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Juliet Waters

Juliet Waters
Location
Montreal, Canada
Birthday
August 01
Bio
Montreal writer, book critic, single mom, ex-Expos fan, now rooting for the Portland Seadogs. Currently working on a book about Developmental Coordination Disorder. Also learning to code. Visit me at my new blog: Familycoding.com

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NOVEMBER 27, 2009 1:53PM

Thanksgiving Mulligatawny

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I'm Canadian so we had our Thanksgiving back in October.  But Thursday morning my nine year old son let me know that he was decidedly meh about the Tofurkey slices I'd tried to slip into his lunch that week.   As I was staring at these thin, sad slices of faux meat, I started thinking about all my OS friends and the fabulous turkey dinners they would preparing and enjoying all day.  Then I started feeling kind of lonely and really hungry.  And that's when I got the idea to renounce my ridiculous vegan aspirations, and spend the day  inventing a fabulous leftover recipe that would be waiting for them  when they got back.

This is really only  half invention, since turkey mulligatawny soup is  a leftover feast tradition in my family.  But we usually have it the day after Christmas (or Boxing day as we call it in The Commonwealth), and we tend to have it with our  golden white yukon potatoes.  I knew sweet potatoes would be excellent in mulligatawny, but I did feel a responsibility to try it out first. Plus I was hungry, and was going to need pictures and an excuse to drink. 

Mulligatawny, if you've never heard of it, is your classic Anglo-Indian dish. At some point while the Brits were pillaging colonizing India, someone got the idea to fuse the two cuisines together and the results, when done right, can be awesome.  (When not awesome,  the Brits pretend they are anyways, or make some condescending remark about how real countries don't care about food.)  There aren't that many things America lost out on when it decided to have its own country. But had you stayed,  you might be able to put this can of Heinz Mulligatawny in your "trolley" for only 82p. 

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It  might seem a little against the grain to follow up American Thanksgiving with a shout out to one of the few good things to come out of  the British Empire.  But now that you've successfuly stolen Hugh Laurie and made him your own, I don't see why you  can't do the same with this exceptional leftover feast soup. 

And  anyways mulligatawny is  more of a concept than an actual recipe,  so you can fuse into almost any national cuisine.  I'm not big on recipes. If you want one I recommend this one from epicurious as a good standard.  Instead I'm just going to give you the essential rules to avoid disaster.

1. Color combination. The base of a great mulligatawny should be a golden yellow or orange puree.  So the first stage should only involve ingredients that won't mess with that color scheme.   (If you're ambitious you'll want to boil down that turkey carcass into stock.  But if you put anything green in there make sure you strain it out first.)  In this stage you combine  sauteed onions, garlic, RED (not green or brown) lentils.  If you have any leftover sweet potatos, or potatoes of any kind  this is where you throw them in.  (Or you can skip potatoes and serve it the traditional way, with rice).  Mess with this rule and you'll end up with something that might be tasty but will resemble a big bowl of  bird poop.  And nobody wants that. If you're throwing in cooked potatoes, or leaving out potatoes, mush stage is usually about 20 minutes.  Closer to an hour with raw potatoes. 

 2. Use the best quality curry you can find.  Top choice if you can find this is about 1/2 a  jar of Patak's.  This is a British based curry company that makes a much better wet curry mixture than you will every be able to make on your own.  Most recipes recommend their tikka mix.  I happened to have half a jar of biriyani mix in the fridge so I used that.  You can probably use just about any of their mixes except vindaloo, which is generally too hardcore for anyone not raised on curry.   If you can't find this, or any other anglo-indian wet curry product, then plan B is the spice combination in the above epicurious recipe.  Commercial curry powder should be your last choice but make sure its not more than a year old, and consider grating in some fresh ginger, or toasted, ground coriander seeds to make it a little special.  (Tip: to avoid a house stinking of curry, throw it in towards the end of the mush stage.)

3. Balance your flavors.  The best mulligatawny is a perfect fusion of sweet, savoury, spicy and tart.  If you're throwing in candied yams, then you might want to hold back on the coconut milk, and increase the tart ingredients, which can include:

  • granny smith, or any tart apples (peel them first if you want to throw them in at the mush stage. But save some for a nice garnish)
  • Unsweetened cranberry sauce. (If you want to think ahead and use this for Christmas check out this delicious Canadian Spiced Cranberry Chutney recipe.)
  • Lemon or lime, added in at the END to make sure you get the right balance.

