Laurel, not Lauren

Laurel, not Lauren
Location
Marin County, California,
Birthday
November 22

Laurel, not Lauren's Links

Salon.com
DECEMBER 21, 2008 3:35PM

Posts vanish and friendships fade, but fruitcake is forever

Rate: 15 Flag

Season’s greetings, dear friends, from my little corner of cyberspace to yours.  If I’ve been neglecting your posts lately, please accept my sincere apologies.  Due to extenuating circumstances, my OS time has been severely limited these past few weeks.

Every year, right around Pearl Harbor Day, I am seized by an irrational yet utterly irresistible desire to start churning out massive quantities of homemade fruitcake. Don’t ask me why; I suspect it may be genetic.  My mother was a fruitcake baker, and her mother before her, and probably her mother’s mother before that.  In fact, I would venture to guess that the women in our family began their tradition of making fruitcake sometime during the dawn of the Neolithic Era.  And who knows, a few of those dense, fruit-studded loaves may still be kicking around somewhere.  As any connoisseur will tell you, fruitcakes, like people, grow more complex and interesting with age, especially when helped along by the judicious application of rum or brandy. 

Every year, I make 17 pounds of fruitcake, completely from scratch, and I mean scratch.  I even candy my own orange peel and citron, a sticky mess of a project that always seems to coincide with that exact moment in the insect life cycle when all the ants in our yard decide it’s time to break camp and move into my kitchen.  Ants adore my fruitcake, which, sad to say, puts them in a distinct minority around here.  My husband, who’s strictly a chocolate guy (B-O-R-I-N-G), loathes the stuff.  Last year, he insisted on using his allotment as bait in the thirty mouse traps we have in continuous operation down in our basement.  Not such a good idea.  The mice ignored the fruitcake entirely, leaving it for the ants, and just licked off the booze.  It was a party they’re still squeaking about in rodent circles.        

Did I mention that I also grow the oranges and citron?  From my own trees?  Doing things the hard way is expected in this little pocket of rural utopia we call home; I also knit sweaters from recycled dog hair and raise my own eggs, from actual chickens.  Which may explain, at least partially, what’s gone wrong with my grand scheme to write a novel one day.  I first knew my literary ambitions were in serious trouble the day I found myself rendering my own lard, an arduous endeavor involving huge cauldrons of bubbling pork fat whose mere vapors can elevate one’s triglycerides to dangerous levels.  But who cares!  Because homemade piecrusts made with hand-rendered lard are so, so delicious!  Tender, flaky…almost as good as the Marie Callender pies you find in the frozen food aisle of most major grocers.  Unfortunately, local palates have evolved to the point where we can detect high fructose corn syrup and partially hydrogenated cottonseed oil in dilutions as little as one part per billion, so cheating with store bought is, alas, out of the question.

To say that we’re a little obsessive about what goes into our stomachs in this part of the world is like saying that Cher has a casual interest in cosmetic surgical enhancement.  For us, the cultivation, preparation and enjoyment of food is almost a spiritual thing; sort of like being Presbyterian, only instead of Judeo-Christian-type monotheism, we’re more into heirloom varieties of zucchini and free range chicken.  The Lamb of God may be fine for some folks, but the lamb of man, sustainably raised on organically-certified pasture, marinated in pomegranate juice, then rubbed with fresh herbs and grilled over mesquite to the perfect degree of doneness is, for most folks around here, as good as it gets in the way of transcendent experience.

As a matter of fact, outside the local Hispanic population, which single-handedly keeps the area Catholics in business, and a small band of elderly Unitarians, I don’t believe we have any residents who regularly attend traditional religious observations.  Beyond the worship of food, the rest of us tend to gravitate towards the more mystical Eastern faiths, belief systems that involve things like karma and dharma and copious amounts of whole grain rice.  Our homes are easily identified by the Tibetan prayer flags we like to string up over our vegetable beds, hoping perhaps for the miraculous to occur:  a tomato that will grow in our nearly continuous  summer fog.  So far, at least in my case, the flags have proven to be purely decorative.  You might say they’re Northern California’s answer to the concrete lawn goose.

