Jodi vs. Mrs. Beeton - Failure Tastes Victorian
Long before Martha frenched her first standing rib roast or Rachel Ray opened her first tin of Rotel, there was Mrs. Beeton.
In the 185os, at the ripe old age of 21, Isabella Mary Beeton began contributing household and cookery articles to one of her husband’s many publications, The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine. In 1861, her considerable contributions were bound and sold in a single volume called The Book of Household Management Comprising Information for the Mistress, Housekeeper, Cook, Kitchen-Maid, Butler, Footman, Coachman, Valet, Upper and Under House-Maids, Lady’s-Maid, Maid-of-all-Work, Laundry-Maid, Nurse and Nurse-Maid, Monthly Wet and Sick Nurses, etc. etc.—also Sanitary, Medical, & Legal Memoranda: with a History of the Origin, Properties, and Uses of all Things Connected with Home Life and Comfort.
After giving birth to her fourth child (not to mention that title) in January 1865, Isabella contracted puerperal fever and died a week later at the age of 28.
I have wanted to attempt a Mrs. Beeton recipe here for quite some time. After all, the Victorian aesthetic is intrinsic to my life and work. The measurements and instructions of the time are often no longer workable within modern kitchens. There are food historians which can and do piece together the historic recipes of the past. This is not my area of expertise, but I will allow Mrs. Beeton’s words (in italics) to illustrate my point about measurement:
“In order that the duties of the Cook may be properly performed, and that he may be able to reproduce esteemed dishes with certainty, all terms of indecision should be banished from his art. Accordingly, what is known only to him, will, in these pages, be made known to others. In them all those indecisive terms expressed by a bit of this, some of that, a small piece of that, and a handful of the other, shall never be made use of, but all quantities be precisely and explicitly stated. With a desire, also, that all ignorance on this most essential part of the culinary art should disappear, and that a uniform system of weights and measures should be adopted, we give an account of the weights which answer to certain measures.
A TABLE-SPOONFUL is frequently mentioned in a recipe, in the prescriptions of medical men, and also in medical, chemical, and gastronomical works. By it is generally meant and understood a measure or bulk equal to that which would be produced by half an ounce of water.
A DESSERT-SPOONFUL is the half of a table-spoonful; that is to say, by it is meant a measure or bulk equal to a quarter of an ounce of water.
A TEA-SPOONFUL is equal in quantity to a drachm of water.
A DROP.—This is the name of a vague kind of measure, and is so called on account of the liquid being dropped from the mouth of a bottle. Its quantity, however, will vary, either from the consistency of the liquid or the size and shape of the mouth of the bottle. The College of Physicians determined the quantity of a drop to be one grain, 60 drops making one fluid drachm. Their drop, or sixtieth part of a fluid drachm, is called a 'minim'.
Graduated glass measures can be obtained at any chemist’s, and they save much trouble. One of these, containing a wine pint, is divided into 16 oz., and the oz, into 8 drachms of water; by which, any certain weight mentioned in a recipe can be accurately measured out. Home-made measures of this kind can readily be formed by weighing the water contained in any given measure, and marking on any tall glass the space it occupies. This mark can easily be made with a file. It will be interesting to many readers to know the basis on which the French found their system of weights and measures, for it certainly possesses the grandeur of simplicity. The metre, which is the basis of the whole system of French weights and measures, is the exact measurement of one forty-millionth part of a meridian of the earth”.
Glad she cleared that up, eh?
As I said, the re-creation of Mrs. Beeton’s recipes is the work of another specialty, but I'm going to try it anyway. I'm jaunty like that.
Something simple, perhaps?
How about the usual test of a new chef?
The deceptively simple omelet:
“INGREDIENTS - 6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt (1/4 tsp), 1/3 saltspoonful of pepper (1/12 tsp) , 1/4 lb. of butter.
Mode.—Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3,
and beat them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; (note the complete lack of water or milk)
then add 2 oz. of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture.
Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan (yes, I skipped the non-stick pan for authenticity!), make it quite hot, and, as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. very briskly for a minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm,
and when the whole is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form; and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done.
(The bubbling liquid in the above pan is all butter)
To take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel.
(This step was unnecessary due to my superior pan kung-fu and general lack of a hot shovel)
Serve very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese, allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the latter, to the above proportion of eggs.
I thought I knew how to make an omelet – now I’m not so sure. I added Gruyere, but it didn't help. Do recall that this omelet contains no milk or water to lighten the eggs. It is six eggs, only 1/4 teaspoon salt (I looked up what a saltspoon would measure as) and a full stick of butter. It was completely tasteless, other than the flavor of the butter pooled in the crevices.
