J W Hensley

J W Hensley
Location
Denver, Colorado, USA
Title
Technical Writer
Bio
I'm a native Midwesterner who traded for the mountains, a vegetarian cook who occasionally hankers for a hamburger, a non-practicing ceramacist, a technical writer who prefers to write non-technically, a wife and mother/amateur zoo-keeper to three dogs and two cats crammed in an 800 square foot house.

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Salon.com
Editor’s Pick
DECEMBER 18, 2008 1:51PM

My Meat Manifesto

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I try really hard not to eat meat. Most of the time I manage to steer clear of the stuff.  This is in part due to the fact that most of the time I eat at my house and I have banished meat from my own cooking regime. It’s difficult not to eat meat though. Not just because of the eye-rolls I get from various carnivorous friends and family but also because meat is everywhere: at dinner parties, at office potlucks and particularly at restaurants. I like to eat out but I get sick of having the choice of a veggie burger (which is fine if the place makes it from scratch, but a Boca burger dressed up is not the same), a black bean burger (same stipulations as the veggie) or some meat dish minus the meat (which removes all the protein from the meal and typically leaves me bloated with carbs and unsatisfied).

 

Primarily, it’s hard for me to not eat meat because my decision is an ethical one and has nothing to do with food preference. I still think meat is delicious. There’s no reward for not eating it other than the sense of personal achievement at having gone yet another day without succumbing. Clean living is its own reward I suppose. But it’s not the same as committing to a jogging regime wherein you see the muscles on your legs get bigger and the number on the scale get smaller. The reward is fairly intangible and seems non-existent when you watch everyone else chow on juicy bratwursts while you’re stuck with a tofu dog that you’ve slathered with too much mustard just so you can choke it down.

 

I won’t waste time here on a rant about meat production because I figure, at this point, most people know there’s quite a bit of unpleasantness attached to mass produced meat. It’s like smoking. People know it’s bad for them and if they don’t choose to quit, well, that’s their business. It doesn’t take much digging to unearth all of the unsavory details about that sickly, antibiotic-laden mad cow meat or the steroidal, bland chicken breasts from the beakless bird. Even that lovely, sashimi style tuna from the fancy-pants restaurant comes with its own over-fished, non-sustainable baggage.

 

Despite the disturbing details I know about meat, I still crave it almost daily because it’s my perception that’s changed and not the meat. It’s still prevalent and enticing. However, each bite I take fills me with guilt. I know it shouldn’t be worth compromising my principles for a tasty slice of salty pepperoni pizza. But then I smell the heavy aroma of crackling bacon, see the succulent spiraled ham or the chicken wings sing to me with their siren buffalo sauce and my resolve melts into the sausage gravy that I ladle on my biscuits.

 

So, like most addicts, I set up a framework of exceptions that allows me to still enjoy meat guilt-free. Or at least that was the idea.

 

Exception one: always eat whatever a host is serving. It’s rude to turn down food that someone else invested time and care preparing. What I soon learned is that no one is typically offended when you turn down meat, quite the contrary, people usually feel bad for not offering meat-free alternative entrees. So I end up feeling guilty whenever I partake in this exception.

 

Exception two: if I didn’t buy it, then I’m not ethically responsible for aiding and abetting the evil meat machine. I can eat meat in social situations in which I have not contributed financially. I can just slip my bottle of wine in next to the spread and enjoy the bacon wrapped scallops and finger-licking ribs to my heart’s content. Except that I can’t, not quite. I feel the same guilt as I do when I justify meat eating as a social grace. I can’t seem to turn off my brain as I munch on meat that I suspect is the product of industrial torture, greed and general degradation.

 

Exception three: holidays are a free-for-all. Holidays are not only food-centric but very specifically meat-centric. You’ve got your Thanksgiving turkey, the Christmas and Easter hams, the Fourth of July bar-be-ques. The only safe holiday seems to be Valentine’s Day in which the whole concept revolves around sweets instead of meats. The most recent Thanksgiving was the first in which this exception lost its guilt-easing effectiveness. I could not help berating myself for indulging in the deep fried turkey. I only had a few bites and it was juicy and delicious and totally unnecessary. There were so many other tantalizing sides that I could (and did) fill myself to capacity without ever eating a bit of meat.