But wait a minute…I’m supposed to be telling you about fruitcake.  For three weeks now, I’ve been lining loaf pans, sifting flour, measuring spices, chopping fruits and nuts, creaming butter, pouring molasses and, as I mentioned before, candying citrus peel.  Even for a galley slave like me, producing seventeen pounds of fruitcake is the culinary equivalent of running a marathon, only instead of a toned body and cholesterol in the low 130s, all I’ve got to show for my efforts is a standing appointment with my dentist and a lot of neighbors who avoid me at this time of the year.  I guess they’re in my husband’s camp, too.  I don’t understand people who dislike fruitcake.  Nor do I understand myself for persisting in making it.  The pleasure, I’ve come to realize, is in the creation.  Fruitcake, come to think of it, is a little like blogging:  a labor of love to be savored for its own sake, regardless of extraneous reward.  But unlike a post on the internet, whose life is more fleeting than a moth’s, a fruitcake will last at least until next year, when I can start the whole thing up once again.

My dentist, by the way, was also Ken Kesey’s dentist back in the 1960s.  Ken Kesey, you may recall, is the guy who wrote “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest,” the novel about life among the chronically insane. 

Somehow it seems appropriate.

Happy Holidays to all!

Laurel

 

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I hate to disappoint, but count me among those who don't get fruitcake. I should have liked it as a kid, because it's loaded with sugar, should have liked it as a young man because of the booze, and should like it now because it's fun to do something bad once in a while. Always enjoy the tours of your exotic neighborhood, though. Glad you're back.
I love your passion for food as much as I do your writing. That lamb sounds exquisite. However, I cannot stand fruitcake and am in a quandary as to whether or not I should rate this or not for fear that either way, you may send me one of those monsters in the mail. I'll take my chances and rate this anyway. I love the drunk mice btw! :)
Have a wonderful holiday!
Laurel,

Your writing is amazing. The way it moves, its pace, its wit. Really. You are terrific at these slice of life pieces---and I'm sure at any writing genre you will attempt.

On the subject of fruit cakes---I grew up on Mike Apisa's fruit cakes, and I have been left with a firm love of that food stuff. I like mine like my dad's---so dense with stuff (Brazil nuts, walnuts, pecans, candied fruit, raisins---not to mention butter and God only knows how much and what type liquor) that there was barely any room for flour.

Oh, I'm missing it now.

I don't bake. At least, not willingly. I got the cooking genes---but nothing that involves following a recipe (and really having to *measure*).

So thank you for this fun post and the memory.

Merry Christmas, girlfriend.
I'm a fruitcake fan as long as it is made with real fruit, and not candied fruit, which makes me literally ill. Christmas baking, which I seem to do less of every year, is a labour of love, as Laurel well knows. I used to make rum balls and springerlies in November, all manner of exotic cookies and cakes, and was often frantically baking even on Christmas Day (I think it's in the genes http://open.salon.com/content.php?cid=64356).

Now I mostly make cookies and tarts. I still make my own crusts because store-bought pastry is an abomination. I make mince tarts, using vegetarian mincemeat since hubby is vegetarian, and I make my special brand of cranberry/walnut butter tarts. Butter tarts are a Canadian delicacy (read "poor food") that are impossible not to gobble down. This year I also made cherry tarts from cherry preserves I put up last summer. The organic cherries are from my childhood friend's father's cherry orchard, one of the last surviving orchards in an area being overtaken by vineyeards. Biting into them is like eating summer. rated
Oh my gosh - You're Open Salon's very own Martha Stewart! Sweaters from dog hair? *Really?* I have to confess: I've never had fruitcake. Never. A fruitcake virgin, I am. I'll bet that yours are amazing though, just like your fun and witty writing.
Jimmymac and Cartouche, just make sure I never find out your home addresses!

UK -- Cream Cheese???

m.a. h. -- one slice = 4 hours on the stairmaster

EP, our lifestyles sound similar. It made me sad to read about the last of the cherry orchards. Same thing in Michigan, where I grew up. And here where I live now, they're ripping out hundred year old apple orchards to put in grapes -- just what the world needs, another boutique winery!

And, yes, Lisa, you really can make sweaters from spun dog hair. Just avoid going out in one on a rainy day, unless you don't mind smelling like a wet dog.
Lordy, I think (am afraid?) I understand you, which could say a scary lot about myself (self-recognition!), but I'm hoping that this empathy is entirely due to your amazing writing that makes it all sound so... inevitably right!

Thanks for the great post.
Glad we are friends, Lady...... Except I will now remember to not be sipping a diet Pepsi when reading your stuff. Glad there is no sugar in it so it should clean up off the laptop fairly well. I'm planning on leaving it open all night so it can dry out a bit between the keys.

Fruitcake! Yes, the alleged reason for this peripatetic wandering. I LOVE fruit cake. Sue won't touch it so when one of the lovely church ladies would give me a pound loaf of fruitcake I would run around the house yelling "It's MINE, It's MINE." While Sue and the cats just looked on in disbelief, because the cats can't stand it either.

