The mountains began to form about 250 million years ago, part of an immense tropical barrier reef that stretched some 400 miles, from what is now Central New Mexico, through far West Texas, into Northern Mexico.  Eventually, the shallow sea retreated, leaving behind great deposits of silt and sand that completely covered the reef for millions of years.  Over time, however, portions of the reef experienced tectonic uplift, exposing fossilized remnants that are visible today as great, isolated mountain ranges rising thousands of feet above the Chihuahuan Desert floor.

One of those fossil ranges rises dramatically along the border of Texas and New Mexico.  About 12,000 years ago, Native Americans discovered great tracts of timber, fresh water, and wildlife hidden within the mountains, all of which provided welcome sustenance in an area that was otherwise dry and devoid of many of life’s necessities.  By the time Europeans arrived and bestowed the name of Guadalupe Mountains to the range, Mescalero Apaches claimed them as their own. 

It took hundreds of years for Europeans to displace the Apaches as owners of the mountains.  But as was the case throughout  modern American history, the fate of the Native American inhabitants was not a happy one.  Their primary camps were destroyed by American Cavalry in 1869, and soon after that the Mescalero were moved to reservations in Southern New Mexico.

Once the Apache were gone, the Guadalupes became the domain of cattle and a few hearty cattlemen.  The range first received national attention in the early 20^th century, after a gigantic cave was discovered in the northern foothills.  We know those caves today as Carlsbad Caverns. They are among the deepest, most extensive, and stunningly beautiful network of caves in the world.  These New Mexico foothills and the caves underneath were given national park status mid-century, but the high peaks to the south remained in private hands, largely undiscovered and unexplored by the general public. 

That changed – a little bit – in 1966 when Congress authorized the purchase of the mountains from private landholders for the creation of a new national park.  The land transfer was completed in 1970, and in 1972 the 86,000 acre Guadalupe Mountains National Park opened to the public.  The park, located in Texas just south of the New Mexico border, includes the highest peaks of the mountain range.  It is officially designated a wilderness area, which means there are virtually no facilities available.  The few roads within the park boundary are only found along its periphery.  There are no concessions, and the only water to be found in the park’s interior is the jug you carry in your backpack, or the canteen attached to your belt.  There are a few streams, but their water flow is intermittent at best.  You cannot depend on any natural source of water in this desert environment.

In short, the time you spend in the Guadalupe Mountains National Park will be time spent in a true wilderness.  Those who venture into the back country must understand that fact and come prepared.  But the preparation is worthwhile.  Come and see why!

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For many, the first view of the Guadalupe Mountains National Park will be this one.  This picture was taken from the Visitor's Center of Carlsbad Caverns National Park.  The main peaks of the Guadalupes are just visible on the horizon about 40 miles away, on the right side of this photo.

Those approaching the park from the west will first drive through a salt flat depression.  After a rare heavy rainfall, the salt flats will briefly hold standing water.  In fact, the salt flats will show up as lakes on some older maps of the area.  The highest point in this photo is Guadalupe Peak, which at 8,749 feet is the highest point in Texas.  It rises nearly a vertical mile above the salt flats, which are at 3,600 feet in elevation.

The southern-most peak in the range is called El Capitan.  In the nineteenth century El Capitan was called Signal Peak, for the smoke signals often seen rising from its summit, an ancient form of telecommunications used by the Mescalero Apache.

The drive along the base of El Capitan is one of the most scenic in Texas. Pictured here is the entrance to Guadalupe Pass, which separates El Capitan from the foothills to the east.  This is one of the windiest places in the United States.  It is not unusual for this road to be closed to truck traffic due to dangerous winds.  In 1980 I personally witnessed a tanker truck blow over about 70 miles northeast of here, near the town of Carlsbad.

The most popular day hike in the Guadalupe Moutains is along the McKittrick Canyon trail.  The trail begins in the desert on the eastern edge of the range.  Before long, the desert terrain starts to show more variety in plant life.  Arid becomes semi-arid, and soon cacti are replaced with grasses, junipers, pinyons, ponderosa pines, maples, and even aspens.

The trail follows McKittrick Creek.  It is an intermittent stream, and is not a reliable source of drinking water.

After an hour or so on the trail, it is easy to forget you began your hike in a stark desert.

The interior of the Guadalupe Mountains is considered a "green island", an area of verdant forests surrounded by mile after mile of desert terrain.  The forests are remnants from the last ice age, when this area was much cooler and wetter than it is today.  30,000 years ago the deserts of West Texas and Southern New Mexico were a far different place, full of streams and forests.  As the climate became hotter and drier, the woods retreated, and are now found only in the protected canyons and cool uplands of the mountains.  These isolated forests are home to elk, mule deer, black bears, and cougars.  Hikers of the human variety are guests in their domain.