be a first-class citizen in my country than a second-class citizen in yours,” he told me in trying to convince me to live in his country for awhile. I wasn’t the typical gringa. I was born on the dusty edge of the Great Plains, and on the fringe of mainstream U.S. society in a small steel town built by the sweat of fur trappers, rebellious coal miners and exalted war heroes.

Isla de Margarita, Venezuela, c. 1983, at old Spanish fort. 

As a U.S.-born Latina, I had grown up rejecting any attempts to put me in a cultural, racial or political box. In Venezuela, I became una gringa reencauchada—an American who had lost her original tread, her cultural markings and roadmap. It was nearly 20 years before the Internet, e-mail and blogging created instant, global communication, and nearly 30 years before Facebook and Twitter made it possible for people to share every thought, move, digital photo and embedded video—by the minute—with friends and relatives around the world.

I was incomunicada, and lived on the Caribbean coastline for a year before moving closer to the confluence of the Orinoco and Caroní rivers, where dark brackish and turbulant white waters converged under rickety barges. There were no personal computers, no digital cameras, no mobile phones, no social media and no global village. I went weeks without hearing a word of English. I waited months for handwritten letters from my mother that contained tattered newspaper clippings and faded family snapshots. Three or four times a year, I spent a small fortune to place international calls just to hear the faraway, crackling voices of loved ones.

I spent a decade—toda una vida—tuning my ears to rapid-fire Caribbean Spanish; poring over Latin American literature; adjusting my palate to new tastes; learning to cook a la caribeña; dancing salsa, merengue, cumbia and joropo; and traveling around the Andes, the Amazon basin and the Caribbean. I taught English, worked as a bilingual journalist, and generally blundered my way through comical malapropisms and awkward cultural faux pas. Along the way, I learned what I loved about my country, and stored the rest in my heart, like a secret garden.

It’s been 22 years since I returned to gringolandia, but I can’t go back to the person I was before. I am not an émigré, but I’ve lived the immigrant experience, and see shades of the exile’s double world, where nostalgia and yearning survive untouched by time.

  

 

-30-

Méndez-Wilson is a fifth-generation Coloradan whose mestizo family roots go back to the early 1700s in Spanish colonial New Mexico. She is a journalist and freelance writer who lives in Colorado.


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I am one of the three million. I cannot tell you how much I enjoyed reading this. Fascinating rendition of your experience and perhaps mine in the future. I have only been on the outside for three years now.

You are obviously a pro. That paragraph that begins, "Contrary to my last name . . . " is full tilt boogie writing, a style that I have a weakness for.

Wonderful piece, and this time I mean it.
How fun to read this, I was carried along by your style. What an adventure! The best ones always seem to start with love, don't they?
@Brassawe: Thank you for taking the time to read my blog. There are so many talented writers on the Salon site, and a lot of competition for everyone's time! Have you written about your expat experience yet? If so, I'd love to read about it. I have a weakness for writing that describes taking someone out of their element, and putting them in "exotic" conditions. Something surprising always happens.
@Just Thinking: You know it!
What a pleassure it was to read this. I didn't spend a decade in Venezuela as an ex-pat, just two years, but that was long enough to birth in me a sincere love for Venezuela and to remind me in untold measure what I love about my own country.

Wonderful writing.
Wonderful writing! I've lived in Israel on and off (longest time 2 years) throughout my life (while American born, Fertile Crescent/Palestine/Israel is my family's origin). I feel completely at home, but still American; maybe that's a Jewish culture thing. Lived in France and Italy for a year each, have traveled extensively, Europe is so different from Latin America. Everywhere is different from Latin America.

There's so much meat and meaning here, but this sentence, "Along the way, I learned what I loved about my country, and stored the rest in my heart, like a secret garden." especially touched my own heart.
@Unbreakable: Thank you. I share your feelings exactly. Venezuela is wonderful - the people, customs and geography - but it's always nice to come home.
@Sally: High praise from a wonderful writer. Thank you. I'd like to think I'd feel at home anywhere, but Colorado is really where I belong. Though, being American alone gives us a strong common bond no matter where we live. One of the things I loved about being an expat was the camaraderie that developed instantly anytime I encountered a fellow American. It went far beyond language, culture, generation and circumstance. I miss that.
The cliché about the biggest culture shock being the one of your home country when you return is true. I was abroad for nine years, almost half of that in Latin America, and everything felt so insular and mundane when I returned.

Your comments about the misconceptions about Latin America also struck a chord. It was the early 80s when I first went there and about all the news I'd ever heard was military dictatorships, revolutions, killer bees and the like. Though it oughtn't have been, it was a bit of a surprise to find there were lots of people leading decent, normal lives despite the dismal politics of that era. I quite enjoyed my time there and am very glad that part of the world was opened up to me.
beautiful, wonderful writing--you should publish it!

As someone who's been living in Europe for 3 years now, I can totally relate
@Abrawang: You are so right about the insular part, and about your recollections about being shocked that everything in Latin America is not about coups, corruption, earthquakes and drug-trafficking. There is so much richness and beauty in Latin America, despite its history of political instability, poverty and other social ills.

@LivinginExile: Can't wait to read your impressions of life as an American living abroad!
Terrific piece. Such a sense of journey and adventure.
I enjoyed reading about your experience. I have lived abroad about a third of my life, and we plan to retire abroad. There's such culture shock each time I leave and each time I return. I relate to that feeling of being an immigrant, altho I am not.
Holy crap we could be hermanas! Ancestry in New Mexico...check. Married to Irishman (mine's from the ould sod, though)...check!, Colorado home?...check!

I WISH I'd had the ganas to head out into the greater world in YOUR way...instead I joined the Marine Corps and was off to Asia.

I loved this piece, and I want to read more about you and your take on life...and more of your adventure as you make your way back into la vida norteamericana.