Rolling

Rolling
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FEBRUARY 20, 2009 1:19PM

Alien in My Own Country - the East West Divide in India

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My mother gave birth in the last week of December at her brother’s house in Durgapur (east coast, Bengal province surrounded by the Bay of Bengal). Within two weeks baby was bundled off to snow ridden Northern highlands of Kathmandu, as the father was posted there then. They had to feed it milk laced with brandy to cope with the extreme weather. After a whole year in the lap of the Himalayas, baby was moved to the tropical Eastern rain-fed NEFA, (presently the state of Arunachal Pradesh) and spent the formative years in Assam, Tripura, Manipur etc where it is as humid as it is wet. It either drips constantly or it swelters.

When I sprouted wings I flew down South, spent time in the west coast skirting Goa, and in the hills in the Kodaikanal region in the state of Tamil Nadu. Later moved North to Delhi, lived and worked there till the tectonics in life drew me due West. From Pune in Maharashtra I reached Rajkot in Saurashtra and moved on up to Ahemdabad, the deemed mega city of Gujarat state.

By age thirty eight I had traversed the entire trajectory described in the national anthem of my country: Gujarata-Maratha-Dravida-Utkala-Banga-Vindhya-Himachala-Yamuna-Ganga. Well almost, Punjab and Sindh being the only two regions left out of the list.

Yet I still can’t get over it - the fact that we are so diverse! I speak five languages including Hindi and English, yet I feel lost! I still don’t know what to expect a lot of times and get lots of pleasant and unpleasant surprises everytime I change course. And sometimes within my own country I have uneasy feelings of being in alien terrirtory. Of not knowing the place at all. 

 East (West Bengal, Orissa, Bihar, Jharkhand,Assam etc) - West(Maharashtra Gujarat) Differences

FOOD - VEG/NON VEG

**In the West, in Gujarat, with a sizeable  Jain population, especially in Rajkot, you can’t buy eggs in any supermarket or grocery store within city limits!! Eggs are sold by gypsies near the city limits or odd places besides highways, in ladis, a little wooden cart on two wheels.

It is like other Indians are not expected to shop or live here.

** For fish or meat you have to go to the saddar bazar which is twelve kilometers from Indira Chowk, which is like main city.

THE MAIN COURSE

**The West, (Gujarat, Rajasthan, Maharashtra) and the North (Punjab etc) combine roti-chawal in the same meal for the main course.

**In the East and the South, rice and rotli it is either/or. Roti or paratha is never a major meal.Rice is the staple food.

POTATO

**In the West, in Maharashtra, they rarely combine potato with other vegetables. Batata is a stand alone dish.

**In the East potato is an essential ingredient in nearly all vegetable dishes except for pulses and seeds.

SWEETS

**In the West in Pune you have to travel kilometers to get a decent sweet shop (like from Vishrantwadi or Yerwada to MG Road). In Gujarat the situation is better. :-)

** In the East Sweet shops are abundant in every nukkad, street corner. 

**Only Bengalis seem to eat sweetened dahi/yoghurt (Mishti Doi). In the West, in Gujarat it is Srikhand, kind of similar but not the same.

** In the West Laddoo is the most common sweet! Puran Pulis next. While people know of  rashogollas, kalakands, sandesh, kancha golla, lady kenny, kalojaam, chitrakoot, nikhuti, amriti, chhanar payesh, rashomalai, khirkadamb  some of the everyday stuff in the East, is unheard of here. Like they haven’t heard of Puran Pulis or Bakharwadi in the east. :-)

SAAG/LEAFY VEGETABLES

**In the East a typical meal in average hosehold would include a green leafy vegetables (saag) as starter, never a major dish. It would be followed by pulses(daal), other vegetable/sprouts curried (Lady’s finger, radish, eggplant, cauliflower or cabbage etc), and end with fish, meat or eggs. In summer and winter most homes would also serve chutney. No achhar or pickle!!

**In the East people generally never serve or eat leafy vegetables after sundown.

LANGUAGE - PUBLIC SIGNS/BUS NUMBERS

**In the East public signs are in English. In the North (Punjab, Himachal, Delhi) it is in Hindi. In the South the routes are in state language (Tamil, Malayalam, Kannad, Telugu) but numbers would be in English.

