AUGUST 22, 2011 10:10AM

West Virginia

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In recent years the Appalachian-derived branch of my family has taken to holding reunions each summer in the southwestern part of West Virginia, and I was able to attend this year and last.  Before the reunions I'd never been to West Virginia, but I immediately fell in love with this wild, rugged section of Appalachia. 

Note: click on an image to see it in larger format.  

 

 

We did a lot of hiking, and one of our favorite hikes was Castle Rock Trail in the Grandview area of the New River Gorge National River. 

 

This trail is considered "strenuous" on the National Park Service's scale of such things, and in many places you're scrambling over rocks and tree roots.

 

The trail winds along the base of towering sandstone cliffs.  

 

One of the many weird fungi growing along the path.

 

Not far from Castle Rock Trail is a sandstone formation called Turkey Spur. Here's the overlook atop the spur, which is reached by climbing way too many stairs which wind up the sides of the formation.  When we got up there, a cloud had veiled the usual panoramic view in eerie whiteness.

 

Looking into the emptiness was like seeing the edge of the universe, but soon the air began moving, and as the cloud flowed softly, damply past us, the landscape below began to reveal itself.

 

It was like veils were lifting...

 

Eventually, you could see all the way down to the river where it's bridged by a railroad trestle and Route 41.

 

A couple days later; the same bridges viewed from below.

 

Nearby is the abandoned coal company town of Royal, West Virginia; here we're examining one of the ruins. There was a plaque here commemorating the town which included these lines from an old song:

It's dark as a dungeon and damp as the dew
   Where the dangers are double and the pleasures are few
   Where the rain never falls and the sun never shines
   It's dark as a dungeon way down in the mines

 

To get down to the bridges and the abandoned coal town we had to hike the Little Laurel Trail.  It's an old coal/logging road, and on the way down I didn't understand why the NPS listed it as "strenuous."

 

On the way back up, it became clear.  Little Laurel, from the trailhead to the bottom near the New River, drops 1,400 feet in around a mile and a half, and while descending was a breeze, the ascent was more of a death march than a fun hike in the woods.  Here we're resting as I try to decide if I'm going to have a heart attack or not. (photo by Scott Dakota)

 

A typical West Virginia view; mountains piled on mountains.

 

The same view at sunset.

 

We stayed for several days at Babcock State Park, where there's a grist mill which is supposedly the most-photographed place in the state.  This is the mill viewed from below while standing in Glade Creek.

 

A little farther down the creek.

 

By mid-July the wild rhododendrons are pretty much done blooming, but along Glade Creek, possibly due to cooler conditions, they were still at their peak.

 

We spent an hour and a half to explore a quarter mile or so downstream from the mill.  Each new pool and riffle and moss-covered rock was a revelation, and I could easily have spent the whole day down there.  Here, from left to right, is Trig, cousin Scott, and Eli.

 

A sunburst through the trees near our cabin.

 

West Virginia is beautiful even when you aren't in the woods.  Here are black swallowtail butterflies on cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis).

 

________________________________________________________

 

BONUS SECTION: See Me Almost

Die in a Raging Mountain Torrent!

 

One of the many interesting activities during this summer's reunion was a rafting trip on the New River, a popular whitewater destination which flows through one of the deepest canyons east of the Mississippi.  Cousin Holly, who lives in the area, arranged the whole affair, which was a seven mile float through twenty rapids, some ranging up to Class 5. Eleven family members took part, distributed on two of the three rafts in our group, and a great time was had by all.

 

Some rapids we floated toward the end of our rafting trip, viewed from 900 feet up on the rim of the gorge.

 

The scenery was stunning and the opportunities for nature/adventure photography were limitless.  Unfortunately, you only bring your camera with you on the raft if you want to lose it.   By way of compensation, the outfitters place a videographer with each group; his job is to go ahead of the rafts in his kayak and position himself on a rock to film the clients as their boats pass through each rapid.  Then, once everyone is back at the bar enjoying the free beverages which are included in the price of the trip, the camera guy whips up a video montage of the day's events, complete with slow motion effects and cheesy rock songs, so that anyone who's interested can buy a CD movie of their day on the river.  

Below is a video which I edited from the original sold to us by the outfitters.  The part where I nearly die begins about 28 seconds in.

