
I recently read that Harp seal mommies nurse their pups for just 12 days before leaving them in the cold North Atlantic waters to search for food. The seal mother’s milk is thick enough to sustain the pup, in fact the book described it as “creamy and thick like mayonnaise.” Another reminder, this time from the animal kingdom, that mayonnaise is the stuff of life.
I come from mayonnaise people. I was raised on mayonnaise. We weren’t loyalists in my parents' house, all brands had a tryout - Kraft, Blue Plate, Hellmann’s and the staple of the South, Duke’s. There was an unfortunate, dark time of a healthy eating kick that meant strange mayo pretend-to-be’s were stocked. A lesson learned the hard way: mayonnaise needs real fat to taste good.
Mayonnaise is a constant thread through the kitchens I have known - my grandmother put mayonnaise in a celadon ceramic crock beside a plate of sliced garden tomatoes. My husband is from Macon, Georgia, and he remembers his grandma serving pound cake slices slathered in mayonnaise and fried. Mayonnaise is culinary glue - it holds together any number of salads - egg, pimento cheese, chicken, tuna, cole slaw, potato. As the basis of a sauce, it can dress up everything from fish to pasta.
Here is a menu celebrating the accessorizing power of mayonnaise and the Dorado that my husband caught last week. It’s a little South of France meets Heart of Dixie, and a tribute to the universality of mayonnaise, a sauce which, if Wikipedia is to be believed, came to France by way of Spain. I used the mayonnaise from a jar, but the recipes are easily adapted to homemade mayo. Follow Francis Lam’s detailed instructions or my streamlined cheat sheet:
Pan-Fried Dorado Sliders with Spicy Tartar Sauce
Fish Stew with Red Pepper Aioli

Pan Fried Dorado Sliders with Spicy Tartar Sauce
For the sliders, I dredged chunks of Dorado in seasoned flour and cornmeal and fried them until done. I served them on mini buns with shredded cabbage and this spicy tartar sauce.
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
10 pickled jalapeño rounds, minced
Three teaspoons dill pickle relish
Juice of 1/2 lime
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
1. In a bowl, mix all ingredients together. Make ahead for better flavor. Store in refrigerator.

Fish stew
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 leeks, chopped, use the whites and part of the greens
1 cup white wine
2 cups shrimp stock or clam juice or water
4 cloves garlic
Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
1/2 pound fish fillets, chopped into bite-size pieces
1. In a stockpot, saute carrot and leeks in olive oil until soft. Add white wine and cook until reduced by half. Add stock or clam juice or water, and garlic and cook for 10 minutes.
2. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add fish and cook for about 5 minutes, or until cooked through. Serve with red pepper aioli.
Red pepper aioli
1 cup mayonnaise
1 roasted, peeled and seeded red bell pepper
5 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
1. In a food processor, with blade running, drop in garlic cloves. Add bell pepper and process until pasty. Add remaining ingredients and process. Make a day ahead for better flavor. Store in refrigerator.

This is my husband's childhood treat, a slice of my homemade cream cheese pound cake, buttered on both sides with mayonnaise and cooked on a griddle. It's sweet and salty at the same time. I would say add sweetened berries and whipped cream, but it's pretty indulgent on its own.
© 2010, Lucy Mercer.


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Comments
Hey LC! Imagine seeing you here! ;) I've never had mayonnaise on poundcake either 0r Dorado! We eat breem and mullet from the inland waters; cobia, flounder, grouper and snapper from the Gulf; and when my parents go further south to fish they bring back redfish, snook and trout. It just goes to show you how varied Southern cuisine is -- one region's "classic" is another region's "whatt???" Just like the accents.
On a very sad sidenote. My friend Ellen caught at 68 lb cobia last week. They sold it on the docks and kept a 40 pounder to split. She gave me a few fillets. As I cooked it up on Friday, I wondered if it would be the last fresh Gulf of Mexico seafood I might ever eat.
Rated
LC: I can't wait for someone to tell me they've eaten pound cake this way, too. I'm hoping for a pound cake skc, because mine is really, really good. I'll save you a slice.
Bell: Hubby brought the dorado back from the Keys. I love the fish you can get - esp. bream, which is a favorite childhood memory (red clay SC). Heartbreaking what's happening in the Gulf.
Linda: the fried pound cake is like a salty French toast. Frying seems to intensify the salt in the mayo. Texture is very much like French toast. & thanks for the compliment on the photos. Hope you don't get tired of the same old square plates.
Shiral: I'm with you on the Hellmann's, it's my favorite. Thanks for reading!
I think it must be a southern thing.
South of France, southern U.S.A., all the same.
We just know how to live!
Wright: I prefer Hellmann's, of course, but I can't look down on anyone who uses the Whip. There but for the grace of God...Thanks for reading!
Jenna: the aoili really makes the stew - try them together. Thanks for reading!
Mamie: missed your story this week! Give the pound cake a try - my kids were crazy for it (like French toast only not as good for you, how's that for an endorsement?).