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Liz Emrich

Liz Emrich
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A column that brings the wisdom of a lawyer and a mom to the politcal landscape.

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JUNE 3, 2009 1:56PM

Announcing Iron Pundit vs. Iron Skillet: Top Chef Masters

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Lately it seems that everything I have to say on Open Salon has to do with my family’s struggle with raising a son with Asperger’s Syndrome.  After a fabulous weekend with our own Pretend Farmer that included an inspired evening with the one and only Bob Eckstein, it finally came to me what I missed the most about being away from Open Salon:  having something to LiveBlog.

And over dinner at one of the finest spas on the east coast, it occurred to me exactly what needed liveblogging:  the upcoming season of Top Chef, called Top Chef Masters, which premieres June 10th.

I have to admit, Top Chef is my greatest reality TV addiction.  I have informed my friends that if I ever appear on a reality TV show that it is my sincere hope they will have the decency to shoot me or at the very least, beat me until I come to my senses.  I rail against the fact that reality TV has resulted in a dearth of quality dramatic television.  I like to think that I am an intelligent individual with more refined tastes than the average person (don’t we all like to think such things about ourselves?), but when Little Man is asleep and the door is shut and I am alone in front of my television I will admit it – I like watching reality TV.

I watch most of the “Real Housewives” series, I am ashamed to admit.  To me it is rather like gawking at the hippos at the National Zoo.  The glitz, the infighting, the psychotic behavior that is only possible when one is an extreme narcissist, I find it fascinating. I tuned in to the season premiere of “Jon and Kate Plus 8” because I am just curious enough about all the whispers and rumors and tabloid sleaze to see what’s going to happen.  I love the formulaic makeover shows like “What Not to Wear” and “Trading Spaces” and “Gordon Ramsey’s Kitchen Nightmares” and “The Dog Whisperer,” because they offer the comforting message that improvement is merely a matter of spending a couple of days getting the help of the right expert. The geek in me loves “Who Wants to Be a Superhero?” I can’t even begin to explain that one.

But it’s the mano-a-mano culinary throwdown that is “Top Chef” that really excites me.  It’s my crack, my kryptonite, my guilty pleasure.  For those of us raised in a culture where food is love, Top Chef is like porn. Food porn. It is the apex of reality TV, because the “cheftestants” are all skilled at their craft.  This is not watching average joes attempt feats that are beyond their ken a la “Survivor” or “Dancing with the Stars” or (gasp!) “America’s Got Talent.”  There is no shadenfreude style pleasure at the demise of people whose opinion of themselves vastly exceeds any actual talent they possess.  The pleasure derived from watching Top Chef is purely a matter of watching talented people compete in a in a contest that demands they bring their “A-game.”

Given that is why I love Top Chef, the Masters season promises to be everything I love about the show times seven. Bravo has promised to “bring out the big knives” by recruiting 24 of the nation’s most famous chefs to compete for charity.

The format of Masters will be slightly different than what we’re used to, probably because most of these culinary giants wouldn’t find it easy to leave their restaurants and businesses in order to participate in the show for twelve or more weeks.  Instead, for the first six weeks, four chefs will face off in both a “quickfire” challenge and a longer and more complex final challenge that results in one chef being named a winner and money being donated to his or her charity.  The last six weeks, the winners will come back and compete to see who is the Top Chef Master, receiving $100,000 for the charity of their choice.

The lineup of chefs includes many names that are familiar to Top Chef fans.  Wylie Dufresne, the famous pioneer of the “molecular gastronomy” technique espoused by Top Chef favorites like Richard Blais and Marcel Vigneron, is a contestant, as is Hubert Keller.  The attractive and affable New Orleans native John Besh has probably done just about every celebrity chef show there is, including judging the finals of season five, and does his part here as well. Chicago favorite and champion of authentic Mexican cuisine Rick Bayless is in the lineup, as is Oprah’s personal chef Art Smith, whose relationship with the “Big O” has resulted in a Chicago restaurant empire to be envied. Michael Chiarello, a Napa Valley favorite and the mind behind the “Napa Style” catalog, does his bit as well, joined by other Napa favorites like Cindy Pawlcyn and Elizabeth Falkner. There aren’t that many women in the lineup, something I find disappointing, given that there is a wealth of female talent out there in the restaurant world.