 

Exception four: organic meats are ok anytime. Except for that they’re not, not really. After yet more research I realized that organic meat companies employ a good many marketing ploys and buzz words to trick consumers into a state of pliant delusion.  About the only term you can trust is “antibiotic free” but my qualms go far beyond the chemical mistreatment of the food source. “Free range” doesn’t mean the chickens skipped around in fields of green nor does “natural beef” mean the cows meandered open pastures eating a diet of grass.

 

Even the beef I bought off some guy at a farmer’s market turned out to be “grass finished.” After some googling I figured out this meant the cows ate grass for the last few weeks of their lives. The rest of the time they were fed an unnatural diet of grain. That probably gave the poor animals some uncomfortable digestive issues that would put most irritable bowel sufferers to shame. And, in the end, I can’t really afford to buy organic meat that often so—even when it’s legitimate pasture frolicking meat— the “anytime” still ends up being “not very often.”

 

Exception five: hangovers. Since my first hangover in college I have always craved greasy, calorific foods, typically of the fast food variety. Fast food restaurants are not great for vegetarian options or their vegetarian options are salads which are completely unsatisfying, even nauseating, when I’m rocking a bad, bottle-and-a-half-of-wine-myself hangover. As if the hangover depression isn’t enough, indulging in fast food fare just makes me feel bad about myself and hungover. Besides some places are catching up. There is a barbeque spot just around the corner from me that now serves bbq tofu. Just make the tofu as unhealthy as possible, deep fried and covered in sauce, and I might just be in meat-free hangover heaven.

 

Exception six: Chick-fil-a. Either you get this one or you don’t. I know some people hate it and I know some people are not tempted by fast food. I do not fall into either of those categories and so can be found periodically stuffing my face with grow-in-the-dark chicken meat covered in that mysteriously addictive, slightly sweet crumbly crust. Luckily I don’t live near a Chick-fil-a, so most of the time I’m safe. Most of the time.

 

Despite the fact that my many exceptions were designed to keep me with one foot firmly planted in the carnivore camp, their associated problems have pushed me into being more of a meat abstainer than I planned. Sometimes it bugs me. I don’t like that I have to limit myself to a once or twice a month consumption rate because so many others demand dirt cheap meat three times a day. The meat industry has degraded its standards and disposed of its humanity for the express purpose of cutting costs so that a lot of people can eat a lot of cheap meat.

 

Then, in my more forgiving moments, I think that, even if the animals were properly revered for their sacrifice and meat cost what it should, I would probably eat about the same amount. I would like to treat it as a feast like my hunter-gatherer ancestors who enjoyed meat on a catch-as-catch-can basis. Recently I went to a restaurant with a menu of organic, natural meats from a farm nearby. I paid almost nine bucks for a hamburger and it was the most delicious thing I’ve eaten in a month. It was worth every penny and I savored every bite because I knew I wouldn’t get another one for probably another month. I shouldn’t have too much of a good thing. Which is easier said than done with the holidays just around the corner and a Chick-fil-a a block from my work.

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A most interesting read. I haven't eaten mammal meat in twenty years, because I got to a point where there was nothing that good about it that could make me want to eat it again. But I do miss things like bacon, and sausage(Yves soy pepperoni is not a terrible substitute, but most vegetarian sausage is kind of bleh). And non-vegetarians never seem to understand the chew factor that drives Western meat abstainers to eat things like Boca burgers.

I had problems giving up poultry, and I never gave up fish. Now I've gone back to eating chicken and turkey, for reasons not worth detailing here. But it bothers me. If I had to kill them myself, I wouldn't be eating them. It's a moral mess.
I was a pesco-vegetarian for 7 or 8 years, and for some reason, the thing I craved and missed was pepperoni.

I started eating meat again within a month or two of visiting a slaughterhouse as an observer. Odd timing, I know. I still eat little meat, probably every other day on average.

I think many meat-eaters have the same moral dilemma. We're designed to be omnivores but have some guilt about the meat end of the equation, especially if we can't know the animal welfare was of a high standard.
I'm a committed meat eater, but I definitely appreciate your dilemma. Occasionally I'll think I should eat less, or think about the environmental effects (and the moral effects, to a lesser extent) of my meat consumption. Then I usually get over it. But I think you should not feel bad -- you are far more thoughtful about it than most people (especially me). You should feel good about your efforts.
I've been meat free for about a year and a half now, though I continue to occasionally, guiltily eat fish.