Watching the clip, it's difficult to see exactly how I got sucked off the raft; the footage shows me cartwheeling into the rapid for no apparent reason whatsoever.  What actually happened, though, is that as we were "surfing" into the hydraulic the videographer pointed out in the vid, I made the mistake of placing my paddle in the water.  It's impossible to overstate the power of the current in situations like this, and so, in what seemed like half a second, the water gripped my paddle and pulled it under the boat, with me still holding on to the damn thing.  I'm not a strong swimmer, and I was certain I'd be mangled against the rocks or swept into a crevice and drowned like a rat.  As the churning, chaotic water closed over my head I did as they'd said to do if you went off the raft; I pulled my limbs in and let the current carry me.  After an eternity which lasted only a few seconds, I popped back to the surface about twenty feet downstream, after which I grabbed my paddle and swam back to the boat, where I was unceremoniously hauled in like a wounded elephant seal.

In my raft that day were, on my side (port? starboard? left?), cousins Scott and Jeremy, and on the other side at the front were my nephew Eli and brother Steve, or Trig to you OSers.  A little farther along in the video, we jump off a giant rock into the river; the first jumper is Eli, followed by Jeremy, Uncle Arnie - 70 years young and still leaping off twenty foot rocks - and myself, then cousins Big Bill, Vanessa and Heather jumping in tandem, and Holly.

 

Back on dry land; Holly explaining why it's best not to fall in the river. (photo by Scott Dakota)

 

 

Anyway, that's all for now.  I could relate other adventures from the reunion, such as my first-ever ride on an ATV which I then rolled over on top of myself, or the fireworks imbroglio at Robin and Lee's where I was shot in the leg by a rogue incendiary device, but those are stories for another  day.

 

        
*
*
 * 

This last, brief video shows the family relaxing by a bonfire.  I have no recollection of shooting this, but it was on my camera's memory card so I know it must have happened.

 

 

 

Unless otherwise noted, all images ©2011 by nanatehay

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"Looking into the emptiness was like seeing the edge of the universe, but soon the air began moving, and as the cloud flowed softly, damply past us, the landscape below began to reveal itself."

You are poetic, what a perfect way to describe looking from within the Mystic. It's not often one can stand inside a cloud. I lingered a long time over the ones of the veils lifting.

You had me giggling too, deciding not to have a heart attack, defying the river's torrent and deflecting incendiary devices. Can't wait to hear about that one! Have you ever considered just laying around in a lounge chair?
It's one of those techniques we learn as we leave youthful things behind us...
Bleue! Laying around in a chair is safer, no question, but after a while doing that no amount of sucking in my gut could fool the camera.
This is insane. I've got to read this post !
Do you realize how much basndwidth you are sucking up here. Can't believe the site is still up.

Witnessing you tumble out of that raft from two feet away will remain a highlight of my life FOREVA! Captured on film? Priceless! A 10 on the spazzometer.

What an experience, the whole time there. Decent post : )
Yes, it's spazzolicious but it wasn't my fault, our guide wanted to kill me!

Kim, how goes it in Kampuchea? Looking forward to hearing about your journeys - there'd better be pitchers!
I'm only kidding about our guide; Justin was way cool.
Ha! great photos but I loved the spill out the best! big laugh out loud. The butterflies and forest are beautiful too, liked the fungi, can fungi look beautiful?
Nice job Nana. Looks like a great vacation.
Looking back on the spill-out it's pretty funny, but at the time I was all, like, wtf?
A gorgeous and generous post. I think I saw part of this last Friday but maybe I was dreaming, nana. Big WoW factor on those photos. You Appalachian boyz (and girls) now know to party. Cool videos.

Was never a big John Denver fan but ...
"Dark and dusty, painted on the sky
Misty taste of moonshine,
teardrop in my eye" ... always got me.

Any visions of life flashing before you in that "eternity which lasted only a few seconds?"
Hi Scarlett. There was lots of life flashing; once in the water everything seemed like slow motion. And yeah, I tried posting the video last Friday but OS was messing up so bad I deleted it.
We don't call it Kampuchea anymore nan.
I just wrote Rita : I'm starting up a school here - Henry Kissinger Memorial Primary School For Legless.
You like contribute I happy.
Vely happy. You like.
I talk you soon.
Well they shouldn't have left all that unexploded ordnance laying around.

