This interview appeared in the New York Times on January 9, 2000. (The original article is on the web, sans photo.)

I had just come out with my first travel book. Reporter Donna Greene came to my house and asked many questions over tea. A couple of days later the photographer arrived and sat me in my living room, among objects I collected on my travels. How lucky I was. How unaware of how my life would change in a few months. 

Back then Salon was not around, Bush 2 was not yet inaugurated, and 9/11 was only an emergency number. I was comfortable and upbeat, felt blessed, and anticipated many happy years with my husband. As I talked to the interviewer I hadn’t a clue that Chaim, my husband of only three years, would die in less than a year, I would move to Florida, and I would live alone for the next nine years. I would go through financial crises and serious illness before emerging older and wiser -- and now, unexpectedly, loved again.

This interview focuses on the travel aspect of my life, touching on deeper things. My updated comments, ten years later, are added in bold italic, within parentheses; it’s interesting to compare them with my original comments.

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Q & A/ Lea Lane Stern: Writer Who Is a Traveler but Not a Tourist

by Donna Greene

DURING her three decades as a travel writer, Lea Lane Stern has seen parts of the world that look no different from what they must have looked like in the distant past and areas that have been overbuilt to accommodate tourists. She has also seen a strange mixture of old and new -- reindeer herders in Lapland with laptops and nomads in Tunisia on cell phones.

Ms. Stern, a resident of Pocantico Hills (in Westchester County, just north of NYC—I had a great situation, and was about to lose it in six months) who writes under the name Lea Lane, has traveled to about 100 countries,( but who’s counting? I know, I know. What’s with that?  Most of the travel came later in life, since my sons left home. I made a living writing books, and as editor at a travel publication, and my expenses were often covered.) writing articles for guidebooks, magazines and newspapers. She is the author of ''The Unofficial Guide to B & B's in New England'' (MacMillan) and has contributed to many guidebooks, including the soon to be released ''Fodor's Naples and the Amalfi Coast.''(In  the ten years since there have been more books, including Solo Traveler.)

Ms. Stern is married to Chaim Stern, the senior rabbi at Temple Beth El of Northern Westchester in Chappaqua, who often accompanies her on her trips. (Chaim took off whenever he could, and we were lucky that he had two six-month sabbaticals when we traveled the world together, and he got to see places he never otherwise would have. I’m happy about that.)

Here are excerpts from a recent conversation with her:

Q. When you began to travel 30 years ago, there was much more of the image of the so-called ugly American abroad. Has that changed?

A. Certain travelers are cliches with the fanny packs and the bright shirts and cameras -- demanding things in a loud voice. But I think when you speak to the guides, as I often do, without exception they say that their favorites are Americans. What they're saying is that Americans are open minded, curious, generous, friendly. (Like most Osers!)I think by and large Americans are good travelers. There are some exceptions, but lots of us travel so there is going to be a great variation.

Q. Is it fun being a travel writer?

A. Oh, it's great fun. It's opened up the world to me. People often ask me about my favorite places, and it's not an easy question. A few of them would include Bali in one of those magnificent hotels perched over the Ayung River Gorge, the Iguacu Falls on the Brazilian-Argentine border, some of the lesser known Greek islands such as Chios and Alonnisos and the Sunday market in Chichicastenango in Guatemala. Also: the Norwegian Fjords and Glacier Bay in Alaska. And the Taj Mahal is even more beautiful than I imagined. I am rarely disappointed unless a place has become tacky or overbuilt and devoid of character. 

Q. Are your favorite places determined by their beauty?

A. Sometimes the beauty is overwhelming, but very often it's the people and the markets -- certainly in Greece. I'm a contributor to ''Fodor's Greece,''  and I love the Greek Islands because of the people.

Q. What is it about the Greek people that you like so much?

A. Their openness, their warmth, what you can learn from them, just interacting in little ways. The best type of travel is to go out and be on your own with the people and to feel a part of the place. (This is a valuable point, I think.)

There is a difference between being a tourist and being a traveler. Tourists do what makes them comfortable. Often they will talk about the hotels and the restaurants and the familiar landmarks. In contrast, travelers seek discovery. They take more risks. They get pleasure in overcoming difficulties and discomforts, and they seek out the people. I've traveled in different ways. I've traveled alone, I've traveled with family, with friends. I think most of all I enjoy being alone with the people if I had to choose one.  I know that sounds unusual, but you're not alone when you travel alone. If you're open minded you will find very much the opposite. You become a part of the scene. And to me that's the best part of travel. (These words were the inspiration for Solo Traveler, the book I wrote in 2005, after Chaim had died. It was used by Random House in publicity for the book, and I put it in the book's intro. It led to a website and a brand as a " happy solo woman," giving talks and interviews. So very far from where I am here, so very married. Who knew?)

