
That’s me talking to the photographer, Steven Gross, over one of the many breakfasts we shared at Chin’s Diner, at Canal and 18th Street, on the south side of Chicago
© 1982 Steven E. Gross Chicago
I had finally found a suitable studio and hauled my things all the way from south-central Kansas. The move into the charming old creamery in South Chicago would be more difficult than I had imagined. I was wary of everyone around me after much of my car’s contents had been stolen several weeks before, when I had made my first visit, scouting parts of the city for a rental I could afford. The area of the theft was the Gold Coast, a fancy Chicago neighborhood in the North Loop area of downtown where I had found a nominally priced hotel room and truck storage for two nights prior to the thorny part of the move.
I was finally settled in the new studio after two more days of watching the neighborhood kids eye my stuff. I realized I was in the roughest neighborhood I had ever seen. The studio was eighteen blocks south of the Loop. The surrounding houses were small, worn down, and a major highway overpass divided the entire area. There was a continual rumble in sound and vibration from the busy elevated highway. Exhaust and mixtures of soot and tire rubber seemed to hang in the air, leaving a flocking on the surrounding surfaces, both indoors and out.
Rats were brazenly scurrying around the heaps of trash that piled against the various abandoned building fronts, and on the barren lots. Groups of rowdy boys would launch eggs, bottles and other projectiles at passing cars, then disappear between the buildings and among the wrecked cars as the driver-victims screeched to a halt. Commuter retribution was never successful, with no help from the authorities, or residents.
I saw several incidents, and the fear of reprisals was so great that I never came forward. In my mind, I was the worst sort of coward, paralyzed by a fear I had never experienced. The toughest of the kids gave me hate-stares and yelled threats, but never approached me when I froze on the sidewalks, then a kid from the neighborhood poked his head into my studio one day, and I found I was being noticed in a different way.
Julio was thirteen years old, but the marks of his jagged life were immediately apparent in the way he spoke. His parents were Puerto Rican, but he had been born in Chicago.
“My cousin Beto said to stay away from that ‘white guy’…hey I’m as white as you man!”
He handed me half of an ear of roasted corn. “Eat man!...eees good haint it?”
It smelled really good. I remembered talking to the Mexican street corn vender a day before, watching the kids gather around him. I took the corn from Julio.
“That’s good…man! Really good…thank you.”
“Heh! White guys eat maize just like us!...Oh!, oh!…what time is it?”
“It’s 2:30.”
“Gotta go man! My ass is grass man!” He walked towards the door.
I laughed. “You know, gringos say that. ‘My ass is grass.’”
Julio stopped. He turned and gave me a strange, ironic smile.
“You white dudes don’t have asses!”
This kid held the extraordinary quality that all the neighborhood kids shared. It was the gift of curiosity as a prequel to the inevitable jading after passing their eighteenth birthdays. I wanted to rescue Julio, but in whatever humanitarian design my immature mind could invent, I would always be reminded there were thousands of others.
I found out later the local priest was having conversations with various parents in the neighborhood, persuading them to rein in their kids and stop the car assaults. In this neighborhood, when the church did any outreach, the parents listened, and for some reason, the kids thought I had something to do with the priest’s efforts. I wasn’t Catholic, but just like the priest, I was a “white guy.”
In my imagination, I pictured strife and familial cruelty against the aspirations of countless kids stifled by the curse of poverty. The streets were grey, except for the occasional accidental hues and textures of discarded products, cigarette butts, and broken glass. There were stray dogs, scraggly and frightened, urinating on the corners of buildings as residents threw rocks to chase the furry vagrants into the next block. Despite the Church’s good intentions, how could a kid crawl out of this hollow pit of hopelessness?
I felt as if Chicago was stealing the bulk of what was left of my confidence; the city had dumped the remainder into the streets and gutters around my dwelling in this old neighborhood. I was nearly paralyzed with a strange foreboding. Homesickness was cutting a hollow place in my gut. I woke up with it every morning, and over my tea, I fantasized on the ordeal of my parents receiving my lifeless body back in Kansas…an unsuspecting victim of my over-active imagination about Southside Chicago Gangsters.
On the fifth morning, after showering and a meager breakfast, I made my way over to the bus stop, eyeing the groups of men who gathered outside my studio. They were darker than me, speaking and yelling in Spanish. To my naïve mind, there wasn’t any doubt they had malevolent designs and thought only about battering me into some unrecognizable mass.
In the center of this group, Julio stood speaking loudly in Spanish and gesturing in my direction.
“Strange” I thought.
I tried not to catch anyone’s gaze, but in an instance, one of the heavily tattooed guys caught my eye…
He leaned his head slightly and his face opened into a broad smile. He nodded, and spoke a short salutation in Spanish. The other men turned their gaze towards me, and all smiled, nodding…a few of them waved. Julio looked at me, grinned, and gave me a winking nod.