**In the West bus numbers, street signs, sign boards are in local language (Gujarati/Marathi). You may end up standing there at the bus stop, while your bus passes you by, because you could not read the route or the number!

**In the West bus conductors would actually insult you if you ask for fare or directions in Hindi and spit out at you, “E Marathi ma bolo, yeh Delhi nako” (Hey speak in Marathi, this isn’t Delhi).

** In Chennai (Tamil Nadu), down South of India, auto drivers refuse to reply politely or answer properly if you speak to them in Hindi. English is fine!

CLOTHES - COTTON

**Although the West is the cotton hub of the country, they produce the finest, and despite the hot climate here, the masses are seen to wear synthetic.

** In the East cotton is commonly worn by the masses.

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Comments

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Khub majar post. Welcome to Open Salon.
:) Thanks. Can I add u to my friends list too? How do I do it pl?
Great. You managed to do the the Friends bit. I have you on my list too. I was chuckling so hard when I was reading your post, the regional biases in India are so funny (at least to Indians) even if somewhat politically incorrect on occasion. Wonderful to have you on board. Hope to "see" more of you.

P. S. I have a few not-too-nice things to say about Modi on a couple of my posts. Hope we are on the same side of the political divide ;-).
Very educational. I learned a lot about India from your post.
Would be an invaluable guide for my next trip to India, except it's to Banagalore and Chennai. Maybe you'll do a north-south follow-up, especially about the funny stuff they do to coffee :-). Great piece. 3 woofs.

WOOF

P.S. You might have a chuckle or two at my piece on (imaginary) post-colonial, consciousness-raised Bangalore call center.
You are welcome, Icemilkcoffee.
CCC (how do you 'say' that?) : thanks, would try.
CCC - 'try' to do a N-S post like u suggest, only, find a lot in my Southern counterparts in terms of shared values and lifestyle that I can actually relate to, except some social customs. At least a sojourn never did produce the kind of shock that the West has been...but am sure there are differences :) it would be fun finding them out and celebrating them together with you guys here.
The only thing holding us together in India ...I believe is the (in?)famous religion and Bollywood... movies and songs. This makes me smile as having been stationed all over India and partaken of all the diversity of food, language and culture I feel more integrated with the planet really. The other day my daughter's boyfriend, who recently joined us for a trip to India, asked me who the Santals really were. So I gave him the usual line about how they were probably the descendants of the original immigrant to the Indian region. Next question was...so what are we? I smiled and said ... the product of a few thousand years of immigration, mixing and mingling. That we still keep up traditions, culture, food and languages is fascinating! I love the diversity and the differences because it gives me something to look forward to everywhere I go.
Great reading!
Rolling, I selected your post as a "People's Pick" on The Daily Scrawl, so hopefully you should be getting some "hits." If you aren't familiar with the Scrawl, just search under "Daily Scrawl" and click the latest post and you'll see your name in lights :-). (Unfortunately internal links don't seem to be working right now, but... ). Cheers.

Rama, what an odd coincidence you should mention Santals. I had (have) a post way back in October called Unshining India: Destroying the Adivasis, which also has a little personal background thrown in. Both of you might enjoy reading it (I hope).

P. S. The link above may or may not work. But you should be able to just click through my blog and find it. I'm not a "frequent poster" :-).
Saw this just today and loved it. Our family was in Agra six months ago driving towards the Taj Mahal. I grew up in the South (in Chennai and, in summer, in Kerala) and I felt that I was in alien territory several times. I was shocked that in such a touristy spot, you couldn't, for instance, find something reliable and tasty to eat between Agra and Delhi, between Agra and Jaipur and so on. The South, on the other hand, offers SO MUCH choice when you're doing road travel. I'm surprised that the Indian government has done zilch about this, considering the tourism in these parts.
Rama thank you, "product of a thousand years of mixing and mingling indeed". India is one country that never ever ventured out to crusade or convert anybody at any stage, isn't that amazing? Feel so proud of the fact.
Smithbarney thanking you here again after the PM. did read and loved the pictures on that post.
Kalpana, like reading your posts, thanks and welcome and yes, the West of India appears to be rather closed the way you mention.