I am a somewhat rare breed: a vegetarian in New Orleans, land of boudin balls, alligator sausage, and crawfish. (I'm not even a "New Orleans vegetarian," somebody who avoids meat but relishes seafood.) Though many people here gasp when I admit I've never had turtle soup or oysters, I find or make plenty of good stuff to eat.

 In fact, I've put myself to work (with the help of some native friends and various recipe collections) recreating classic New Orleans dishes entirely meatless--but with enough flavor that the meat isn't missed. Those of you abstaining from meat for Lent might find this one particularly useful.

 This is a green gumbo, or gumbo z'herbes, from a recipe I clipped out of the Times-Picayune a few years ago. It's brothy but filling--you can feel the vitality  (and I swear it'll cure whatever ails ya). It's based on a traditional Creole dish made for Lent and Good Friday. Legend has it that you'd have good luck if you ate seven greens and met seven people in one day; other legends say you'll make a new friend in the coming year for every green put into the pot.  Can't go wrong!

If you can't find all of the greens listed, use whatever you can find--it's really flexible.

Gumbo z'herbes

(serves at least 8. probably more; takes a couple of hours altogether to make)

1 pound collard or mustard greens (or both)

1 pound spinach

1 pound turnip greens (optional)

1 pound green cabbage leaves, cut into strips

1 large bunch fresh watercress (optional)

1 large bunch flat-leaf parsley

1/2 tsp. cayenne (also tastes good without)

1/2 tsp. black pepper

2 bay leaves

1/2 tsp. ground thyme

1/4 tsp. ground allspice

1/2 c. vegetable oil (olive might not work)

1/2 c. flour

1 bunch green onions, trimmed and chopped

1 c. chopped onions

1 tsp. minced garlic

3 T soy sauce

1 can red (kidney) beans

Wash and pat dry all the fresh greens. Put the greens into a large, deep pot and add enough water to cover. Add the cayenne, black pepper, bay leaves, thyme, and allspice. Bring the mixture to a boil, pressing the greens down into the water. Cook until the greens are very tender and are falling apart (about 20-30 minutes). Drain and reserve the cooking liquid. You should have three to four quarts. Set liquid aside.

Chop the greens, either with a knife or kitchen shears.

In a large heavy pot or Dutch oven, combine the oil and flour over medium heat. Stirring constantly, make a roux the color of peanut butter. (You really do need to stir constantly cuz it will burn quickly--have your veggies chopped in advance and give it 10 or 15 minutes.) Add the green onions, onions, and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the veggies soften, about five minutes. Add the reserved cooking liquied and stir to blend. Add the chopped greens, soy sauce, and red beans and simmer, partially covered, for about an hour. Adjust seasoning to taste.

This is usually served over rice with French bread on the side--some folks like a dollop of potato salad in the middle of it. Tastes great seasoned with Tony Chachere's seasoned salt and/or Tabasco sauce.

bon appetit!