Gary Justis

Gary Justis
Location
Bloomington, Illinois, US
Birthday
April 04
Bio
Gary Justis has worked primarily in the area of kinetic sculpture for the last 32 years. He lived and worked in Chicago from 1977 to 1999. He currently resides in Bloomington Illinois, where he teaches and writes stories about his actual experiences. (please take a look at his "Sculpture" link for more info)

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NOVEMBER 8, 2008 1:57PM

The Bridge

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SH bridge 4 dusk

The Chicago River is an artery of great renown in the history of the city, and it connects the lower waterways that lead to the town of Lockport and beyond. Near the old neighborhood where I used to live, the river divides the district, from Chinatown, down through the Northern European neighborhood of Pilsen, and into the South Loop of the Chicago Center.

I had heard a story about horses that walked in a circle down by the Chicago River, in the days before the long winters of severe, cold machine labor. People in the oldest part of Chicago told me about these horses, who had lived and worked on the river in the early part of the 20th century. They were powerfully bred, trained and shoed for sustained exertion to walk in a circle, for hours, down by the water.

I didn’t know why there would have been horses by the river years ago, and I had no idea about the nature of their work. Some details of their tasks were told me by an old Polish woman, whom I had met on 18th Street one afternoon in 1977.

“These draft horses were strong, and they made a house fly. It came up above so many trees, and the children laughed…they still laugh…even after the horses were gone.”

She was smiling to herself. I thought she might be just a little seedy, but I wanted to hear more. Before I could get additional information, the bus came, she boarded, and she waved to me through the dirty back window as it drove away.

With numerous street people wanting attention in those days, I spent little time trying to make any sense of things those folks talked about. So many of them were obviously living in several realities, pulling along invisible lines of souls, with whom they shared the screams and fears of their many predicaments. It wasn’t until later I discovered some of the crazy folks, like the old woman, were articulate to a point where the designation of “Street Poet” could apply,  protecting their savvy, practical nature in day-to-day survival.

I was nonetheless attached to the idea of a house that could fly.



With the small neighborhoods of Chicago, there are always scores of tiny businesses that flourish, especially the grocery markets. These shops keep everyone well satisfied in the trading of gossip, goods and general news. Bertha’s grocery was one such place, an old storefront, where my many Latin neighbors gathered to talk about anything from cars, weddings, and feats of bravery, to visits from saints and other apparitions.

Many neighbors were first generation Mexicans, newly married, excited in a way that made the greatness of their city, our city, discernible in the quiet glory of their accomplishments. I quickly understood that having children was the greatest of these successes.

Most of the children in the neighborhood were bright and friendly. The dour kids were more discriminating, not quick to be trusting, but when they came to understand I had an agenda that was somewhat ambiguous, with a natural curiosity, they became articulate spokespersons. The little leaders directed much of the child’s-play. They always played in mixed groups of boys and girls, unaffected by most environmental issues like weather, mean teenagers and gang-bangers, stray dogs, traffic and demanding grownups.

Easy amblings from my studio could get me to most destinations in the city. I loved to walk, especially in the mornings, as shopkeepers swept the soiled concrete in front of their business. Working people would catch up easily, cradling their morning coffee, nodding at each other with a smile. This was a supremely grand time of day, each person rediscovering a manner to en-girdle the challenges of a new day. I locked all this activity into my brain, hoping it might set a tone for me as well.

When I crossed a vacant lot that sat adjacent to my studio one morning, I saw a group of neighborhood children standing in a small clearing, surrounded on several sides by tall trees, and shorter prairie shrubs. In this neighborhood, the children were fortunate to have lots to play in, away from traffic, with at least some vestige of nature in the many rabbits, squirrels, and birds that braved the inner city.

