Lea Lane

Lea Lane
Location
Florida, USA
Birthday
August 26
Title
author, Travel Tales I Couldn't Put in the Guidebooks, available at Amazon.com and on Kindle
Bio
“I’ve discovered the secret of life,” Kay Thompson, the eccentric entertainer and “Eloise” author, once said. “A lot of hard work, a lot of sense of humor, a lot of joy and a lot of tra-la-la!” And that's been my life: As a travel writer for over 30 years, I've been around the block (more like around the world), and I write true stories about interesting people and places. (Check out my travel site, Travels With Lea.) I've lived an unconventional life in conventional trappings. Been a corporate VP, worked with foster kids, acted in an Indie ("Nurse 1"), was on Jeopardy!. I've been managing editor of a travel publication, written for the Times, and authored books. OS is my home, but I also blog on The Huffington Post, and I've contributed (mostly anonymously) to everything from encyclopedias to guidebooks. Married young, divorced late; married late, widowed early, I dated lots in-between -- and survived a scary illness. After being happily, peacefully solo for many years, I'm now happily married again. I founded and still edit www.sololady.com, a lifestyle Website for single women. I'm truly grateful for each precious day, each well-earned wrinkle, my family, my cat. Truth, laughter, friendship, late love. And this blog -- on this wonderful site!

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AUGUST 15, 2012 12:09PM

My Tangled Connections to Julia Child, Born 100 Years Ago

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Julia Child would have been 100 today. That anniversary, and the movie Julie & Juliabased on a diary blog on Salon much like some of us here write, and my recent trip to Paris where much of this movie is set, reminded me of how huge a role Julia Child played for those of us who learned to cook in the 1960s and 70s.

Her Mastering the Art of French Cooking Volumes One and Two and her subsequent books are all stained with my gravies and vermouth (used in place of wine, as she suggested). They were like Bibles to me.

Cooking was my passion for many years, and I grew my own veggies and herbs in a Westchester County 20 by 20 plot. I faithfully followed Julia’s recipes and threw monthly multi-course dinner parties that took all weekend to pull off and might begin with her recipe for chicken-liver mousse and end with her tarte Tatin.

I washed kidneys and scraped beards of mussels and braised tongues and stewed delectable red cabbage with apples, and I was defined as “a really serious cook,” which is probably why I eventually stopped. I wanted to be defined by other things.

I was privileged to meet the following legendary cooking writers who connected in some way with Julia Child, and for a bit, with me. And ended with my meeting the grand dame of French cookery herself.

But the circle begins in London, 20 years earlier, in a most interesting way.

Claudia Roden

In the early 70s I was a young-married living in Hampstead Garden Suburb, 20 minutes north of Trafalgar Square. Hubby 1 was studying for his PhD and we were renting an Edwardian manse as he did research at Oxford and Cambridge. We were lucky twenty-somethings with two toddlers and a nanny-- living a briefly charmed life.

The house owners decided to sell, and the buyer was an Egyptian-born artist named Claudia Roden. She and I hit it off immediately, kind of like I did with Andrea Reynolds (Claus Von Bulow’s lover, whom I previously wrote about).

Claudia was updating a cookbook about Middle Eastern food and wanted to try out her recipes. Many days she would come by and cook something as simple and delectable as prunes in wine. I met her children, and her parents, who were from ancient Alexandria and who told tales of life in a crossroads of the world at the beginning and middle of the 20thcentury.

The book she was updating was the first of many award-winning cookbooks for Claudia, who became a TV personality in England, doing a show from the house. (Nigella Lawson, a current cooking star, cites Claudia as her role model.)

One night after I had cooked Claudia a dinner of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, she told me that the night before she had met Julia Child, who had cooked for her. Imagine, I was a 20-something amateur cook, cooking for a cookbook author who had eaten a Julia-Child-prepared meal the night before!

James Beard

Today James Beard is associated with the highest awards in the cooking world. In the early 1970s I was invited to a book party at his town house in Greenwich Village; Claudia’s cookbook had become an instant classic, and I was invited as one of her guests.

At the time, James Beard was the preeminent America cooking icon in a world of few American food stars. My aunt Hilda, who herself had been one of the first female pastry chefs at the Waldorf Astoria, used his cookbooks when I visited her in New York. I remember that it was because of his recipe that I first ate the exotic thing called “zucchini.” And oh the taste of delicious, mysterious soups named “mulligatawny” and “Billi bi.”

The Beard townhouse, which today is the site of the James Beard Foundation, was decorated like a Persian tent.  I remember first seeing Mr. Beard sitting in a peacock throne chair, in an embroidered kaftan. He was a whale of a man, bald with prominent ears. Several young chefs doted on him. This was before coming out was the norm, and I remember my naïve surprise. The smells and sights and tastes were lushly stimulating.

(Another cooking-writer connection: Barbara Kafka, an award-winning food writer and prolific cookbook author, contributes to my website Sololady.com. Of her many accolades she is most proud of her James Beard awards.)