Mrs. Beeton - 1
Jodi - 0
Mrs. Beeton would judge me harshly in many other ways as well, I’m sure. Middle-class Victorian ladies often needed instruction on basic household management, social skills, fashion, the interviewing and hiring of help and, of course, the finer points of cookery.
More advice from Mrs. Beeton -
“IF, AS WE HAVE SAID, THE QUALITY OF EARLY RISING be of the first importance to the mistress, what must it be to the servant! Let it, therefore, be taken as a long-proved truism, that without it, in every domestic, the effect of all things else, so far as work is concerned, may, in a great measure, be neutralized. In a cook, this quality is most essential; for an hour lost in the morning, will keep her toiling, absolutely toiling, all day, to overtake that which might otherwise have been achieved with ease. In large establishments, six is a good hour to rise in the summer, and seven in the winter.”
When one is both mistress and servant, I suppose one should rise about five.
Mrs. Beeton – 2
Jodi – 0
Finally, Mrs. Beeton gives us advice about friendships:
“FRIENDSHIPS SHOULD NOT BE HASTILY FORMED, nor the heart given, at once, to every new-comer. There are ladies who uniformly smile at, and approve everything and everybody, and who possess neither the courage to reprehend vice, nor the generous warmth to defend virtue. The friendship of such persons is without attachment, and their love without affection or even preference. They imagine that every one who has any penetration is ill-natured, and look coldly on a discriminating judgment.
It should be remembered, however, that this discernment does not always proceed from an uncharitable temper, but that those who possess a long experience and thorough knowledge of the world, scrutinize the conduct and dispositions of people before they trust themselves to the first fair appearances. Addison, who was not deficient in a knowledge of mankind, observes that ‘a friendship, which makes the least noise, is very often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one.’”
There’s a big batch of wisdom, if I ever heard one. Yet...
Mrs. Beeton - 3
Jodi - 0
As many of us appreciate the fashion, architecture and gentility of the period, we often forget the subjugation of women, the medical antiquity and the backbreaking labor involved in the simplest tasks which we take for granted today.
In other news, I will be accepting applications for the “Maid-of-All-Work” position in my household. The pay will be exactly what Mrs. Beeton suggested in 1861. However, I do have something even Mrs. Beeton could not offer… a microwave.
Mrs. Beeton - 3
Jodi - Electricity.
If you enjoyed this article, please visit my foodie blog where every day is Foodie Tuesday!
Images and recipe:
mrsbeeton.com
The full text of Mrs. Beeton's Book can be found at www.mrsbeeton.com as well as at Project Gutenburg.
It is fascinating, educational and will make you want to wear a skirt that rustles.
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Comments
Special thanks to Barry & Ann for never ceasing to put up with my crap.
and cheese. we can always use a mountain of grated cheese in cases like this.
But the designs for sugar castles and table ornaments are kinda cool. Martha Stewart, eat your heart out!
Chunky monkey - I put a considerable amount of Gruyere on this mess. It was shocking.
Sgt. Mom - I think even Martha would have to admit, without Mrs. Beeton, there would be no Martha!
No wonder she died at 28(!) - eating like that. As always, a great, informative - and humorous - read. We've come a long way, baby (I think!).
M.M - You get the Latin cookie!
"Stand aside, plebians! I am on Imperial business!"
Canis meus id comedit.
Just sayin'
And Beeton should not have scored anything on that omelet. Good post and tags Jodi!
She tells you how to cook calf brains (gently with a silver 10 kopeck coin) , how to make breakfast dishes such as Hazel grouse butter and Hare Cheese (and yes, they contain grouse or hare).
And of course, she carefully segregates recipes for feast day blini, fast day blini (no eggs or butter) and butter week (Mardi Gras for a week before Easter) blini.
Anyway, in Joyce Toomre's version, everything is translated and explained, so you would know who to make calf brains with a silver dime.
Yum!
Way to go all in!
The victorians seem kind of uhhh, stodgy. And they weren't much on wasting the precious salt supply were they? Butter however, was apparently plentiful in those days. Interesting too
how Mrs. Beeton used six eggs, removing the whites of three.
And what is this omelet shovel she speaks of?
Kudos for the research and a very interesting post!
bbd - Ouija refused to touch it. There was some sniffing, then general disinterest.
Malusinka - I suspect that most major cultures have their own Mrs. Beeton. I'm glad no ancient money was needed for this little stunt.
Julie - The very idea of the thing is rather arousing, in a fun, spanky, corseted sort of way.
trig - I am unsure about shovel use in this recipe. It was mentioned, but much like stereo instructions, best ignored if functionality can be achieved otherwise.