The children were very excited, shouting, jumping and carrying on in a way I’d not yet seen. Some were dressed in uniforms for school, so I knew they traveled as a group, and it was not some random kid disturbance. They saw me enter the lot. This seemed to increase the excitement, a few of them pointed and shrieked in delighted bursts, trying to direct my attention to the tops of the trees. I looked up,…………..and the astonishment from the   thing I saw turned the children’s commotion to screams and hysterical laughter.

Above the tops of the trees, I saw a house, at some distance on, away from the treetops, suddenly rise up. It slowly stopped its ascent, hovered, with its bottom area partially obscured by leaves and branches, then slowly slipped down from view.

“OK,...Wha?...” I searched my mind for an explanation and a foggy memory started to form.

In that instant the children, all wildly laughing and jumping, ran around the trees, across the lot to Canal Street. I followed, trying hard not to affect the appearance of a chase. At the street’s edge they stopped, I caught up as one of them pointed towards the river.


“Look Mister! Es cool haint it?”


There before us sat a giant, magnificent masterpiece of engineering. A rare “Vertical Lift Bridge.” This was a monster from another age. The Chicago River was crossed by this behemoth. It had two massive steel and limestone towers supporting a long, horizontal span, which held a small house in its center. The bridge had been making this house fly for over three generation.
 
Split-House Bridge 1 copy



“My dear God!...” I marveled at the thought of this industrial wonder and its power to still conjure a miraculous event in the minds of children, and the wayward Street Poets who wandered this quarter.
 


Later that year, I discovered I could walk down into the bridge’s domain, the Amtrak yards, with no harassment from security people. Sometimes I would cross the great bridge on foot, over the Chicago River, taking up a path on the southern end. I always had Alexandra (Alex), my dog, with me. Once we were across, we would turn back north, walking through largely unused prairie, all the way from 18th Street south to the Downtown. This was a peaceful, unspoiled area. I later heard about the local boys in the 1960’s, hunting pheasant in those lower reaches below the bridges. It was difficult to imagine shotguns in the hands of youths, in the city, securing game, while the cops ignored their small adventures.

After some months, I finally discovered the Bridge Control House. It held the electrical switches for the Great Bridge. Charles, the bridge operator, had an old stray dog, which lived in the Control House most of the time. Alex and the strange dog showed a mutual indifference towards each other.

“What’s the dog’s name Charles?” We always searched for things to talk about.

Horse,...and I know your gonna ask me why.”
 
Charles turned to his radio and said something in some strange railroad code then looked at me, waiting for my curiosity to rise.

“OK.” I genuinely was curious.

“Well,… when this bridge was built, there was a turnstile, with two giant draft horses. They pulled the works around to raise the bridge, when a barge was going under. They were named Horse 1 and Horse 2.”

“Oh,…that’s what she meant. Crap!”
 
The street lady’s image came suddenly to mind, but I wanted to avoid a conversation about her, so I stayed with the dog conversation.

“And the dog…is?.....”

 “Right! Horse 3, but we shortened it to Horse…who’s this...SHE?”
 
Charles looked as if he recognized something in my fuzzy recollection. I felt obliged to tell him.

SHE... was this Polish street lady who told me about this bridge.”

“What did she tell you?” Charles seemed to have some information. He  waited for the context of my explanation to take form.

“She told me about the horses making a house fly.”

“Shit!...Heh, heh,...That’s Elizabeth, and she is no street person. She’s the mother of a big-time landlord in this area. Do you live around here? You probably rent from him. ”

“Yes, on 18th and Jefferson. In an old creamery.” I was a tiny bit reluctant to give the address.

“Ooh man! She lives above you, in an old apartment! She sees things.”



It was a strange coincidence, about the old woman. After I thought about it for some time, I came to believe part of the coincidence could be explained if we think of Chicago as a collection of small communities that border a finite body of fresh water. For the most part, it is a Lake Community, where people can come to know thousands of folks in the space of a lifetime. I could probably walk anywhere in the area, finding tons of people who were familiar with, or had dealings with Elizabeth.
 