Q. Are you fluent in languages other than English?

A. Not really. A little bit of Spanish, and I play with other languages. I try very hard to speak Italian and French, but it has been a handicap. But I find it is amazing what you can do with your hands and gestures and smiles. And when you're interacting with people, they will encourage you and your communicating. (I’m actually pretty bad at languages. I forget most everything I learn if I don’t use it.)

Q. In the United States which areas do you like?

A. Obviously, I love New England. When I was researching the B&B book, I went into the tiny corners of New England, and I think it's one of the most beautiful areas of the country. I love the canyons of Utah and Arizona very much. And Santa Fe is just exceptional.  I love New York. I can go to the most dramatic places, but when I return here there is a very livable beauty. I am always impressed with it. (I live in Miami now and I’m not that crazy about it –except for the winter weather.)

Q. Is one guidebook for travelers much different from another?

A. One of my suggestions is that they read several, rather than just going with one. People usually have favorites. But the best thing to do is go to the library and get a bunch of recent ones. Also, look on the Internet. I was a host recently on Fodors.com, and the input from people who travel was fantastic. You want to keep your interests and circumstances in mind when taking other people's suggestions. People mean well, but they have different ways of looking at things. (This is way before the great new travel websites.Guidebook writing today is less important.)

Q. Once an obscure place is mentioned in a guidebook is that the end of its charm?

A. It takes about five years for that. But eventually word of mouth does start to set in. For example, the coast of Bali is now overrun with hotels and tourists, but the center of Bali is still magnificent. It's getting harder and harder to get off the beaten path today, there is so much communication. But you can still find, as I have, strange mixtures -- reindeer herders in Lapland with laptops and nomads in Tunisia on cell phones.

But it is becoming much more difficult to find exotic places. Places like Venice can be impossible in the summer. And you see more people there from America than you do from Italy. One of the things to do is to go off season if possible. And I think in the future more and more people will be traveling virtually.

Q. What do you mean, traveling virtually? By computer?

A. Yes, or going to theme parks. Many people feel after going to Epcot that they've been to different countries. (This was obviously pre-Open Salon, Facebook and other social media sites and forums. Seems like 100 years ago.)

Q. What, if any, age barriers do you feel there are to traveling?

A. In my experience, the best travelers are the oldest travelers because they have wisdom and knowledge and have the motivation; they realize they don't have endless time. And they're terrifically adaptable. I've traveled with 90-year-olds who I had to try to keep up with, and they very often go to places that are difficult. Often these are people who have looked forward to traveling their whole lives and appreciate it terrifically. (Now, ten years later, I’ve almost joined that older cohort myself!)

Q. Have you had any problems with the police in any countries?

A. I once was with a group of press people in Lima, Peru, and we had a gun pointed at us. I lived in the Philippines long ago when I was executive producer of a video shoot for the Defense Department, and in 1989 there were coups going on, so we had to live by the airport if we had to get out at the last second. And the last day we were there was the day before a coup.

I have been in some scary situations. Once I was whitewater rafting on a river in Costa Rica, and the water suddenly rose and the dam was opened unexpectedly and several writers were thrown from their rafts and almost drowned. But I managed to find strength in my arms that I never found before or since. And I was once lost in a monsoon in Jakarta, Indonesia, and thought no one would ever know I was there. But my guide -- bless him -- returned. And a butcher once ran after me with a knife in a village in Morocco, and I still don't know why. (Many tales to come on OS!)

Q. What's the worst part of being a travel writer?

A. Well, pay is low, and you tend to gain weight from all the food. (See my recent OS photos!)The breakfasts at all those inns and the dinners as well were unbelievable. Maybe the worst is when people find out what you do. Then people spend the whole time talking about their trips. It's an occupational hazard.

Q. Does your husband come with you on your trips?

A. When I'm researching a book, we work around his time off, and he comes as my right-hand man, navigator, photographer -- and he is not half bad. I don't travel very much without him anymore. Basically, he has shown me that you don't have to seek answers only in faraway places, and I think I've shown him that there are some great places faraway. So I think we complement each other, and we compromise. (That was true; I was blessed for just a little while with Chaim as a partner in travel, and in life.)

**

This was a precious time for me, and  emphasizes how life can change drastically and quickly for better or worse. It reminds me to appreciate every day, and never give up.