Oh, wait a minute, was that us? Well they shouldn't have made us bomb them so much - all the dominoes were gonna fall, we had no choice but to send in the B-52s!
Lock Robster - I gotta find some stairs, it's like 11.30 here & they're looking at me funny - sleepy-time extra - W Virginia looks beautiful - I've gotta come back & read this post, you know ?
I will - no bs, nan. I will read this post if it's the last effin thing I do.
Loved this, loved yr photos, love rafting the New River, love WV. Hope you'll stick with me on hating mountaintop removal!
Wow, looks like you barely survived your vacation.

And, hey, look at all those trees - aren't they nice?
I'm most definitely with you on that one, Steve. There was no mountain-top removal going on in the areas we were at, but even as we speak whole mountains and watersheds are being destroyed by the practice in West Virginia and parts of Kentucky and Pennsylvania. And for what? So a few coal companies get to maximize their bottom line.

Get some sleep Kim, time enough to read when you're back in 'Stralia. One of the cool things about a vacation is being able to step away from the 'puter.
When I worked in TN, I traveled back and forth between my home town in PA and TN. I remember passing through a corner of WV with a sign that said "Welcome to wild, wonderful West Virginia." I guess the sign was right.
I barely survive my family reunions too and all we do is sit around and eat. Surrounded (in central Alberta) by far less wonderful TREES.
Myriad; ha! The trees back there are off the hook; in a hike down any mountain you pass through five distinct bands of forest. I'm pretty good at identifying plants, but there were many trees there which I had no idea what species they were.
Sarah; the signs are accurate!
That really scared me, seeing you sucked under the raft like that. I think that video needs to be examined as closely as the Zapruder film so that we can find out what actually happened. I suspect foul play!
Such gorgeous mountains!
Love your editing and music on the rafting short : )
Glad you popped back up there...
But the laughter around the bonfire is the best-- a clan that knows how to have fun....cool ! Thanks for sharing these...
I agree, Jeanette; I'm almost certain there was a grassy knoll somewhere nearby.

Just Thinking; as great as the scenery was, just being around family was even cooler.
West Virginia is definitely on my bucket list. One of the few states I've yet to visit. I think the infamous (amongst bikers anyway) Dragon's Tale is in WV, or somewhere in that vicinity

As to the riving rafting, I have an eerily similar story, which I'll spare you for now.
PS. The bald look suits you. I'd do the same if I didn't have such a freakishly pointed head.
I know what you mean; I put off shaving my head for years 'cause I was afraid I'd look like that guy from The Hills Have Eyes.
Super pretty state is West Virginia. The New River Gorge, great climbing, Gaully too with with New, and Sennaca Rocks. If you like the outdoors, really cool place to be. Great pictures Nana. Thanks for sharing. If it makes you feel any better, on the Gaulley, at Pillow Rock, the vultures gather to watch which rafter went in, me, so laugh not at for whom the raft tips.
Sounds like you know the area Don. Our guide was saying the Gauley was the one to float if you want to see real rapids. The New was enough for me though, given my innate cowardice.
I did mean that, it was the best part to me, hearing all that laughter : )

Even better than the stick-straight first leg as you went right over.
Glad you made it out alive - otherwise we would have missed these excellent photos - thank you for sharing - I got my mini-vaca for today through your lens.
Great photos. The sunset was superb. Mystical if you will.
Pitching yourself off the raft not so mystical but understandable. I have rafted those sorts of waters led by a buddy who is rated as a guide on class 5 rapids. He nearly swallowed the Rogue River whole last week, so it can happen to anybody.
That’s what summer is for: tales of peril, death marches through scenic forested trails, self immolation with fireworks, etc. I wish I had the pics of me yanking the huge treble fishing hook out of the top of my wife’s skull with some rusty pliers. Good times!
you have such a talent for taking pics and compiling them with bits of story, and this post is a gem, jeff. the poem about working in the mines made the hair on my arms stand up. the photo of the sunburst and the series of the mists lifting and the duo of the mountains day and sunset are so excellent. sorry you took a header off the boat, but i must say it was pretty freaking graceful, actually. thanks for putting this together and loading it on the molasses site OS has become - it's a ton of work. i've never been to WVa - this was a treat.
My pet rabbit died in 1967 during a particularly hellish day of the Viet-Nam war... at noon.
These are really beautiful photographs. I love the fungi and the white, eerie nothingness...~r
Great post, thanks for sharing, especially the video.
R
Your photos are sublime as usual and I have to come back to give them a closer look. I had no idea there was such a thing as wild rhododendron; it's much prettier than the ones you see in front yard flower beds. "Mountains piled on mountains." What a great description of such a spectacular place; seeing them makes it hard to understand how anyone could tear up a place like this for coal. Your family reunion sounds like it was a dream vacation.