Presiding over this dream team lineup of contestants is Kelly Choi, who frankly is already annoying me for a couple of reasons – first off, it’s certainly become the cliché of these shows that the host should be a beautiful, leggy woman to provide some excitement and sexual tension. (This is the only reason to make Kelly Rowland the host of “The Fashion Show” Did no one SEE the costumes she wore as part of Destiny’s Child?) Choi’s oversized head topping her too-thin body – the “lollipop” look reminiscent of the Olson twins – I find it almost offensive in the context of a food program.

But having that “eating disorder chic” look isn’t the real problem.  Unlike her counterpart in regular Top Chef, Padma Lakshmi, Choi’s claim to fame is knowing what to eat, not how to cook it. There is an inherent issue with creating a competition between master chefs: who do you get to sit in judgment over them? Other chefs? Hardly. The producers have wisely approached nationally recognized food critics Gael Greene, Jay Rayner and James Oseland. Choi simply doesn’t seem to be in their class. Choi’s experience is mostly as host of a local New York restaurant program and a syndicated travel show about New York. How she’s going to hold her own amongst all the egos of the chefs and the expertise of the other panel judges is unclear. I’m giving her a chance, and hoping for the best, but I fear I am going to end up disappointed.

So tune into this blog Wednesday, June 10 at 10 p.m. for the first edition of “Iron Pundit vs. Iron Skillet” as I break it down, OS Liveblog style.  C’mon over and watch Top Chef Masters with all your OS friends.  I’ll be here….ready for some serious food and fun.

  

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GAH! I'll be GONE!
I will come back and read the everloving HECK out of it, though!

(thumbified with much sadness!)
I have never watched Top Chef, but rarely miss an episode of Hell's Kitchen. I shall have to give TC a try.
I don't watch a lot of TV but I definitely want to read your take on this. And kudos for being brave enough to admit to watching reality TV. I confess...I've watched the OC and NY Real Housewives and it is a case of what I call horrified fascination. You nailed why we watch it.
And our plan comes to fruition, bwahaha! Can't wait!
I too am addicted to Top Chef. (Even though I can't get my partner to see why it's not just another reality show - -I generally don't watch them.) I hadn't heard about this program coming up so I'm thrilled to get the news and also that you will live blog it -- weeha!
Next season must feature The Squirrel.
I'm in, and look forward to your snappy liveblogging. (I'm doing well about curing my really trash tv addiction, but I do not consider Top Chef trash. It is a guilty pleasure, like "Housewives" and the SYTYCDance.)
I think it'll be interesting to see established chefs under the kind of pressure that we've seen on the "regular" Top Chef. They'll make mistakes and prove they're human. Hopefully they won't be as arrogant as Stefan from this past season's Top Chef though. Or if they are, hopefully they'll get the kind of "come uppance" that Stefan deserved but did not receive.
Gosh, I've missed the Live Blog. I am so glad that the Iron Pundit is in!
Jodi, now that you're a professional foodie (squee!) I'll be proud to count you among my readers!

GeeBee, Top Chef is worth watching. Looking forward to seeing you here next week.

Emma, it really is the worst aspects of morbid curiosity that make us watch stuff like "Housewives." And I am appalled at myself and still can't help myself. God, I feel so dirty...

P-F, I can make anything happen, remember?

Silkstone, I'll see you next week! Squeeee!

Verbal, I think that The Squirrel should get to host a challenge -- coming up with a crock pot special.

Lea, i too do not feel embarassed of Top Chef, not like I feel about Housewives. See you next week!

JL, I will tell you right now, you'll love it. Really.

Walter, I think you are right. The regular TC challenges are not easy, and once you get to the status of "celebrity chef" people tend to bend over backwards so that you can have whatever you need. Being handed ignominious twists and turns can either rev up your sense of fun or your sense of indignation. I predict we will see both this season.

Lisa, it won't be the same if you don't stop by.... :)
Top Chef is hands down the best show on the tube! Well for this boy it is. I am not sure if this new format will satisfy all my foodie/personality/craziness needs, with no extended period of time to get to know the chefs. How will we be able to decide on a favorite and root for them, or conversly watch in dumb struck awe at the arogant bastards we deem will hopefully get their comupance?