The thing is, and I'm not trying to be holier than thou, I'm just saying, I do not miss eating land animals any more. At all, really. Occasionally a chicken wing, because I do love buffalo sauce, but a place with good seitan wings just opened up in my neighborhood, so I feel set. Otherwise, Thanksgiving just came and went and I had no desire to eat that poor dead bird at all. At first, I really, really missed meat, though, especially bacon and chicken wings and ham (never was a huge burger fan).

So I guess what I'm suggesting is that you try going "cold turkey" (yuk yuk ...) and if you make it through the first couple of months, you might find you don't want meat at all anymore.
I like the way you have stated this issue. I gave up the 'buying end' of meat long ago. I gave up meat by choice. I will eat just about anything offered to me by someone else. I just don't but it anymore.
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Excellent post! I’m a chef and the irony is that ethically raised animals taste so much better than the industrially farmed variety. Free range beef, fed grass and clover and left to its own devices produces a leaner, better tasting and more healthful meat. Argentine researchers have shown that beef of this sort can actually increase good cholesterol. Chickens that wander around eating bugs and seeds produce better tasting eggs and dark meat that is out of this world. Pigs raised on a vegetarian diet of root vegetables, pulses, fruits and nuts have a sweet un-gamey flavor with a nutty aftertaste. And there is no comparison between a “farm” raised Atlantic Salmon or Brook Trout and its wild cousin.

Allowing animals to range freely, while having a tendency to toughen the meat also reduces fat and increases flavor. The animals themselves live happier lives and there is very credible research that stress in an animals life produces hormones that adversely affect both the taste and the healthiness of meat.

Lastly, I’m a firm believer in our need to reconnect with the life cycle of the animals we eat. There is something almost cosmic about raising, killing and butchering then eating an animal. It deepens one’s sense of appreciation for the noble creature that has given its life so we may better enjoy ours.

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There's also something cosmic about not eating a fellow creature that has emotions and thoughts. It sure as hell didn't give up its life to improve yours voluntarily. Calling it noble after you've made it into pot roast is kind of lame.
I also moved from a city to the country and find eating veg in groups to be tough. I've stuck to the veggie guns, but ethically I would be a vegan and cannot justify eating eggs and dairy, but as a matter of taste and especially convenience (neither of which is a good excuse as far as I'm concerned), I eat both regularly. So I rationalize it.

So I think you're doing a good job if you've kept your own kitchen veggie and eating out as little as possible. But as far as cravings go, how long have you been a vegetarian? I was raised eating meat and liked it--certain meat-foods especially--but quit cold-turkey upon leaving home and the 'cravings' pretty much dried up on their own until meat became 'nonfood.' Hate to say it but I think by continuing to indulge occasionally in meat, like a smoker who allows herself an occasional drag, you're keeping yourself addicted. But as long as you're happy with where you're at and your overall diet is plant-based and healthy, you're at a good place.

And Davis, thanks for the token 'plants are people too' post--real original. Guess what, plants DON'T respond to music or emotion. That's pseudoscientific bull. Plants don't have nervous systems and while they do have rudimentary senses they certainly do not have ANY of the machinery of perception. It's ridiculous that this even needs to be said, but even if it were true it wouldn't mean that you don't still have a duty to make the more ethical choice in your diet and take responsibility for your consumption.
Sorry to offend you Davis or for my nastiness. Normally I've always seen the statement "plants have feelings too" brought out to attack ethical vegetarianism. I have strong feelings about that statement because it is in many respects a scientific question.

A man by the name of Cleve Backster has propagated the notion that plants do better when they are shown love and played soothing music. Fact is he's wrong: http://skepdic.com/plants.html
and it is scientifically refutable. I don't really like the "equal time for pseudoscience" view, but if you believe it and you're not criticizing vegetarianism as I assumed you were, then I apologize to you and more power to you.
If you're not for preaching ethics, maybe you could cancel out the fish question.
Right, Mumbletypeg, there's an extremely rational basis for eating only fish, which have relatively undeveloped nervous systems compared to all mammals and probably most if not all poultry true. This would certainly be even more true about molluscs and other invertebrates. But there are ecological concerns too due to overfishing. Nobody said being a utilitarian was simple!

But I guess since Davis pointed out my worldview's disrespect for our sentient plants I should go back to eating cows or maybe take up cannibalism, since there's no shortage of people wreaking havoc on our ecosystems.
You asked about fish to be snippy to Lekkers, who isn't as comfortable as you are about being an omnivore. You aren't comfortable with other people's choices - I get it. That's fine. Stop poking people with sticks and they'll stop poking back.