As for the rafting trip, however - when someone tells me it's best not to fall in the river, I take that to the nth degree and decline to get on the boat, raft, jet ski or whatever. This is exactly why amusement parks have water rides; because human beings weren't meant to do things like this without the opportunity to sue or at least get a free pass for another visit. And the trail thing? Don't they have ski lifts or zip lines or emergency buttons on trees to call someone to get you? Trust this seasoned explorer and naturalist: You MUST plan ahead and investigate things like this before you go sallying off into the wild. This is how people DIE; they don't prepare in advance. You just never know when an innocent little family trek in the woods can turn into a modern day Donner Party fiasco.
Feels like we're there with you. Love the photos (esp. the sunset). And your harrowing raft trip is something else. (Been on the New River, and remember those #5s!) Glad you will live to keep up the fight against the crazies of the world.
Late to the party, as usual. Beautiful photos, Nana.
Your cartwheel style is excellent......!

You were going, “wtf”???!!!

I’d a been going, “aarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggghhhh....... H A L P !!

.
So you've been there, Lea; awesome! Along with Don Rich that's two OSers who know the New River. The more I watch this video and check out these pics the more I realize what a fantastic time it all was; gratitude to the universe for the gifts life can bring us.

Margaret, as always I applaud your practicality. At one point I was actually considering sending Eli ahead to bring our vehicle down the trail to pick me up, but that would have involved him having to remove the big barricade put at the trailhead by the National Park Service which stated in giant capital letters "NO VEHICLES BEYOND THIS POINT." Regarding wild rhododendrons, I agree; they have a charm which many of the cultivars you see in suburbia don't. Part of that is the setting I guess.

Back in a minute to respond further to comments...
I traveled with Lea Lane. What Fun to ride in a P.U. Truck. Yew see sheep.
You hop in a Farm Truck into the boondocks. It's a "Open" Salon's wondrous ride hay? ride?
Get mop hair crop-sheared.
Enjoy Romney, W.V. travel.
Travel West Virginia, a`hoe.
`
Oops ? PopUp `Gin from Open Salon.
okay. So-You stoop/snoop a`Gin. Ay!
?
Well. That's typical\You Kerry L. huh?
Enjoy raw honey from\Romney, W. V.?
Buy @ a`near the White House market?
`
Spring Valley Farm & Orchard, W. V.?
Romney, WEst Virginia's Pure Honey.
FDA allows commercial honey to bee?
Diluted with Corn Syrup. Unbelievable.
`
Try PURE West Virginia's PURE comb.
The chunk comb is octagon bee's shape.
The seal on the comb's top is a 'paraffin'

Flammable bee-wax, off-white`pure film.
Nature insures `a perfect-medicine food.
No bacteria can live in Pure-Honey-Comb.
Medical surgeons and child Pediatricians?
They request PURE anti-bacterial honey.
No bacteria can survive in PURE honey.
Pharm's Rh # are such quackery baloney.
My daughter-in-law is a` West Virginian.
`
Art James! I want some honey really bad now, but not any of that dreck they dilute with corn syrup. I wonder sometimes if there's any processed food without corn syrup in it.

Sky, if I'd tried saying that it would have come out "aarrrrrrrrrrr::glub::" As I was falling in I only had time to think "??????"

Voicegal, one of my longest-time OS friends, it's good to see you. I'm glad you liked my pitchers.

Chuck; thankee kindly sir!

Joan, it was exhilarating to have a cloud flow over me. We don't get to do stuff like that in Kansas.

Dr. Lee, I'm glad you thought so.

Trig; I'm not going to knock that guy, but I guess if I wanted on the cover today I should have wrote about my long-lost goldfish. And they say there's not a black list...
they conscripted trig's rabbit ? wtf
I still grieve for Margaret...RIP my little bunny
trig's rabbit was called Margaret ? wt wtf

such a senseless waste of rabbits
Next time, remember to point those toes!