Jacques Pepin

In 1999 I attended a long-weekend press trip at a Cape Cod resort. Guests were learning to play croquet, and on the last day we all dressed in whites like out of The Great Gatsby, and we celebrated with a cotillion and croquet match.

One of the fellow invited guests was Jacques Pepin. This gifted French chef was as sweet and soft-spoken as he appears on TV. His wife was the tougher of the two, and stayed close to him throughout the weekend. At the time he was doing a show with Julia Child, and talked of her support of young chefs and her sometimes casual approach to recipes when on camera. He emphasized her authenticity and honesty.

Before we left, Jacques gave each of our fellow revelers a signed copy of his dessert book, and the recipes are simple and perfect. He is as impressive a person as he is a cook.

Sara Moulton

I was invited to a luncheon at Gourmet magazine kitchens at the Conde Naste building in New York.  Sara Moulton, an award-winning James Beard cook herself, had been Julia Child’s assistant for 10 years.  She took us into the demonstration kitchen and a half dozen of us helped cook a creative meal of southwest cuisine which we would later be served in the adjacent dining room, in part by Sara herself.

Sara is a petite and friendly woman who taught us how to tie our aprons like chefs, and seemed open to suggestions from us amateurs. Like Jacques Pepin, she spoke of Julia with respect. She spilled some vinegar, but no secrets, and you could tell that Sara felt that she learned from a master.

Julia Child

Yes, all of these cooks intersected with each other. They are all great ones. But the greatest to me and to so many, was Julia.  In the early 199os I attended a lecture at the New York Public Library where Julia Child was speaking on a panel.

I sort of remember the other famous panelists–including author/food critic Ruth Reichl, who became the editor of Gourmet magazine where I later was to have that southwest luncheon. (Ruth later was a cooking judge with my son, who at the time was the food critic for Time Out New York.)

But it was Julia who was the star. I remember she kept defending butter, cream and other fattening ingredients and she spoke  testily in that sing-song voice at the very idea of removing them or even substituting. “Just eat less, but don’t stop eating good things,” was her mantra.

After the presentation I waited to speak with her. When the crowd around her thinned, I told her of our mutual friendship with Claudia Roden. She seemed  bent and frail, but still tall. She graciously talked about Claudia’s talent for a moment, and then was escorted away. And I felt a circle had closed.

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Connections are so interesting when you take the time to untangle them. This was fun to do, as I remember this great cook with wonderful memories of fabulous recipes.
“Just eat less, but don’t stop eating good things,” - priceless.
Lea, what a beautiful life you live, travelling, cooking, meeting beautiful and creative humans, loving, creating. I am glad to know you and this story, says so much to me, not only cause the movie Julie and Julia, is the how I found out about OS, but also because I think cooking is an art creation. To be honest, I am amazed that you know Nigella Lawson, cause I have just watched her todays TV show and I have learned to make a beautiful sauce, just by adding to mayoneze, sauce, honey, lime...

Very interesting reading, knowing you and others through your writing. I think that only because I came and met all of you here in OS through this movie, I will always like Julia Child. Rated, and a trully needed getaway from the latest situation here in OS.
Lea, great stories of meeting these various members at the pinnacle of the foodie world and I would have been thrilled to simply meet just one! I am still having trouble comprehending that Julia would have been 100 today...I will always picture her as she appeared on her various cooking shows.
many of us learned to cook from julia. she was a revolutionary, and a lot of us eat healthier, tastier, more local food because of her and the people who were her disciples and then spread the word. i'm glad you reworked this and put it up, lea, and that you got to meet her. thank you.
What an interesting life you've had, Lea. I'm pretty sure you're less than six degrees of separation from just about everybody. Nice piece.
Charming vignettes. Or vinaigrettes. Whichever.

I'm quite convinced that between Sally Swift and you that the two of you have met everyone of any note. Did Claudia tell you about eating Julia's cooking after you had finished cooking? The mental pressure of following Julia while you were still doing prep work -- I would have dropped the roast beef on the floor, then tripped over it.
Thanks for dropping by for a bit of French cuisine --champagne and chicken-liver mousse canapé?

No Stim, Claudia dropped that shocker during the meal. I had cooked a real English meal, with Yorkshire pudding and all. I was so happy that I didn't plan on cooking a French meal, from a Julia Child recipe!
You really have led such an interesting life, but you already know that. Me, I am known for being a great cook, but that's about it./r
Claudia Rosen's "A Book of Middle Eastern Foods" changed my eating life much for the better. It allowed us to break away from our traditional Russian- influenced holiday dinners (chicken or brisket, clear chicken soup or borscht, etc.) and still have some connection between the food and family heritage. I have no idea to what extent I may have descended from megadarra and hummus -eating ancestors, but I appreciate the variety.
I was listening to NPR today where someone who'd written a biograpy of Julia Child was being interviewed. He said the same thing about butter and cream; apparently she had to defend them often and it irritated her. Apparently she also thought people ate too much.