So, now that I am retired I am bereft of fruit cake. And the local grocery doesn't even sell the ersatz kind any more. I am forcing myself this season to get by on pecan pie. Its not the same, but better than nothing.

Great post. And you and your have a wonderful Christmas!

Monte
Eek! You don't know the half of it. Perhaps we're cousins. I love fruitcake! I have ants, and mice. I have saved dog hair but never managed to get myself to learn how to spin it. I have intended to put Tibetan prayer flags in my garden, but never got around to it. I've also intended to make fruitcake. I hate high fructose corn syrup in jam, and I know exactly why you want high-quality lard for your pie crusts. And I'm insane!

Almost no one gives fruitcake anymore, and it's a shame. At a Christmas party years ago, during a yankee trading session, I had to wrestle a fruitcake away from someone who'd been given one and didn't appreciate it.

I enjoyed reading this *almost* as much as I would enjoy a fruitcake. But now I'm feeling deprived. I want a fruitcake with home-candied orange peel and citron, damn it.

Really great post!
Very funny post, Laurel. "It was a party they’re still squeaking about in rodent circles." was my favorite line. I wonder about any dentist who ran around with the Merry Pranksters, but maybe he is reformed like the rest of us. Thanks for the laughs. rated
O'Kathryn -- Sounds like I need to check out your posts ASAP, which I will do...as soon as I finish this next batch of fruitcake

Idahospud (the name of my favorite candy bar, incidentally) -- somehow I've missed you, too! Blame the fruitcake.

Monte -- I am THRILLED that we are now friends. Having your comments on my posts gives them a touch of class!

Mumbletypeg -- This could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship! I love the dog in your avatar, btw. His coat looks like prime spinning material.

So many fruitcake enthusiasts among you! Next year, I'm giving it all to you instead of my ingrate neighbors.
Hi Laurel, do you have a recipe for marmalade you'd like to share? The rental I moved in to has lots of citrus trees - oranges, grapefruit, lemons, limes and tangelos, and the landlady lets me have all I want.

What with the economic crunch and all, I'm looking more and more toward ways I can gift things I make myself.

Fruitcake - I've had good, bad, and awful. Mostly dependent on moistness, I feel. (And booze content.)
I'm an Old World Man, I think, who took the wrong spatio-temporal off-ramp on the ethereal plane in that Ur-moment prior to reincarnation. Because I love fruitcake, and mince pie, and leg of lamb (or mutton, about which let's be honest: it's a lamb over one year of age, but not necessarily the oldest and toughest sheep in the field as so many seem to believe). I could keep adding to that list.

Last year, my brother had pizza on Christmas Eve. Sacrilege.
I've wondered where you've been. Fruit cake from scratch? Scratch??
You Northern Californians really are out there aren't you. I love the thought of making everything from scratch, but only the thought, not the actual act itself.
I haven't had any fruitcake since I was a child. I don't recall being that fond of it, but your fruit cake sounds excellent. I suppose if you make 17 pounds of the stuff, it better be good.
One flew over the Cuckoo's Nest is one of my favorite movies and I see a correlation between the movie and your need to do the fruitcake dance. What are they putting in the water out there?
Laurel, this was a fun romp from start to finish. Hurry and finish those fruitcakes so we can have more of your musings.

Christmas Wishes from another Fruitcake, M
Oh my gosh, you're a real legitimate fruitcake person! I think the first I have ever met. And like jimmy, I don't get it. My stomach hurts thinking about fruitcake. I really never thought fruitcake was real. So you have given me a new appreciation...but, sorry, not enough to try it.
Laurel: Here's something you really have to get hold of and read -- "A Christmas Memory," Truman Capote's reminiscence of growing up poor and lonesome in Alabama, a life made bearable by the attention paid him by his old-maid cousin Miss Sook Faulk. It's Capote's best, most heartfelt story, written before fame and ego and celebrity took their toll. The centers on Miss Sook and the boy she calls Buddy and their efforts to collect the making for their annual fruitcake baking marathon. I'm sure you'll love it for all kinds of reasons. Cheers - Jeremiah
Jeremiah -- I love "A Christmas Memory," though it's been a few years since I've had the pleasure of reading it. Thanks for the reminder. I think I've got that collection of stories around here somewhere, and reading about young Truman Capote and his beloved aunt (while nibbling fruitcake) would be a lovely way to pass this New Year's afternoon.