Gawd, you guys know how to have fun!
That sunset, like a soul implant,

and epic flip, both your's

and your nephew's.
Candace, the frozen molasses shit makes me wonder sometimes why I waste my time in OS. I guess it's because of the friends I've made here.

AKA, you totally need to write a post about pulling that treble hook out, the more graphic the better.

Lammchops; thank you for visiting my blog!

Just Thinking, my form there was pretty good wasn't it? I give myself at least a 7 for style.

It wasn't really a rabbit, Kim. We didn't have much money in those days and couldn't afford pets, so one time Dad let Trig keep a squirrel we found staggering around the yard sick with distemper. We called it Icko because of the constant mucus discharges, and as you may imagine it was quite a relief when it finally died.

Linnn, point my toes you say? Check. I'll file that tip away for my next near death experience. :P

Inverted, the sunset pic is my favorite. Eli's flip edged mine out for epicness, if for no other reason than his was intentional.
looks like the Pigeon Forge area I went to on vacation- it was the second prettiest place I've seen in the US. The badlands still hold #1 and Sedona is third.
Trees, fog and family :) doesn't get much better than that.
glad you didn't hit your head on those rocks that cause the rapids and drown... that would have been alot less funny :/
Too right; a cracked skull followed by a drowning wouldn't have been as funny.
I drove past Sedona once but didn't get a chance to check it out. And which badlands are you referring to? I've seen the ones in South Dakota near the Black Hills, though not since I was a kid. I remember cool rock formations and lots of fossils.
Stunning shots. Great job on everything. Should have been EP'd. Thanks for giving us a taste of W VA country. Always heard it was gorgeous.
Thanks Harry. I recommend checking it out if you get a chance; the coal companies are trying to turn it into Mordor but there's still a lot of beautiful country there.
I dunno which badlands? I was just back from living in Germany and hated it here (all I ever saw was suburban cement and shopping malls), my biodad took me cross country in the car from CA to IL. :) He convinced me that here is pretty too.
Mostly what I've got left in my head are memory snapshots of driving on an afternoon when the sun was still up and so was the moon and the sky was gorgeous and the mountains went down not up. It was like driving right into an Ansel Adams shot. We never did go fossil hunting, but that was alright. It's on the list :)
Great pics and dramatic video nana. Those song lyrics you quoted, are they from one of the ones on Will the Circle be Unbroken (Nitty Gritty Dirt Band)?
If you were travelling from Cali to Illinois it was most likely the South Dakota Badlands. I love that area around the Black Hills; we used to go up there every summer and see the Crazy Horse monument, Mt. Rushmore, Custer State Park, Deadwood, the Badlands, Spearfish Canyon, and etc. Your description of driving through there is beautiful.

Abra, yeah, the lyrics are from an old Merle Travis song which Nitty Gritty Dirt Band covered on Will The Circle Be Unbroken. That's a really good album, actually.
So where did trig get the idea that he had a pet rabbit called margaret that was shot in the war then ?
Some kind of cruel older bro joke or something.
I read your post - it's incredible - especially the nearly dying bit.
Love the sunset pic too. Mainly the whole lovey-family thing.
Hope Irene doesn't do Kansas, but "there goes NYC" according to CNN, as I write. CNN's the only english-speaking news here, & I've got to tell you, I don't want to go down into those tunnels with the arabic-speaking woman one more time, or revisit the journalist-hostage drama from another point of view one more time.
I'd never seen CNN before - what's with that Quest guy ?
Trig s0metimes embellishes stories from his childhood; his inaccurate recounting of the name and species of poor Icko is an example of that. There are many other similar cases, some even more squalid than this one.
If you value your sanity, do not watch more than ten minutes of the CNN eternal news loop at one sitting. Regarding Richard Quest, he's some limey git they originally hired to cover English cultural events, but in recent months he has morphed into a supposed "expert" on economic matters. He's a perfect illustration of the way CNN long ago quit doing actual journalism and now focuses instead on tabloid-style "infotainment."
@kim and nana: the only time i was in paris (abt 8 yrs ago) quest was a CNN-euro news guy who was so amped, it was like watching a guy on speed read british tabloid papers in a time trial. maybe the europeans got so sick of the guy that cnn shipped him over here. or maybe cnn thinks he appeals to the niche market they're trying to steal from E or TMZ - people who hate the news but love loud kraazy people with big teeth.
hm. sounds like a hell of a bonfire, if u have no memory of it.
pictures are beyond gorgeous: they are , to use a trite phrase,
awe inspiring.
"It's impossible to overstate the power of the current in situations like this" sums up Mother Nature's immense
seeming indifference to us ...
yet she made us too, along with all this beautiful natural stuff.