I knew at that moment the storyteller and supreme sage of the neighborhood’s generations of children lived above me. I wondered if she would talk with me again. I imagined her hovering, like the flying house of her half-made delusion.
 

 
During the first snowfall of that year, I decided to take my usual bridge route to the downtown area. The profusion of flakes falling through the air had a scumbling visual effect on the surfaces of things. The world was made soft, and with the downy presence of the snow, there were no longer any sharp, industrial sounds claiming dominion over the silvery atmosphere.
 
I had Alex with me and we entered the horizontal span of the bridge, crossing the river heading south. When we reached the midway point, I noticed Alex had stopped. She was gazing down at the water below us. I looked down. The water was getting farther away. I looked across the Amtrak yards to the East, and the buildings were changing in their subtle visual perspectives.
 
SH bridge 5 dusk
 
Without a sound, shudder, or any apparent mechanical movement, we were ascending. The action was smooth, with no creaking, no movement that I could detect, only the water moving continually away, as a massive, silent barge slipped under us. We rose what seemed to be a hundred feet, straight up. The Bridge Control House looked so small. I saw Charles and Horse 3 leave the small structure and set off up the chalky access road. I wondered if they knew we were high above them.
 
After a few minutes, as I watched the barge disappear into the whiteness further up river, the bridge began to let us gently down. We moved again, descending to meet the serious swell of the river, through the quiet, soft shades of white. I thought of giant horses, letting loose the best countenance of their weightless cantor, lifting their great backs, then floating us gently down.
 
 
bridge up 6
 

With our fear and uncertainty gone, we made it back to ground level and continued on our way, kicking through the cold powder, our grey shadows seeming to hover over the white prairie floor.

8
 
 
 
Another Bridge Story by an OS writer,  coogansbluf


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Comments

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Gary, I enjoyed your story and photos with that great looking bridge. I often don't see lift bridges like that except for at least one I recall seeing that crosses the Harlem River into Manhattan. So many bridges around this area are either drawbridges or of the rotating type.
The only way this would be interesting is if the Headless Horseman of Sleepy Hollow would ride up and down it throwing pumpkins.
Interesting story. Tbanks for posting.
Thank you for pointing me to this! I have never seen such a bridge ... and I've scrolled up and down at least 20 times just to admire the architecture and the water ... the photos are wonderful! Someday soon, I hope to havea reason to relay your story and its sensory elements! Again, Thank you.
Gary, what a wonderful story! I will surely think of the houses that fly, and of horses slowly walking in circles, the next time I cross the Chicago River. And your photos are exquisite. Thanks.
Neat-o! I suppose that some day some progress-minded Philistinic committee will decide that the city would be better served by tearing it down, but until that day, enjoy watching the house fly (gee, sounds like something the Crows said in "Dumbo").
Hello folks.
Thanks for coming by. I heard some people in the city tried to take the bridge down, but they were stopped by a preservation group. The bridge still works fine,...perhaps better than many new ones. I hope that other folks can take the surreal ride.
Wow, Gary. Great story. Great photos. And greater yet, the manner of it's telling.

And Barricade......thank you! Comedy is good, whether it is intentional or not......whether it is a laugh or just laughable.
Wonderful piece Gary and I can only imagine the time it took for you to share this story with us. A story about a bridge, a woman, you and an entire city. A rich and multifaceted story. And the pictures of the bridge show the elements of all of your piece. Thank you!
I love old bridges and your writing. Excellent combination.
Thank you Mary!
Thank you Shark! It would be great to have winter photographs of the bridge and surrounding sites. It is most beautiful in Winter. The snow and frost suffuses the surfaces and air with white down. Starkly beautiful for an industrial area.
Dorinda, the bridges link more than two shores......
Thanks for visiting!
Gary, you're one hell of a writer my friend. You paint an evocative picture with words. The photos were magnificent and the story intriguing.

