Procopius

Procopius
Location
Rockford, Illinois, USA
Birthday
February 05
Bio
I'm a regular middle aged guy, living in a regular middle class neighborhood, in a regular middle-sized community in the middle of America. I am an expatriate Texan transplanted to the Midwest, and wondering how I got here, and where I'm headed.

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Salon.com
JUNE 7, 2009 12:34AM

A Trip to Lake Michigan's Sleeping Bear Dunes

Rate: 26 Flag

Last week, I blogged about one of my favorite coastal areas in the United States, Padre Island National Seashore.  Today, we travel 1,400 miles to the northeast, from the hot, semi-arid coast of South Texas, to the humid,  cool, often frigid shore of Lake Michigan, in the northwestern part of Michigan's Lower Peninsula. 

As the glaciers melted during the end of the last ice age more than 10,000 years ago, they left great depressions on the earth's surface that quickly filled with the melting glacial water.  Thus were born the Great Lakes of North America.  Along the eastern shore of what became Lake Michigan, great moraines were left behind by the retreating ice sheets.  A moraine is made of rocks and other debris that collect between two ice sheets.  When the ice melts, the debris forms a rocky, elongated hill.  The northern Lake Michigan moraine was constantly pounded by the waves that formed as a result of the prevailing westerly winds.  The constant wave action against the moraine caused the rocky ground to erode into sand that was suspended in the water.  The fine sand would eventually be deposited along the west side of the moraine, and over time the westerly winds would push the sand higher and higher up its side.  After a few thousands of years, the sand-covered moraines became what we know today as the Sleeping Bear Dunes. 

In 1970, much of this unique landscape was purchased by the federal government to create the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.  The national park property includes spectacular beaches, the Manitou Islands, crystal clear Lake Michigan water, and northern boreal forests just a few hundred yards inland.

Welcome to the Sleeping Bear Dunes of Northwestern Lower Michigan.

 

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As you approach the shoreline, the forests give way to scrubby brush and grasses, allowing you to catch a glimpse of the fog-shrouded lake far off in the distance.

 

dune approach

 

 

If you wish to descend down the dune to the water, make sure you are up to the task...

 

  dune warning sign

 

 

 ...because what goes down must eventually climb back up!

 

dune boats1

 

 

Most visitors seem content to remain on top of the dune to watch the procession of the brave and foolish hike down, only to make the difficult return a short while later.

 

dune climb1

 

 

But for those who do choose to hike down, the watery reward is often worth the effort...

 

  dune shore walk

 

 

 ...that is, as long as you don't mind a little cold water!

 

  dune cold water

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I used to swim in Lake Michigan in Chicago. By Labor Day, the water temperature would finally make it to 70. It's called hardy swimming. Later when I went to Oregon, I found really, really cold water. It never gets above 58 in the ocean there. Thanks for the excellent post.
People look like small ants on those giant dunes! What a beautiful place, Thanks for the pictures and the information.
Oh yeah - I grew up in that area - gorgeous. This piece brought back memories. And cold water is relative - we made a tradition of swimming by Memorial Day!
I grew up near Silver Lakes Sand Dunes, but I have been to Sleeping Bear, too. Brings back memories. Wonderful summers, bone chilling winters.
I love that area - so surreal. Thanks for letting more people know about it!

@Nerdyjen - right now, I am sitting about 15 miles south of the Silver Lake dunes! Where did you grow up?
Procopius -I always mean to mention when I read your posts, that I grew up in Rockford and got my undergrad degree from Rockford College . My family left there in the 90's but I think about it everytime I see your name!
Ah, childhood memories singing of Michigan: "You can ride a yellow sand dune, in a great big, bouncy car!"

I never got to the dunes as a kid, but you brought me there now. Thanks!
I love northwest Michigan, and have been to these dunes recently. Nearby is a wonderful peninsula, now with loads of wineries. And the cherries are wonderful in the summer. I think this part of Michigan will become one of those places that is "discovered" soon. Thanks for sharing the beauty.
Beautiful! I camped there about fifteen years ago on a circle tour of Lake Michigan. Love the pictures, esp. the shivering kid.
lefty, I think the water was about 62 degrees the 4th of July weekend I was last there. But the temps on the eastern shore are usually several degrees warmer than the temps on the western shore, due to the prevailing winds that move the surface water eastward, forcing cold water from the depths to the surface on the western shore.

Marcella, it puts the size of the dunes in perspective, doesn't it!

Owl, I once tried to swim Lake Superior on Memorial Day. I was not successful.

jen, that entire eastern shoreline in Michigan is really amazing, isn't it?

Mamoore, I'm not a native Rockfordian, but have been here for nearly 15 years. I have a friend who is an English professor at the college.

Pilgrim, glad I could take you there!

Lea, you are of referring to the peninsula that sticks out from Traverse City, I suspect. And yes, the orchards in the northern dune areas are great. We especially love the Michigan blueberries. It seems like the Dunes are well known by Chicagoans and others from the Great Lakes region, but once you get far away, people are surprised that such an environment exists so far from the sea.

Nora, the children are the kids of some very dear friends who joined us on a vacation there about 5 years ago. The boy you are referring to had just gotten splashed by a wave, and yes, it was cold.
I lived in Burdickville on big Glen Lake. Spent many days at the dunes. They grow too. There are a few parking lots under that front area because of the constant deposition/movement of sand. I ran down that HUGE lake side bluff. And did a face plant in the sand. It almost looks like you can throw a rock to the water (hence the warning about throwing rocks) but your effort falls extremely short... There was a couple that got stuck down there and had to be airlifted out about a week before we got there. I can totally understand that. It IS a long climb out...