I took a long breath…
Little things can melt fear. The simple, collective “hello” was like a current from a warm ocean, enveloping me wholly, allowing a return to normal breathing. The very texture of the grey streets seemed to soften, with nary a truck’s rumble, nor noxious belches of fouled air. The sky was ever blue…so incredibly blue.
As I looked skyward, tracing the course of a strange, low cloud, Julio and the other men followed my gaze. Some of them chuckled, pointing up, and others looked in my direction, nodding and grinning. The cloud became an oval, and then smoothly formed a gigantic ring that seemed to encircle the grey morning moon for an exquisite chance moment of visual perfection. I could hear several men gasp at the amazing vision.
We all stood mesmerized for a long moment, and then saying nothing, I waved as I passed on. The man closest to me grabbed my hand and shook it. His dark eyes were of polished opal, and I could see them well up, banishing the last remnants of my fear. I marveled at the miracle of the morning sky. Things were really okay…
My unease was gone. I smiled back at them, turned again to the dirty sidewalk, and a small hope took hold of me in the brilliant morning light.


Salon.com
Comments
TMI?
John
John, No, not TMI...it makes sense the least expensive paint goes to the areas with the least power and political importance. It's more the norm than not...occasionally a good soul will come forth, doing what they can to spread hope in these neighborhoods. In some ways, cities are learning beautification, on all levels, is good for business and the general welfare....
We all share the same sky.
Our all-white band once played a black and tan called Bellman and Waiter's Club in Battle Creek, Michigan. Damn right I was scared, and damned right the audience was hostile -- until about halfway through the second song, when they collectively decided these white boys could play. The dance floor was filled the rest of the night, and the air was filled with praise coming from people who understood that we "got it" and had courage enough (just barely enough) to play it where we weren't "supposed" to be.
It was a lesson to me in so many ways.
I love your story. I can see you and your other musicians charge on after seeing the character of the audience change in your favor. It's one of those common miracles. Thanks for the comment Tom..good to see you...always.
HUGGGGGGGGGGG
Linda, Thanks for your sweet comment on the writing. I'm trying to write better every time, trimming things....I tend to over embellish otherwise. This was a story percolating for a while...
Went to his graduation the first week of October and rode the train south to the end of the line in downtown Chicago. To me, it was just overwhelming, like 100 Kansas City's thrown together in one spot. And,well, scary..
Your story is great, the fear and then acceptance in fairly short order. Thanks for sharing my Kansan friend.
... the idea of melted fear is powerful
Very solid piece.
By the way, I think you meant to "fantasized" not "fanaticized" regarding your parents. FYI in case this is a typo and not me misreading it.
-rr-
Communications, they still migrate north. Then they go to Petoskey for the Summers, giving local law enforcement a new set of problems.
Trig, thank you so much, I appreciate you coming around. Great Lakes is lucky to have had Eli…I know you miss him. They grow up so fast.
Wow you went to the end of the line…you saw all examples of humanity! Glad you survived. Your welcome, and again, good to see you fellow Kansan!
Cathy, I have missed you..it is mostly my fault not keeping up and all. I am very happy you read this piece. I love your feedback and positive comments. Hope you and family are having a fine new year. I believe things happen for a reason, and many years after the fact, the events still inform our decisions and behavior. Thank you friend..oxoxo
Chuck, I was thinking a lot about your great work lately. Thank you for your comments, and for your excellent art in conveying your ideas. I hope you are well, and I am very happy to see you come over to see these scribbles. Be well Chuck.
Nick, thanks…I’m trying to grow in a good way, following your examples and examples of others on this forum. Thanks so much for coming by to read.
Dunniteowl, I sent you a pm and thanks for the visit with the correction…..wow, it really was a strange oversight! Thank you for the kind support, it is so meaningful to me.
GHung, I hope all is well in Chicago for you and family and friends. I like the things you post in your cyber-life. I hope we can get some coffee some time on Michigan Ave, and talk about art and writing. Best wishes!
Ms Shea, You are very welcome and I’m happy you cam over to read…
dWhite , you are welcome and a big thanks to you for the very kind words.
David, You made me tear up with your window piece. It inspired me to finish this one. Thanks for your kind support, and believe me. I never would have thought so many good folks would say positive things about these stories. I’m really touched by everyone….I hope I can see “Almosta Ranch” some day. All the best to you and family David.
Very rich, dense and poetic.
How are all of your photos so magical? It's so Bill Viola...in his philosophy, I mean. (I've told you before that he thinks our subconscious is imprinted into shots we take, and I believe, shots of us.)
This is New Yorker worthy, quality raised by a real layered and multi-subject narrative. Bravo.
Having lived with Kings and Thieves and I can tell one and all the best receptions you'll get are in the Hood, outside of the thugs the friendliest people one could meet on average ... good luck getting a similar reception moving into millionaire's row ...
You remind me of leaving a friend's place in Woodlawn, loading surfboards on the roof of the car on the South Side to go surf the Gold Coast- and instantly surrounded by the neighborhood kids, unable to contain their curiosity and excitement; still children for that moment at least.