Great post. I agree that between you and Sally you've met everyone.
An exceptional tribute. Indeed you have lived a most fascinating, if somewhat pleasantly tangled, life.
Besides being a great chef, she was also a decorated member of the OSS, predecessor to the CIA, during the war, reporting at one point directly to William (Wild Bill) Donovan.

Interesting, the cross-connections....
I loved reading this- and recognize so many of these chefs and their books, especially Julia's classics. I'm such a foodie and cooking is one of my main passions (tethered to the house as I have been these last 8 years). I've learned from books, and now TV-- and it's I've passed onto both boys. While J is home, I've been cooking up a storm and watching mostly cooking television shows with him. One of our first goals when he is well enough to be mobile is to spend time at the Culinary Institute or the New Orleans School of Cooking.
Glad you foodies stopped by. And D, that sounds like a great idea!
I realted so much!! She was so much more REAL than Martha Stewart, was't she??
I assume you mean "related." Me too!
She sounded like an eccentric lady but a fine person. Her love of butter lives on in Paula Deen. Nice association.
Wonderful post, Lea. Glad to hear of more fascinating encounters!
I have an early cookbook of hers. But that is as close as I've come.
My preference is Northern Italian but I also love Creole. My favorite meals are cooked by others and my favorite season is called 'your kitchen'. I'll bring the wine. :)
Another zelig post Lea. I still like to tackle her boeuf bourguignon once or twice a year - all three pages of it. Interesting how so many of the chefs intersect. And no Craig Claiborne? How did you two miss each other?
I still make the beef b! I hear CC suffered mightily from depression and didn't enjoy his life as much as he might have. Did meet several Iron Chefs, if that makes you feel better, A.
Great tribute to Julia and great relatable memory-stories Lea! You have had some good fun and you deserve scads more XO
What a great collection of memories! So many interesting people, so many interesting foods and experiences, and Julia Child! Amazing. Just simply an amazing life.
Well, it's been amazingly joyful, and sometimes amazingly sad. But right now, I'm grateful for all of it.
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▔▔▔▔▔▔╲▂▕▂▂▂▉ my thumb is always up for good cooking and food writing.Bravo!
I just love this! And no contest, in this arena, you win hands down. I have a handful of special dishes but that's my limit. A wonderful post that fills me with with envy.. not only for the great chefs you've met, but for you culinary skills!
Thank you for these memories. I met Julia once too. We were standing on a corner together at Madison and 65th waiting for the light to change. We was very frail and tall, but she still radiated energy. We exchanged smiles.
A lovely read. You seem to leave most of your respondents (especially the last two) speechless and emotional. I never followed Julia Child's recipes but totally adored her persona. ;)
Can't remember the speechless part, except maybe at James Beard's over-the-top townhouse. But emotional, probably. I get that way looking back, more and more.
What an intriguing connection, indeed. Fascinating. I was going to say that out of this post, this is the sentence that struck me the most: " I remember first seeing Mr. Beard sitting in a peacock throne chair, in an embroidered kaftan. " But then I got to Julia Child's simple, logical, liberating statement: “Just eat less, but don’t stop eating good things”. Thank you for making me aware of something I didn't know she'd said. Her cooking was French-inspired, and so is that philosophy. I hate it when people won't allow themselves to savor good food, because of a diet. I like Julia's way!
I don't know if you've seen this, it's pretty good, they did the same thing for Bob Ross (the gentle painting instructor) and Mr. Rogers at PBS Digital. Julia Remixed:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80ZrUI7RNfI&feature=g-logo-xit

I still use her tips. And I love Jacques Pepin. I saw him once in the lobby of a hotel and told him so. He was very nice.

Rated
Thanks, BOKO. Very interesting and amusing.
I was taught to cook as a young boy and still do. I enjoyed this very much and now I am hungry. Think I'll go vegetarian tonight.
How wonderful your life is, Lea! This is just priceless. ~r
What an interesting, vibrant piece of writing.
What great stories, Lea, short but rich with detail. I'm a fan of Julia's as well as her husband, portrayed by Stanley Tucci so well in the movie. Angela and I made her boeuf bourguignon on one of my visits recently; we spent all day shopping for ingredients then in the kitchen preparing it. We often cook together on our visits and Julia Child is one of our inspirations for that. Thanks for the additional inspiration.
So glad to hear that you two OS lovebirds are still cookin'.
j&j was on the tube last night, ms streep managed to make a thin script fascinating, not the first time.

there was a reference to julia 'hating' the blog or perhaps julie's modern language, do you know anything about that?
Nope, Al I don't know about Julia's feelings about the film. I just met her that one time, and before the movie came out.
Whenever I read about Julia I feel a sense of loss that I never connected with her -- either in real life or in her cooking show. (Her show wasn't broadcast in our area.) I'm trying to make up for lost time via the internet.
You have a gift for feasting at life's banquet.
Fabulous tribute and trip down memory lane. Thanks for sharing this. Lovely piece. r