I loved living there... It was a slow and easy time in my life. Although the mosquitoes are legend. They are known to snatch small children and drain them of blood... ;-)
Steve, the dune in photo #4 is the dune to end all dunes! I have never seen any dune along a shoreline that is as high and steep. My maternal grandmother's grandparents used to have a summer place in Omena, MI in the latter part of the 1800s which is on the other side of the peninsula and more to the north. I still have the photos somewhere in my house which show a very rustic kind of dwelling like you would find in the Adirondacks. Thanks for a fascinating look at this national lakeshore park!
gonzoid, I think quite a few people have to be rescued every year, not realizing just how strenuous a 45 degree climb on soft sand can be. With each step you take, your foot slides down close to a foot, making the 450 foot dune more like a 650 foot climb! Glen Lake, btw, is really beautiful as I recall.

John, it is quite a dune, isn't it? The area is really quite nice, with lots of charming inns, resorts, and B&B's. There is a lot of old Midwest money in that area, and like the Adirondacks, families return to vacation there year after year.
YES MICHIGAN! REMARKABLE BELT!
Ahh. . .I needed a vacation. I'm much better now. Thanks!
Thanks for this and I love the sand dunes...would love to roll down those.
Nothing like a hot, sweaty body hitting ice cold lake water, yikes!! Striking photos and descriptions. Note to Barry: you want Calf Wars? Check out the legs on the people (including kids) who make it down and back up.
This photo essay concludes with munchkins, not derricks. Yeah!

I can relate to that sign, since living on a ridge top means almost all directions begin with the downhill. Glad you threw in a little geology too.
Kathy, I think Michigan is underrated as a vacation destination, at least for those who live far from the Midwest.

Roger, a virtual vacation ain't quite the same as the real thing, but I guess it's better than nothing. Maybe.

Mary, it would be a long roll!

Sally, that water can take your breath away.

Stacey, thankfully no derricks anywhere near here! But lots of chilly children.
Oh yeah, I bet it is very cold! Great roadie and pics! You are built just like my husband, one tall drink of water. He's from Minn. My father was born in Bridgeman, MI., north of Detroit, I beleive? I really enjoyed this post very much.
Rolling down the dunes? The sand would get everywhere. I do mean everywhere... Yes, walking up that bluff was a lot of work. At the time I was a lot older then the first time I did it and a lot heavier but the thought of having to be rescued pushed me on towards the top and a vow to never do it again... It is a great place to vacation IMO. Lots of little towns and places to see. Just the smell of the big water makes me wish I was there. The bonfires and watching the storms move in over the lake. Jumping off the raft and snorkeling in the drop off. There was a guy that had one of those boat/cars and every weekend he'd drive the thing to the boat launch and drive across the lake. Ahh, memories...

My grandparents ran a resort in Burdickville.
Pro, is there any place in the lower 48 that you haven't been? ;~)

geography, history, geology, I always know I'm going to learn something worth knowing about from your posts, thanks
Michigan got dunes! Michigan got dunes! Thanks for this excursion.
I remember the first time I saw those dunes, I think I was eight or nine. We, by sibs and I, rolled, tumbled, and ran down. And climbed back up, exhausted, but then... back down again! My mum did it with us once, and then waited for us at the bottom. We swam all afternoon.

I will always love Michigan best.
A few months ago, I started writing a story about one of the scariest nights of my life. In case it never comes to print, I will share that the night ended safely at the top of the dunes. Maybe some day I will finish it -- thanks for reminding me! :)
Cathy, thanks!

Roy, there are plenty of places yet to see! But thanks for the kind words.

zuma, Michigan certainly do!

wakingupslowly, it sounds like your mum was a smart woman.

Lisa, what a tease! You had better finish that story!
I grew up in Ohio with a dad who shared his love of geology. I spent many an hour examining the stratification of sedimentary rocks in gravel pits, picking through for small fossils. I loved it. The rolling topography of Ohio & all of that area owes a great deal to the glaciers.

I love anything with a grand height! I'm sure I would enjoy both the up and down, sand and all .....
My sister-in-law got married in that neck of the woods (closer to Frankfort I think, but to be honest I just followed directions emanating from the driver's seat). It's a lovely part of the country. I think it's what people think they're getting when they go to the Cape, before they discover how crowded it is.
artsfish, it's great that your father taught you to appreciate how the rocks came to be what and where they are. It makes you appreciate the landscape, doesn't it?

Haggis, apparently this little corner of the country has been discovered by more than I realized!
It's further south than where you were, but I used to attend Presbyterian church camp as a kid (before I embraced my inner aetheist) in Saugatuck, Michigan. We used to climb to the top of Mt. Baldy at midnight under the northern lights through the thick pines that grew straight up in the sand, and race down the steep sand hill back to camp. Beautiful place. Thanks for sparking my memory with photos.
Cool. Never been, now will try.
sactogator, I know the area you're referring to, although I haven't actually overnighted around there.

Don, it's a wonderful vacation destination, with a host of lodging choices, from very fancy inns and B&B's, to inexpensive cabins.
I grew up in Michigan and we loved Sleeping Bear and the dune buggy rides. I still love Michigan - but I don't live there anymore.
grif, I don't think they allow the dune buggies anymore. But I'll bet they were fun!
My mother is from the little town of Frankfort and my father is from the even smaller town of Scottville, both in northwestern lower Michigan. It is my studied opinion that the dune country is the finest place on Earth. Rated for sand so clean it squeaks.