You have my utmost respect.
RATED
Gary - I know of this bridge. I have never seen it ascend though. It must be somewhat like a ballet, a great huge metallic ballet, the mid-span the ballerina being lifted by the "ballerino." It's something I'd like to see in person.

In Bermuda, there is a and unmanned swing bridge under which sail boats pass. When a boat comes through whose mast is too tall for the bridge, one of the crew has to hop out, swing the movable span around - it is wood and only a few feet long - and then close it and re-join the crew. It is quite a sight to see from a distance away: what seems to be an un-embodied mast passing through the high rocky terrain. Your piece reminded me of this.

It also reminded me of the draft horses I have known. Patient giants working day and night with little or no acknowledgment except, maybe, on a parade day. Hey, that reminds me, Veterans Day is near.
This evening in SF it is windy and rainy, the streetlights have fuzzy halos of humidity. The cars whisper steadily past outside, tires hissing on the wet pavement. It's just the right kind of weather for a good story, and I'm so glad that I happened on this one! Made my evening.
Love your interweaving of photos and story. This does seem to be Chicago's year.
Gary, I'm here on Saturday evening catching up on reading my friends posts on OS. I'm glad I saved yours for last.

I couldn't help thinking that we weren't too far away from each other when you mentioned 1977. After graduating from Wheaton the year before, I spend a couple of years living in a third floor walk up in Oak Park. (I was scared to death on behalf of my cat Pipkin who loved to lounge on the small formed concrete ledge outside the window. It gave me a scare just looking at her, and I was unable to get close to bring her in, with my fear of heights kicking in.)

It was a nice time. And the apartment was the place from where I departed each evening to go to work...it was the setting for the story I wrote here on OS about my most MacGyverish moment.

Beautiful story and woven just perfectly Gary. I loved how the threads came together at the end. And I'd love to see pictures of your studio.

Best to you always friend.
Gary, I so love your well told tales. And Chicago - I lived there for less than a year in the 80's. I like the social atmosphere. But it was cold, and yes it was WINDY. Perhaps streets perpendicular to the lake was a bad idea? Just a thought. Those streets are much like a wind tunnel.

Anyway - I love this era of industrial design. Even the ugliest machines still had a certain personality and elegance.
Greg, Thanks I enjoy your work too! You have such incredible energy.
How do you keep your momentum? I'm glad you cam by.

Pat, The story you shared is great, and it embodies a mystery for someone who has only been included from a distance. sometimes it's good to keep the mystery.

Sandra, I wish I could visit your city sometime. Your description makes me miss it very much. I used to show work with Kay Kimpton Contemporary. thanks for weaving a magical image, inserting yourself and my story into the scene.

Hello Lea, Yes it is Chicago's year,...."City of the Big Shoulders"

Barry, my friend, It is likely we crossed paths, after all, Oak Park is just a short ride from the Loop. I was there often, going to auctions and visiting Frank Lloyd Wright sites. Chicago and Oak Park are great places to live. Oak Park is especially beautiful, with all the Arts and Crafts Bungalows, and quiet neighborhoods. I want to re-visit your story Barry. I always love hearing from you.

Cherie,
I came from an agricultural environment to one that was gigantic and hyper-industrial. It was a shock. I was amazed at the vestiges of the massive rebuilding projects leading up the the Columbian Exposition of the late 19th Century. A great read is "Devil in the White City" a story that explores the mammoth task of building the White City of the Exposition, set against a parallel story of a serial killer. Riveting! Anyway thank you so much for coming to the story.

