Athena's Head

On Writing, Parenting, and Pop-Mom Culture

Martha Nichols

Martha Nichols
Location
Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA
Birthday
March 18
Title
Editor in Chief
Company
Talking Writing
Bio
I run Talking Writing, an online literary magazine. I'm also a contributing editor at the Women's Review of Books and a freelance journalist in the Boston area. I write about women's issues, books, youth services, and adoption. As the mother of a son born in Vietnam, I look for fresh perspectives on the seemingly random pieces of our lives. I cross-post most OS entries on my website Athena's Head. I am not paid a cent for any reviews or product references—these opinions are mine alone.

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AUGUST 22, 2009 9:59AM

New Age Guff: What's the Whole Foods Boycott Really About?

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Yesterday my kneejerk reaction was to support the Whole Foods boycott. Anything that exposes ex-hippie libertarians like CEO John Mackey seemed like a good idea to me. We need universal healthcare, and Mackey's recent editorial in the Wall Street Journal should inspire outrage.

Then I slept on it and changed my mind.

Collective action gets results, but what results do we expect of this boycott? That Mackey issue a public apology? That he change his stripes like so many shallow (and soulless) businesspeople have before him? Do we really believe that CEOs of branded empires must conform exactly to their customers' beliefs? That they must be "authentic"?

On Facebook, here's a quote from the Boycott Whole Foods group page: "Whole Foods has built its brand with the dollars of deceived progressives. Let them know your money will no longer go to support Whole Foods' anti-union, anti-health insurance reform, right-wing activities."

I'm with this in spirit. But for a boycott to be effective, the calls for change have to be more specific than decrying a corporation's "right-wing activities." Believing that enlightened businesses will save the world is a delusion—and it's a dangerous one, especially when it dissipates the energy of protest.

Even if Mackey decides to grovel, the course of President Obama's healthcare plan remains in jeopardy. In the current nasty climate, it's possible a boycott on these grounds will backfire, turning Mackey into a conservative celebrity. Meanwhile, the corporate PR machine churns on, reinforcing our gut feeling that we're "shopping for a cause" whenever we buy bread and cheese. 

Most of the rage seems to be about outting Mackey and his betrayal of those "deceived" progressive customers. Yet Mackey has made no secret of his attitudes. A few choice items from past interviews: he's an admirer of Ayn Rand, up to a point; labor activists report that he once said, "The union is like having herpes." If Whole Foods shoppers have suddenly been caught off guard, it's because they've bought into WF's official story and marketing gimmickry.

Now why is that? Back in the mid-'90s, I did some writing in the Harvard Business Review about the contradictions in New Age marketing. My ire was sparked by the disingenuousness of hippie business gurus like Ben Cohen of Ben & Jerry's and Anita Roddick of The Body Shop, mythmakers who used social-justice rhetoric from the '60s to sell ice cream and make-up.

Around the same time that I was stewing about the ideals these entrepreneurs were betraying, Jon Entine wrote "Shattered Image: Is The Body Shop Too Good to Be True?" When Business Ethics magazine published the piece in 1994, it caused a brouhaha. Entine and I teamed up for awhile, writing about the delusions fueling the socially responsible businesss movement.

Yet I felt conflicted myself about New Age brands. I wanted to love them; I wanted to believe. I just couldn't, and I still can't.

The thing about business is that it wants to make money—something grandiose talkers like Cohen or Roddick could never resolve. Ben & Jerry's is now owned by the multinational food conglomerate Unilever; The Body Shop is now owned by L'Oreal. See Entine's "The Myth of the Green Queen" for an assessment of Roddick's dubious legacy.

But these were the forerunners of a type of lifestyle marketing for consumer products that's so prevalent now few question its validity. We may joke about "Whole Paycheck," but rarely do I see anyone contesting the marketing hay made from Boomer and Gen-X desires for authenticity—or our need to believe that shopping is somehow meaningful.

Let me be clear:  John Mackey's emphasis on personal responsibility for "wellness" is both blind and patronizing. Whole Foods is a union buster. Its merchandising model is designed to gouge more money from customers. Its cross-country system of distribution is far from green, and WF is a competitive threat to small retailers.

Such practices are common to the low-paying grocery store industry, but I'd have no problem singling out Whole Foods for a boycott if the boycott were really about union-busting or WF's huge carbon footprint. In those cases, taking our customer dollars elsewhere might force Whole Foods to change in the ways it's possible for a retail business to change.

But let's not waste energy expecting businesspeople to say what we want them to say. Instead let's pick apart that thoughtless editorial in print, online, and in heated conversations. Let's raise our voices at town hall meetings and decry people who carry around pictures of Obama with a Hitler mustache.

And by all means, shop at local co-ops and farmer's markets whenever you can.

By the way: Stonyfield Farm is working hard to put organic dairy farms in Maine out of business and is the target of a far more specific boycott. I urge you to participate.

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You've hit the nail on the head -- what does the boycott want to achieve. If it's just to express ire at Mackey's views, the only outcome will be that CEO contracts will start having a clause preventing the CEO from publishing opinion pieces in the newspapers without approval by some committee designed to weed out all but the most non-controversial statements.
This is, first of all, the kind of excellent blogging that makes the genre such a real source of solid information that is so much more difficult to get from the traditional journalism model. It's basically an opinion piece, of course, but includes many links that lead me to widely respected sources of information that form the basis of the writer's opinion. The only thing that would make it a more informative piece would be links to opposing positions. But that's a very rare thing from what I can tell and possibly too much to expect. As it is, it's a very good introduction to its subject. (But Costco too? Really? I'm disappointed.)