4. Last things Last. Coconut milk, lemon or lime juice, and anything green (leftover string or wax beans if you must) go in at the last minute.  There are  all kinds of great garnishes you can throw on here too.  Peanuts or almonds are good.  Yogourt if you've gone a little overboard on the sweetness. Pour yourself a small bowl and experiment if you're not sure. Oh yeah, and finally the turkey.  Don't cook this at the mush stage. You want nice meaty chunks.

Now, while I'm tempted to recommend champagne for the bonus points,  THE single best drink with any Anglo-Indian meal is beer.  But if you're still feeling a little stuffed, or watching your weight, enjoy a nice imported British beer, without the extra calories, by pouring it into a champagne flute. 

Bon appétit! (Yes I know this is not an Anglo-Indian expression.  But as a native Montrealer I'm allowed.  Next year: sweet potato poutine.)

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With a good curry and some coconut milk, you can probably overpower even marshmallows. But I know what you mean.
Who knows. But I doubt very much Brits invented it. At the very least somebody invented it for them. But it's kind of like asking who invented salad. There are so many different combinations that it's impossible to trace.

I don't think of Anglo-Indian food as a Raj thing. Although some of it would be. There's such a huge East Indian population in London, I think of it more as a natural fusion. Kind of like Tex-Mex. And Patak's is a really good example of something that is really high quality and indigenous to London.

But I'm not expert. That's just my take.
I don't think the Marshmallow People would click into a recipe for mulligatawny, Stellaa. Rated even though I DESPISE sweet potatoes and made them only to humor Mr. Remedy. :-)
Verbal. You do NOT have to use sweet potatos. Or any potatos. It's usually not even made with potatos. But it's a great way to get rid of them!
Love the soup. And Stellaa, those who worry about the origins of all things other-nation are themselves engaging in a kind of purist exoticism. My Indian roommate from college used to love to tell Americans like this about how the scar on his arm came from a tiger attack (he cut himself on a dare when he was drunk). Weird isn't it, how multiculturalism, like almost everything, did not start here?
Very appetizing! This is much better than a recipe, full of good ideas, and I like your choice of beer to go with mulligatawny too. Rated.
Marshmallows blech, no, no, no. Bourbon! Only this year there was no bourbon in the house so I subbed Canadian whiskey. Good choice! Put the appropriate amount in a pan with equal amount brown sugar, heat it up and flame it. Add the same amount of butter when the flames die down and pour it over your baked, peeled, and sliced yams (Garnet). For my casserole this was 3/4 cup of each.

I think this would go well in your mulligatawney and now I'm torn between making that or my regular soup. Hmm, maybe I could put the leftover apple pie in there, ya think?
Wow. With the right beer you've got yourself a leftover boilermaker! (my champagne score is plummeting as I type this.) Save the apple pie for dessert. It'll be a perfect follow up. But if you have any leftover apples by all means throw em in.
@ stellaa

i gather that before i was imported, my inlaws weren't even serving sweet potatoes because they were so morally opposed to marshmallows. do most people really do that?
WHY did I have to read all of this as I'm just about to go to bed???? Now I'm hungry!
I've eaten mulligatawny a few times in restaurants but never knew its origins so that was fun to find out. I may even take a stab at this sometime, as I know my Indian-food loving partner K would love it....
Sounds yummy, that's all I can say...
Can you please repost with a recipe-style breakdown? I really want to make this but I'm a real simpleton in the kitchen. It looks and sounds delicious. And congratulations on winning the OS recipe contest!!
Thanks for stopping by, everyone. DCV, there's a link to an epicurious recipe in there. It's pretty much like mine. And quite simple. Better than anything I'd put together, believe me.
Thanks. My mouth waters. What a treat!
Made a double batch for a do tomorrow night. I was a little heavy on the chili powder owing to uncertainty about it's potency. Managed to soften it a little. You're directives were a major help. Wow, it's so good. Thank You.
I'm a little late to the party, but just as happy to have learned a new word and a new dish. You're absolutely unique, Juliet -- in the best possible sense of the word. Bon Appetit!
I would love to write and say what a great job you did on this, as you have put a lot of work into it.Unfortunately, I’m not sure how to leave a comment…. Honeymoon Packages