G
I loved The Devil in the White City by Erik Larson (he wrote an equally engrossing book about the hurricane that hit Galveston in 1900, Isaac's Storm.) What was so shocking to me was that the Exposition was built to be a temporary thing and that little is left. All those expansive huge bright white buildings built of straw and paste, seems like a waste to me.
Barry,
I understood the present Museum of Science and Industry was rebuilt in limestone. The plaster and paste original was the "Palace of Fine Arts"

I worked in the MSI in the early to mid 80's. There were many unused secret rooms throughout the magnificent building. I was a technician. We did al kinds of things. Some of the people I had the good fortune to work with were immigrants from Europe. Artists, machinists, wheel-rights, etc. The greatest project I worked on was assisting a machinist in the re-building of a WWII German Stukka Dive Bomber. We assembled it and hung it in one of the massive rotundas. The original engineering of the airplane was pure genius.
Pure and simple. You nailed this one pal. Somewhere Studs is smiling.
Yes my friend, our dear pal Studs,....I know he's looking onto the Great Bridge from above.....interviewing a saint or two......
This is an excellent portrait of industrial architecture. It doesn't hurt that I love aerial lift bridges ...
Gary your story, and these great iron monsters takes me back to my childhood - I was brought up by my Grandfather in Glasgow - back then it was a ship-building town. When I went out in the evening to play, my grandfather always told me that I could roam the streets as I pleased but to always make sure I was within in sight of 'the Dragon'. As long as The Dragon could watch over me I would be safe. And sure enough I would always check around to make sure that indeed I remained in clear sight of it.

The Dragon was in fact a huge iron crane down by the docks near my grandfathers place. It was used to hoist steam trains onto boats for export all over the world. But to my childs mind of course, it really was a mighty dragon who would protect me as played in the streets.
The shipbuilding and heavy engineering has gone now of course - as has my grandfather. But The Dragon is still there. Earlier this year I took my girlfriend with me to Scotland for a wedding and as we drove past it, I felt very strange inside. Strange but very, very safe.

Here's The Dragon now - I think you'll like it.
It's huge, it's made or iron and it's a dragon - what's not to like?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finnieston_Crane
Hi Gary:
Just looking at the pictures (which I did first), I thought perhaps this was the bridge near the Merchandise Mart or the one closer to Michigan Avenue. But the house and the rest didn't make sense. So, weird when you are trying to visualize something that you think you have seen, but it is not the same thing at all. I understood well how you felt with the Polish woman! ;)

Then, I went back and started over (like I should have from the beginning) and as always LOVED your story. I love all things Chicago -- it is by far my favorite city. At least, it is a city that feels like a place where I could live and not feel dwarfed as I do in most urban environments.

That bridge is SOOO cool. The ones I had been thinking of were drawbridges -- I have never see a lift bridge. Also, don't think I have ever been in that neighborhood -- did it have a "name"? You know, like all Chicago neighborhoods? I roamed mostly between 200N and 3600 north, from the lake to about 1400 W. The rest -- an unexplored but intriguing mystery!
Great Post!
Thanks Cooper and lalucas,
The bridge lies adjacent to the neighborhood of Pilsen. It is an old area first occupied by Eastern European families,........Now it is mostly artists and Latino families. The Pope, John Paul came there in the 80's, shortly after he was chosen. the people painted their houses. We watched as Pope John Paul sat on the top of his limo, singing to the crowd. He spoke in Spanish, Polish, Lituanian, and English............many people were fainting in the crowd. There was a most uncommon joy in the air........
You have a fine ear for a story. This one put me in mind of James, a street poet I met at the Southern Festival of Books in Nashville. He recited one of his poems (excellent), and said he wanted my book but had no money. I gave him the book and said send me a check when you get a chance. I laughed it off as a loss, but well worth it. Three months later a money order came in the mail, and I realized that James the Street Poet was a far better man than I was.
Tom,
Is the darndest thing. I have done the same thing with cab drivers in Chicago. "Send me the change." "Or please leave the change at 'Chin's Sandwiches', Canal and 18th Street,"........

sure enough, the money is there the next day!
Maybe you'd like an excuse to go back to your old neighborhood? I bet you know someone who lives in Chicago. You could have them phone you when there's a substantial snow and then drive the 2 1/2 hours there to photograph the bridge for your book. The book you're working on. Right? Paws up.