1_Irritating_BFF - You love my weird little boots!
ADMIT IT!
Nevertheless, a hugely entertaining and informative post!
mamoore - Everyone should have a cooking shovel. EVERYONE.
surly - Well, at least it doesn't smell like Frankfurters!
JK - No guts, no glory!
Rawr!
Tom - Oh, it was horrific - just terrible!
trig - Food should be entertaining. Boots - doubly so.
MAWB - Seriously, do not try this at home. (At least without a defibrilator) Ick!
voicegal - ::AHEM!::
Jeanette - Glad you liked it!
Did you perchance see the BBC/PBS show, which I think was called "Victorian House?" It was very illuminating, as well.
Thanks for the interesting history lesson about a woman I'd never heard of before.
Two things to consider--one, she was English. I love England and English people, but even today, most English food is bland and tasteless at best and horrible at worst. I know I ate far worse egg dishes than that mess above at the Harlaxton College dining hall.
Two, their butter tastes different. I don't really know how to put my finger on how, but it does.
Nope--it tasted like and had the texture of rubber bands.
I do find Mrs. B.'s paragraph on friends very lovely--and very worthwhile. Especially at a time in my life when I look at the name of some "friend" of mine on Facebook and think, "Who the hell . . . ?"
I thought all skirts rustled....
Mrs. Beeton Ma'am, why don't I have a household like yours?
Rated!
They had just enough window of opportunity(no pun intended as you will see in a moment) shortly before the War to End All Wars (although they did not know it would be quite like that; at least, until the men did not come home and there was a shortage for about a generation;as that did not take place).
The ship building workers went out on strike, not realizing they picked a hazardous time. This gave the suffragette leadership a brilliant idea. Why not form a coalition with Labor which also wanted the vote. That worked. They had more potential votes than the opposition figured that they would have.
Meanwhile, they got up to something, if you consider their style of dress in those days. The little boots. The full length, somewhat Princess, coat, slightly gathered at the back and sewn down well and pressed; the sleeve joined the shoulder with a tiny sort of mutton-chop poof; the collar was small and non-prepossessing so that it was often draped with the fur-tails of some small mammal. Above this, a chapeau like a small battleship, minus the rigging but presenting the impression that it might be in full sail as the ladies sternly marched forward. In their gloved hands, a pocket-book of outsized dimensions hanging on a strap that could attach to a button on your glove.
This disguised the weapon of choice. When they gathered on the street to go off in clusters, apparently to do a little shopping, they would ooh and ahh in front of some large glass display window at the front of the emporium, open their hand-bags and withdraw their quite heavy ball-pean hammers to smash the window.
Then they would disperse, unless they were apprehended by the police who blew their whistles when they descended to cart the ladies off to jail where they were force fed through a funnel if they began a hunger-strike. It was quite awful. Teeth were knocked out in the struggle.
They did however get the vote, as merchants, either drapers or those who hired seamstresses, grew tired of the cost of replacing large front glass windows.
If you have seen this episode on: Upstairs/Downstairs, you know that the cooking was done for them after they had planned the menu, there was a very mature and accomplished cook, a butler's footman who could fetch things, and --was it Rose? who began as a chamber maid and became a lady's maid, but could be called upon to help out in a pinch downstairs in the basement kitchen. Last but not least the Welsh scullery maid (or, as my great aunt would say,"I would have made a perfect scully." She was of course Scots, however. Born in 1887.
Victorian butter would have been made from fresh cream, churned by hand. The butter you buy from the grocery has a very different consistency, far more refined than our Victorian friend's.
1/4 of a LB of butter is a lot, but the cream left behind from Mrs. Beeton's home churned butter would have separated before the heavy fatty part. This would have helped lighten the egg (like adding milk or water), though probably not enough to make the omelette palette-able by our definition!
Personally, I'm thankful that our culinary knowledge has come a long way, otherwise I'd be out of a job.
Thanks for the info (some more dubious than others).
I do agree that the state of my Land-O-Lakes vs. 1860s British butter probably had much to do with the state of my omelet. I was just happy that it didn't stick or burn. I gave Mrs. Beeton the win only on presumed taste. My technique wasn't too shabby!
Juli - THAT is "FatBat" - he shows up in almost all of the recipes I have photographed for this blog. (Do an OS search on "Fatasspalooza" to see FatBat in all his vampiric glory.) He was obtained several years ago in a 75% off bin after Halloween at World Market.
FatBat Rocks.
Dr.
Steve.
Comment.
EVAH!