Aloha Kakou
For the first time in its history, a huge sculpture of an Olmecan head left the Mexico and was loaned to the Museum, courtesy of the Mexican government.
The street is lined with great Mexican restaurants. Quite a change from the Polish, Czech, German, Irish neighborhood it was almost 100 years ago.
Rated Highly
Chicken, that’s a kind comment and appreciated the way you value the miraculous moment. Thank you
Maria, It is gratifying when someone tells you they feel the experience was made palpable in some way. Thank you for your thoughtful comments Maria..
Beth, The magic of the lead photo belongs to Steve Gross. We hung together in the 80’s. He is one of Chicago’s most beloved documentary photographers. He’s brilliant, and we shared quite a few experiences. We carried a large sculpture to the Indiana Dunes one evening. I thought at first it was a crazy idea. But he turned it into one of my most cherished portraits. We admired each other’s work and traded through the years. Thanks for coming over Beth…I love scrolling down and seeing that scarlet portrait of you that I adore so much. Thank you for your constant support and encouragement. It’s so important to me. You have been a wonderful mentor in many ways…..
Lunchlady, Thank you..I’m relieved the parts started to fit so well with the last edit.
It was hard to remember some things, but I have my journals.
Thank you Little Kate, that’s a very thoughtful comment.
Oahusurfer, wow. I’m very touched by your response to the story. Yes, the good folks in the hood were saintly in a way…they had to be to balance the other stuff. There were all types and backgrounds, with many Slovaks and Polish folks who had never left. Thank you…
Bikegirl, You are right, and I’m glad I didn’t hightail it back to Kansas…
Dorien, thank you!
Dianaani, good to see you always. There was a little bit of wisdom back then…but then I’m not telling you about the screw-ups, and there were a few! I was fortunate to make friends with the tough guys right away, because I knew not to judge them. They were always amazed at how relaxed I was with them. It put them at ease as well.
Hello Julie, thank you young lady….maybe that’s true sometimes, when I’m not standing in lines…
Cheval, Yes, I went to the first reception there. My friend Jose’ was on the board. It is a marvelous museum! I always ate at Nuevo Leon on 18th street. I used to walk from Jefferson Street. I miss the Machacado ala Mexicana…pulled beef with eggs…Yum!
The last few times I went to Pilsen, I noticed so many young people were staying in the hood. They are all politically active, educated and engaged. I love the atmosphere, with coffee shops and other businesses. I miss it terribly…
Places will surprise you if you try to not judge, and observe the nuances of what people are really saying to you….
Thank you Cedar!
Michelle, Mine too, I hope I can get better at it with time…thanks for reading!
Scupper, I appreciate that so much..
Littlewillie, Strangely enough, I bought that in Wichita, KS the month before I moved to Chicago. It was kind of a trademark after a while.
Old new lefty, Thanks man…back at you on your work too!
R♥
Dolly, thank you..the kindness and encouragement is appreciated and it inspires.
Dirndl skirt, I hope to work on better blendings of those moods and temperments. Thanks for the great comment.
Greenheron, Hello! Quite few extraordinary things happened in the 23 years I lved in the city. The energy and full tilt emotions seem to attract unusual stuff…..well, maybe at least the city makes on hyper-aware, so there is little that you miss. Talking on the street is a challenge enough with the people you like and trust.
There were a few instances that were violent and never got resolved. I’m fortunate to be around, and fortunate to have lived in this magnificent city during one of the best times in its History.
FusunA, I’m glad you didn’t miss this either..thank you for the very kind comment.
eleanorr, You must know the Pilsen area. It is mostly Hispanic, with some Eastern European folks still in the area. It has always been a controversial neighborhood, being so close to the Loop and all. Believe it or not, there was still bits of prairie in the Amtrak yards up into the 1990's. thanks for your visit!
Sandra, Steve Gross gets the credit for the photos. He tool quite a few in the 80's and they are all good. thanks for the visit, and I am sorry you had your original comment wiped. I'm very happy to see you on here regardless! Best Wishes....ox
visual and verbal brilliance
(and that picture of you is pretty hot/cool as well)
I lived in that God Forsaken, Stephen King deep well of twisted Chicago Land lumpen human facsimile for about 5,000 mornings. I use the term 'human' in its Stephan King sense. Start planning your exit now before it is too late. Run. And do not stop.....
If not to protect your immortal soul, then to at least escape seven months of bad weather.
Thanks again Sandra...maybe so...and at that time, Iwould have been very ignorant about the Beats....
Ej. I didn't see it in the same way you did. I'm sorry to hear it was that unpleasant for you. I do agree the difficulties with a city of this size does grind people down...it was beginning to grind us down and we moved south. Thanks for the comment.
Walter, many times the media paints a picture based on a perception and not much else. After I spent much time in run down neighborhoods, I found the folks to be genuine, devoted to family and totally dependable ( the adults anyway). Thanks so much for your comment!