Connaught Dining Room, Ashford Castle, County Mayo, Ireland, the setting for one of the most memorable and delicious meals of my life, a traditional five-course Irish meal starring crubeens.  (photo: Ashford Castle)

One of the most memorable meals of my life was in Ireland.

I know, I know.  Irish food is supposed to be terrible.  But it isn't.

Actually, in the culinary arts as in many areas, the Celtic Tiger has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years.  Talented chefs are working across the Emerald Isle to produce marvelous, mouth-watering fare beyond the stereotypical corned beef and cabbage and pub food.

The meal I most enjoyed was a five-course meal at Ashford Castle in County Mayo which featured at its heart crubeens and finished with traditional rhubarb fool.

It was my first experience with crubeens.  If I'd known what they were in advance, I might have turned up my nose.  As it was, it turned out to be reminscent of that famous restaurant scene in "Chariots of Fire," where Alice Krige tells the waiter to bring her favorite for both of them, and Ben Cross, nodding, discreetly leans in to her and asks, "What have I ordered?"

"Pigs trotters." 

Alice Krige, left, who unforgettably introduces Ben Cross to pig's trotters in "Chariots of Fire." 

I have yet to find a recipe anywhere that seems to match the crubeens I had that night.  These were not crispy pub fare, but melt-in-your-mouth like the softest of bacon, and seemed to have been simmered in wine and very delicate spices.  I won't attempt to post a recipe, because none I've found come close. 

However, for sheer entertainment value, Irish food blogger John Connolly's delightful reconstruction of his attempt to cook crubeens (complete with photos)  is not to be missed.   

Instead, here's a recipe for a traditional Irish dessert, rhubarb fool:

RHUBARB FOOL 

*Take about 4 stalks of rhubarb, chopped, and place in large saucepan.  Cover with approximately 1/4 cup sugar (more or less to taste), and drizzle with white wine or Grand Marnier.  (Alternately, the rhubarb and sugar can be baked and softened in an oven at medium heat.  Omit the liquid.)  

*Bring to a simmer and heat through gently until rhubarb softens, just a few minutes.  Cool.

*In a chilled bowl, whip one cup heavy cream until soft peaks form.  Add a teaspoon of vanilla (or Grand Marnier, if you didn't use this in cooking the rhubarb).

*Gently fold the chilled rhubarb into the whipping cream, loosely, and serve in glasses.  Garnish with reserved rhubarb liquid, berries, mint or edible flowers. 

Sláinte! 

 (photo credit: The Real Epicurean)