As a food-tv lover I will definetly be tuning in, but I can't help feeling that it wont be as much fun as the original format. I'll be tuning into your blog to see how the OS world responds. rated with a chefs knife (:
Tea&S, thanks for dropping in! Join us on OS for sure. We've liveblogged lots of things here in these parts and had lots of fun doing it. Your participation would be welcome!
Oh this is very exciting Liz. I LOVE Top Chef and didn't realize it was about to come on again. Having you liveblog it is an extra. I will most likely be working and will have to watch on DVR, but I look forward to reading what you have to say. And I'm so glad you have found a great venue in returning to OS. You've been missed.
Mary TK., Thanks. It's kind of nice to be back. Cooking something else up too....you'll see.....
I may indeed watch. I love Top Chef, too. But don't watch much other "reality" teevee as I find it symptomatic of the decline of what is left of our culture, sigh......
Thanks for the heads up. Life has been dealing so much to me lately that I haven't been able to be as current as usual.

And I am jealousing about your weekend with lauren and your visit with bob.
Sounds like fun!

Top Chef was one of only two reality shows we watched. The other was Project Runway. Gotta love Tim Gunn.
Lisa, I tend to agree with you that reality TV is not an advancement in our culutre, but rather a travesty. That doesn't mean I don't enjoy it though, which says I'm as venal as the next girl. Looking forward to seeing you with us Wednesday.

AtHomePilgrim, thanks for coming by! I LURVE Tim Gunn. Project Runway is very much like Top Chef in that it takes real talent to win the competition. I think Lifetime is finally getting ready to air the latest season after all the legal wranglings.
Have you watched TG's Guide to Style (or whatever it was called)? He is so sweet to the ladies--and they always look better when he's done advising them. And, since they pick out their clothes, it's a result of their learning, not his dictating.

We were sad that Carla lost TC this year. She even got Tom to buy into cooking with love. But she brought it on herself in the finale by not taking charge of her menu.
I LOVED TGunn's Guide to Style. So much less snarky and more humane than "What Not to Wear" -- Gunn is just such a lovely human being.

I think Tom Collicchio believes in cooking with a soul. I do think that sometimes people use the notion of "redefined comfort food" as a way to conceal lack of technique. Carla was one of those amazing chefs whose comfort food was a brilliant showcase of her technique. And I agree she dug her own hole in the final -- if she'd cooked her meal instead of listening to Casey too much, she might have beat both the baldies. Sadly, she lost confidence. But she was awesome and totally deserving of being in the final three.
“I like to think that I am an intelligent individual with more refined tastes than the average person (don’t we all like to think such things about ourselves?), but when Little Man is asleep and the door is shut and I am alone in front of my television I will admit it – I like watching reality TV.”

Michael and I have a term for these kinds of shows: “crapolicious.” Of course, like you, we don’t watch them as the average viewer would. We analyze them for what they reveal about human nature, for what they teach us about the pathology of desperation and desire. We haven’t watched TV in several years (ever since our cable went on the fritz, and we realized we could live—quite happily at that—without it), but when we did, we were hooked on “Trading Spouses” and “Nanny 911.” We were especially interested in applying George Lakoff’s Strict Father and Nurturant Parent models to the families depicted in these shows. Yes, editing is everything in unreality TV, but it was quite clear that parents attempting to practice Strict Father techniques ended up with damaged, fearful, and rebellious children, whereas the nanny’s more nurturant advice cultivated an atmosphere of mutual respect, acceptance of responsibilities, and trust.

Even though we no longer watch television, we did come across a link to a more recent reality TV show with a conscience: “What Would You Do?” If you haven’t already watched it, there are some genuinely moving and thought-provoking episodes tackling bigotries of all hideous stripes: racism, homophobia, homelessness, sexism, and classism, for starters.

—Melissa
Melissa, thanks for dropping in! I have to say though, I can't claim any "higher purpose" in watching these shows. My motives are as venal and banal as the rest of America's. I'm not looking for examples of parenting models in action, or making erudite observations of the various psychoses of the show participants.

Basically, I live for the WTF moments when I can imagine that somehow I am better than my fellow man because I did NOT just say (and would never say) what Kelly just said to Bethanny on "Real Housewives of New York City." It's crass. It's beneath me. It's not how nice girls with graduate degrees and houses in the suburbs should behave or think. Yet I do.

That is the delicious nature of vice. These shows are truly a vice, and that being the case, I will own every dirty little bit of it. If I'm lucky, I might not even feel guilty.