maybe we are a little bit beautiful too?

for god's sake, next time keep your paddle in your hands
and just glide, baby..
"She made us too." Exactly so, James. Our culture, driven by Judeochristian belief systems, likes to pretend there's a separation between humanity and nature, but that supposed separation is purely artificial. Being tossed about like a bit of flotsam by a river is a good way to see just how artifical it is.

Candace; one day soon all our food will be extruded and all our cultural icons will be loud kraazy people with big teeth. 'Til then we'll just have to limp along with the residual effects of an era when people still expected to be informed by news programs.
Gosh, I'm sitting here waiting for Irene and discover this fantastic post! You have me suspended between the visual otherworldliness and the comical raft travelogue. Your video debut into the deep was a perfect cartwheel--hmmm, were you a cheerleader in your youth? Anyhow--I so want to go here! Thanks for this!
Isn't Jimmy E a bonus comment/ator - love me James E Esq.
Love that about trig - that romantic kind of oblivion he's in,
and love it about Candace & her take on Quest - thought for a moment there I was watching a trained lunatic - now I think I know I was - thanks for that.
Big boat race on river about begin Luang Prabang musn't miss.
'fraid I must miss - laundry, quiet street, musn't miss - so much not to miss.
Thinking I could die here - really.
Things are that beautiful right now.
(don't mind a bit of skirt either, or pics of papillon )
Dunking, the oldest mountains in the world, and chantrelle mushrooms. A great travelogue!
Dirndl skirt, thank you for visiting my blog. I was never a cheerleader, though I must admit I always liked the little outfits. :P

You're right Kim, James ain't no common tater. I'm glad it's so beautiful where you're at, and I'm looking forward to hearing about your travels.

ONL, are those chanterelles in that pic? If I'd known that I'd have et 'em!
If you can survive almost drowning and still come back and share your photography as poetry, then truly you have a poet’s heart.

I fell in love with the mist and the edge of the universe and the veils lifting.
Then I saw the mountain view at sunset and fell in love again. Lovely these. Lovely you.
You always say such wonderful things, Anna. Thank you for that.
Damn, I could have swore I was over here already, made a wonderful comment about your pretty bald head and rated it! Damned if I did!! oh well, you got a pretty bald head!!!

And P.S.

There's no Black List. Ed I Tor told me so, and would she lie to me?

Of course not!! :D
P.S.

If you ever do drown some day, can I have your bedroom?

:D
If I drown, yes, you can have my room, though you'll have to share it with my valet, Paquito. It's in my will. He's prone to night terrors and has really smelly feet, but on the plus side he used to work for the TSA and is an accredited body cavity search expert.
That sounds lovely!!! Hurry up and drown!! Oops, I mean, I HOPE YOU LIVE FOREVER!! :D
I've named you and Paquito co-beneficiaries on my life insurance policy, but only on the condition that the money goes toward bioengineering an Armenian prostitute with three boobs. Think of the benefits to mankind if we succeed!
3 boobs? Why, we'll make 10!!! One for each survivor of the Gutter Krew!! Cap'n will be soooooo happy!! ;)
By my count, that will leave at least 4 extras. Oh well, there's no such thing as too many boobs.
Awesome post, but one day, I'd like to explain to you why it's best not to fall into a river...
I'd be hanging on your every word...
Boy AND Howdy, whadda ride! Psssshew.. WHAT a great post - you really brought us into the pictures, real beauties. Hope ya don't mind, but I had to snatch a couple for screens. The panoramas are just magnifico, and I like to stare into chasms. Also love the inscript-pome on the mine, haunting. Lovely to have, still, such family... and great job on the travelogue!!
Choice hillbillyness captured here. That rafting vid... wow
Choice hillbillyness captured here. That rafting vid... wow