Unfortunately, I'm finding it on a weekend when I don't have the time or focus to follow all the links, absorb all the information. I will leave it open and come back to it, though. It's worthwhile and important.
Truthfully, I am a little conflicted about this boycott, because I do believe that any exposure to anti-union practices (which are so often cloaked by corporate happy talk) and the New Age marketing hype of Whole Foods is a good thing. And, yes, of course, boycotting is free speech, and the boycotters have just as much to do it as Mackey had to write an editorial for WSJ.

The issue for me, always, has to do with where our prccious energy goes when we protest the system. Having been an on-and-off business journalist for many years, I know well how hard it is to get past the Teflon surface of a corporation--and how easy it is for corporate communications to spin one's message and meaning. At this point, many corporate communications folks used to be journalists, so they know exactly what they're doing.

And here we are, talking about Whole Foods instead of health-care reform. Some of that blame falls on the Obama administration, for not providing a compelling moral and ethical vision, but the message has also been effectively sidetracked by conservative communicators.

As for Costco, I believe its CEO was an Obama supporter, although I just putting that out there off the top of my head. Its Trader Joe (Dan Bane) who's not the groovy guy he appears to be.
The issue for me, always, has to do with where our prccious energy goes when we protest the system.

That matters if it's an either/or issue. It seems to me there's not a lot of organizing of a WF boycott, that it's been a largely spontaneous, individual activity so far. For me, it will be an energy saver - the co-op is closer to my house than WF and on the way home from work. The attraction of WF has been largely one of their coffees but I usually manage to drop a small pile of dollars while there. I'm under no illusion that depriving WF of my few measly dollars will have any effect on their policies but in a consumer society I care about who I support with the little I spend.

And here we are, talking about Whole Foods instead of health-care reform.

This, too, is not either/or. I can talk about more than one thing - as a society we'd better be capable of working on more than one issue at a time if we're going to make any progress.

My position on medical care is pretty well formed but the question of workers' rights and labor unions is undergoing some change. I'm surely never going to be able to direct everything I spend toward strengthening the power of labor but when the leadership of a company behaves in such an egregious fashion I absolutely claim the right to flip him the bird whether or not it's an effective statement.
Well, you are right, nerd cred, it's not either/or in any real sense. It's so interesting, isn't it, that the style of an op-ed shoehorns you into definitive statements. I'd say I'm talking about two issues here, both of them personally inflected. After a good fifteen years, I still feel affronted by the use of social-justice rhetoric to sell things--capitalism trumps all and la la la. This is not news to anyone on the left--and God knows its not to the business community--yet I could see the same outraged affront growing out of the most recent WF boycott. Then there's the issue of precious energy, something that seemed particularly relevant during the Bush W years, when progressives had to fight all sorts of outrageous legislation as holding actions--and the whole point was to keep us occupied and hogtied. I think there's tons of room to disagree about health-care reform, and I'd like to see a real conversation about this--one that even, perhaps, addresses the more reasonable of Mackey's points in his editorial. We haven't gotten to the conversation yet, and it may not happen, because the discussion keeps getting derailed.
We have worked hard for YEARS to build up our family ranch where we raise "Certified Humane" grassfed beef cattle. Last year we entered into negotiations with WF, to provide them with local (VA), grassfed beef. We complied with their requests for mountains of paperwork, inspections, audits. We did everything they asked. The process stalled when the butcher they were using for lamb, failed to pass inspection for our cattle.

At that point, they suggested we try another butcher - either one in Georgia or one in Maine (one that had already passed inspection for beef). We questioned how the beef could still be called "local" when it would have to be transported 1400 miles round trip and they assured us that that wasn't a problem, as long as it was raised in VA. We wondered how environmental impact could be reduced by shipping cattle/beef a total of 1400 miles round trip?

In the meantime, we found out that the butcher WF was using for sheep (that failed for our cattle) was inspected by another group, and that the stun gun they were using wasn't working properly - so that animals were still alive and moving, or even trying to stand after being stunned. I called the regional meat buyer and told him this and as far as I know, he did not launch an investigation - and in fact, if you buy lamb in the Charlottesville (VA) or Richmond stores, you may be getting something that was slaughtered inhumanely, even though WF touts it's animal welfare policy.

Next, we found out that WF was using the photos it took of us and our ranch on posters on a shelf in the meat department in the Charlottesville store. Multiple employees were telling customers (including a private investigator that we hired) that the beef on those shelves was from Against the Wind Ranch - even though they didn't purchase beef from us!

I called the regional meat buyer to let him know that the sign was up and I assumed he have it taken down. I stopped back over several weeks later and the sign was still up, and employees still telling anyone who asked that the beef was from our ranch.

It took a letter from a lawyer to get them to take the sign down. They claim it was only up for "about a week" and that it was a mistake. We have reason believe that the sign was up for about 8 months.

Folks, be aware of ANY food labeled local, or any food claim at all made by WF. Don't buy from a store that promises great food from local ranchers and producers - find those producers and buy it directly from them. You will pay a lot less and you WILL know exactly where that product came from.

So where do things stand now? We had a lawyer help us out and write them a few letters. But WF has pockets far deeper than ours and we cannot afford to take this to the next step. We are looking for an attorney who might be able to help us. We are the local ranchers that WF claims to help, and our experience with WF has left us with a bad taste in our mouth, but on principal, we want to get the word out about what happened to us.

The funny thing is that when we hired a private detective, he put a T-bone steak in his shopping cart as he was looking around the store. After he talked to the employees in the meat department and heard their lies about our beef (or lack thereof), he told me that he put the T-bone back because there was no way to know WHERE it came from!

If there is anyone out there who might be able to help us, please contact me.

Sincerely, Sarah Chaney
againstthewind@att.net
www.againstthewindranch.com