On the other hand, I'm entirely with you about wanting to see a blog post from nkennedy. I don't like going to see what someone's about and finding nothing.
Mumbley,
My way of dealing with the moral question is lame? This from someone who eats flesh and doesn’t have the intestinal fortitude to accept the violence inherent in that decision “…if I had to kill them myself, I wouldn’t eat them”
Lets muddy the moral waters some more. Do you feel that people who suffer excruciating, chronic pain from auto-immune diseases such as RA, Lupus or Lyme disease forgo the bio-medic preparations that make their lives livable because their manufacture involves the destruction of animals?
I think calling your pot roast source noble for giving you pot roast is lame. If it makes you feel better to label things prettily, go ahead.
I note you neglect to address the issues I brought up. Much easier to deal with two-bit semantics.
Jessica...thank you for sharing...funny, i've been a veggie (aside from fish and eggs which my b-friend says, "those are meat, too...") for the last almost year and most recently have craved meat, as well...maybe it's the unbearably fucking cold weather, i can't seem to stay warm just eating veggably (and i also know how great a raw food diet can be, yet do not really desire to eat salad when it's so cold out and in, inside my body, as well) so tonight i had some chicken because everyone seems to be sick and i don't want to get sick... maybe you might consider mooving to boulder, yeah?
You know I will always add my meat-lust to your moral quandary by giving you a ride to the Chic-Fil-A. Think of me as the little devil on your shoulder.
Per the ongoing fish question in the comments, I thought I would add that I do eat fish that is sustainable. Here is a good site that publishes a guide each year of sustainable fish: http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwatch/download.aspx

Unfortunately, Chick-fil-a chickens didn't make the list so I'm still kind of screwed.

Thanks for reading:)
As a tried and failed vegetarian I don't have any good advice for you except to commiserate. Meat is a powerful addiction. By the way when I dined out I found the mexican restaurants with their vegetables more palatable to the vegetarian than the american style restaurants. Another thing is leave room for snacks and desserts! Vegetarians may be miserable at the buffet, but there is no lack of vegetarian choices when it comes to snacks and desserts. Reward yourself to some nice dessert and snacks when you're able to keep away from meat successfully.
JL Davis:

More accurately, I suppose, "land-animal free."

I can draw a moral distinction without too many contortions between eating (wild-caught) fish and factory farmed animals, insofar as the ghastly processes and tortures of industrial meat farms seem to far surpass the cruelty of the sudden capture and demise of a fish. Now, that having been said, I've read David Foster Wallace's "Consider the Lobster" and all that, and of course, the fish does not want killed and eaten any more than the cow/pig/chicken. I'm not entirely sure that the act, in and of itself, of humanely killing a previously peacefully existing animal is immoral, though -- we are evolved to be omnivorous. Intellectually, I've got more qualms with the "how" of meat slaughter than I do with the concept of eating meat. Emotionally, I tend to feel like a heel when I think of the poor critters living their lives one day and then -- dead, since I COULD have just ordered the pasta.

In conclusion, I do not yet have the will power to give up 1) sushi, or 2) the moules frittes at The Point Brugge Cafe. Personal failing? Perhaps. But I'm ahead of guy who eats a quarter pounder every day for lunch, at least.
When I only ate fish for all those years, I said it was because I was eating "low on the food chain." I agree that their brains are much simpler than those of mammals and their flesh is healthier as long as not containing too many heavy metals. However, their manner of death might be worse than mammals or birds (often slowly suffocate). And of course, there is the lobster issue.

When it comes down to it, there is a moral dilemma any time eating any creatures is pondered, and the answers are not easy to come by. It gets even more complicated when one considers how animals die in the wild (often with violence and suffering). It's rough to be an animal unless you are someone'e well cared-for pet.
My ex-husband calls it flexitarianism.
Lekkers, I have trouble giving up sushi too, but there's plenty of sushi options that are fish- and meat-free. The roll selection is more limited, but you get the same experience. Japanese food is actually really easy for veg options. Udon or miso soup, seaweed salad, an onigiri or some fried tofu, any of dozens of veggie rolls, a tall Kirin, Sapporo, or Asahi, a daifuku for dessert and you have a gluttonous vegan feast.