Long before I was a food writer, I was a writer and a food lover. These were separate things until the food revolution of the past decade occurred. That revolution has been led by people just like me who took their craft and married it to another to produce the new food media. Chefs became travel guides and television personalities. Writers became food writers and script writers for food shows. Television producers and directors have used their talents to take us to places that no studio set can contain.

Television, radio, magazines, online content and movies are now only stopping short at actually giving us a taste of what they tell us about. Today’s food lover can have virtually anything shipped to their home as soon as they learn about it. Recipes no longer simply tell us to brown some meat and throw in a can of “Cream of…” Recipes have become blueprints for almost restaurant-level experiences if we are willing and patient.

Ruth Reichl is, in my mind, at the forefront of this revolution. She began writing about food in 1972. She has since written numerous books, owned her own restaurant, has appeared as a guest and judge on many television shows, has a show called “Gourmet’s Diary of a Foodie” on PBS, was The New York Times restaurant critic, has received four James Beard awards and hosts a live monthly food show on the radio. But, like so many writers and foodies like me, I know her as the editor of Gourmet magazine.

I am sure most of you have heard that Gourmet magazine is no more. Most of us have also heard by now that print media is in trouble, so this may come as no surprise. Gourmet has been a staple of food education in America and it will be sorely missed. Ruth Reichl will certainly continue to be a leader in the world of food and food writing, but the food world will be a little darker without her at the helm of this venerated magazine.

As a tribute to Ms. Reichl and her time at Gourmet magazine, I’d like to share one of my favorite recipes I got from her. It appeared in Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise. I think it’s fitting that the recipe shows that Ruth Reichl doesn’t need Gourmet to teach the world about good food.

Gougères

Ingredients

1 cup water
¼ pound (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1 ½ teaspoons salt
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
5 eggs
1 cup diced Gruyère cheese
Pepper to taste
½ cup grated Gruyère cheese

Instructions

Preheat oven to 375°F.
Combine the water, butter and a teaspoon of the salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until butter melts. Remove the pan from the heat, let cool slightly, stir in the flour, and mix well. Return the pan to the heat and stir with a wooden spoon over high heat until the mixture comes away from the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat.

Stir in the eggs, one at a time until well combined. Add the diced cheese, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper, stirring well.

Drop the dough by rounded tablespoons onto a well-buttered baking pan. Smooth the top and sides of each gougères with a knife, and sprinkle with the grated cheese.

Bake in batches for 25 minutes, or until puffed and golden.

Serve immediately.

(Makes 8 cocktail servings)

The Man and I call these “Cheesy Poofs.” They are absolutely divine and well worth the arm workout!

all photos copyright © 2009 by jodi a. kasten • all rights reserved