I recently read an article about the top "tourist traps" and was not surprised to see "Fisherman's Wharf - San Francisco" on the list. As anyone who's every been there can tell you, San Francisco has its share of tacky tourist traps. But despite the sale of really bad Alcatraz t-shirts & Golden Gate Bridge shot glasses, terrible tasting crab soup in a sourdough breadbowl and never ending gentrification, there remains much worth seeing and doing in this great city.

This is my own personal hit list for San Francisco, and in no particular order. 

Day 1: Arrive SFO.  Take BART to your final destination.   Once in the city, you may want to purchase Muni Passports, which are good for unlimited rides on Muni, including cable cars. 3-day and 7-day Passports are good for three or seven consecutive days.

If you have never been to San Francisco, you'll no doubt want to ride the famous cable cars. I recommend you do so immediately upon arrival, and preferably on a weekday. You've been warned about Fisherman's wharf, so please grab a few tacky trinkets if you must, but otherwise don't waste much time here.

 Basically, there are three cable car routes in operation, and it helps to know their respective destinations. At Powell and Market streets, there is a cable car turntable which serves as the beginning stop for two lines, the Powell-Mason and Powell- Hyde lines. The Powell-Mason line begins at the Powell/ Market turntable, and the line runs from there up and over Nob Hill and down to Bay Street at Fisherman's Wharf. The Powell-Hyde line also begins at the Powell Market turntable and runs over Nob and Russian hills before ending at Aquatic Park near Ghiradelli Square. Both these lines end near Fisherman's Wharf, but at different areas, and the routes are significantly different. Paying close attention to the signs on the cable cars will help you distinguish where in Fisherman's Wharf you will find yourself.

  The California Street line runs East-West from the Financial District, through Chinatown, over Nob Hill and stops at Van Ness Avenue. Since all the cars on this line have the same routes, the signs are painted directly on the car.  More about this special line later.

When I was living in San Francisco during the dotcom 1990's, I never took the cable cars. Ever. Most locals don't unless you happen to live directly on one of the routes. However, the historic F-Line is rapidly gaining cable car-like levels of popularity and acclaim. The historic streetcars of the F-line and the E-line—historic electric rail vehicles serving the City’s main artery, Market Street, and its grand waterfront boulevard, The Embarcadero—linking San Francisco’s most popular visitor attraction, Fisherman’s Wharf, with its commercial, financial, and retail centers, and several residential neighborhoods along the route, is one of the best kept secrets.

 Day 2: the Castro. Well, now we're getting somewhere.  Take the F-line to  the end of the line in the historic Castro neighborhood. Afterall, one of the things San Francisco is known for is the work of Harvey Milk and the West Coast gay-rights movement. Sadly, much of the old neigbhood feel is gone, with national chains popping up everywhere. I'll share a few of my local favorites. 

Firewood Cafe 4248 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94114
Sun-Thurs 11:00am-10:00pm
Fri-Sat 11:00am-11:00pm
Tel: 415.252.0999
Fax: 415.252.0250

 This is a great place for delicious and very affordable eats. My favorite is the homemade tortellini with firewood sauce.

Fuzio Universal Bistro
469 Castro Street
415-863-1400

This is a small little spot, but it delivers. Enjoy the cozy atmosphere, and try the fuzio firecracker pork fusill pasta, or the shanghai noodles. 

Castro Theater 

Whatever else you do or see in San Francisco, the Castro Theater is simply not to be missed. You won't regret it, trust me.  This place is a jewel, a gem, and an institution. One step inside and you'll see why.

n 1977, the Castro was designated City of San Francisco registered landmark number 100. It is one of the few remaining movie palaces in the nation from the 1920s that is still in operation.

Timothy Pflueger chose an exterior design reminiscent of a Mexican cathedral. The large windows, the shape of the roof line of the front wall of the building and the plaster wall decorations all combine to convey a look of grandeur in keeping with the large scale of many theatres built in the 1920s. The marquee and the vertical neon sign are additions from the late 1930s, but the glazed tile street foyer, ornate tent-like box office and the wooden doors are all from the early 1920s.

The Castro's interior is very diverse. One can sense Spanish, Oriental and Italian influences. The auditorium seats over 1400 in a fantasy setting that is both lavish and intimate. Both side walls of the auditorium are covered with classic motif murals which were created in a wet plaster process called scrafitto. This type of wall decoration is rare.

On either side of the stage and screen (the small original screen has long ago been replaced with a large screen) are large organ grills. The Art Deco chandelier dates from 1937 when a small electrical fire destroyed the original parchment fixture.

The mezzanine and balcony above it are reached from the lobby by two dramatic staircases which are highlighted by large mirrors framed in gold. Hanging on the walls of the mezzanine are rare film posters. The mezzanine with its elegant older pieces of furniture is often used for film-related receptions and other parties.

From 1922 until 1976 the Castro showed first and second run mainstream films. Then, in 1976, the theatre was leased to Surf Theatres and later to Blumenfeld Theatres. These two chains proceeded to change the exhibition format to repertory cinema, foreign films, film festivals and special first run presentations.

In 1982 the theatre's old Conn organ was replaced by a mighty Wurlitzer organ. Ray Taylor and his sons Dick and Bill began assembling the all-Wurlitzer pipe organ in 1979. The Taylors had to obtain parts for the organ from many different sources. For example, the console came from a theatre in Detroit. The organ belongs to the Taylors.

When the last lease expired on July 31, 2001, the Nasser family again took over operation of the theatre. Under their direction substantial improvements were made to enhance and preserve the beauty and functionality of the theatre.

Some of the improvements include the installation of new, larger and more comfortable seats on the main floor, the seats in the balcony were refurbished, the stage was expanded to accommodate live performances, a new curtain and a new screen were installed, the entire theatre was recarpeted, the walls were painted and the candy counter was updated.

Additionally, sound quality was improved with installation of new speakers behind the screen, new stage lighting was installed, the theatre received a new PA system and the auditorium was wired to accommodate modern audio and video presentations.

The Castro Theatre is truly an acre of seats in a palace of dreams!

 Next: further a field...