Procopius

Procopius
Location
Rockford, Illinois, USA
Birthday
February 05
Bio
I'm a regular middle aged guy, living in a regular middle class neighborhood, in a regular middle-sized community in the middle of America. I am an expatriate Texan transplanted to the Midwest, and wondering how I got here, and where I'm headed.

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Salon.com
DECEMBER 14, 2009 6:20PM

Winter Fun in Northern Illinois

Rate: 23 Flag

I can hear it now:  "Winter in Northern Illinois?  You're kidding, right?"

Perhaps I should explain.  I grew up in Texas, about an hour's drive south of the Red River.  Winter in that part of the country lasts about two months, and is characterized by two or three sub-freezing cold spells each year, separated by surprisingly pleasant, sunny days in the 60's and '70's.  Snow happens about every other year, and usually consists of 2 or 3 inches of the wet, heavy variety that falls during the night, and melts the following afternoon.  I never went sledding until I was an adult living far from my Texas roots.  In short, although I had a little bit of experience with snow and cold temperatures, I never experienced so much of it that it became tiresome.  Even after living in Northern Illinois for nearly half of my life, I still have a childlike excitement every year when the first snow falls, and the prediction of a mild winter this year makes me sad.  I like the feel of bitter cold on my cheeks, and like to play in the snow despite the fact that I am a little more than half a century old.

So, I'm not kidding at all when I proclaim that Northern Illinois can be a wonderful place in the winter.  Chicago, of course, offers much for the traveler regardless of the season.  I've spent some wonderful winter days and nights enjoying the cold along the lakefront, ice skating outdoors downtown, and window shopping along State Street and Michigan Avenue's Magnificent Mile.

But I'm not talking about Chicago on this post.  I'm talking about the area where I live, about 100 miles west of the city.  I'm talking about the quaint towns, forests, prairies, and scenic river valleys that offer a special magic in this season of snow.  

Still skeptical?  Then I invite you to join me on the little tour I took this past weekend.  Let's play in the snow!

 

**************************************************

 

There are about 10 state parks within a hundred miles of my home.  When people think of rural Illinois, most envision flat cornfields stretching to the horizon.  However, in this part of the state, you are much more likely to be surrounded by forests of pines, maples, and oaks hugging scenic river valleys.  Away from the rivers you will see remnants of rolling tallgrass prairie, the landform that earned Illinois its nickname, "The Prairie State".  The many state parks in this region protect both the forests and the prairies, and offer a variety of recreational opportunities, even in the winter.

 

snow river cliff

Pictured above is a branch of the Rock River as it runs through Castle Rock State Park.  The dominant feature of the park is a large outcropping of limestone along the river that rises about 150 feet above the valley. Here is a view from near the top of the rock:

 

snow castle rock view

 

A few miles upstream from Castle Rock is another interesting attraction, Lowden State Park.  The main feature of Lowden is a 50 foot tall sculpture created by the artist Lorado Taft.  Popularly called the "Black Hawk Statue", Taft completed the sculpture in 1911, in honor all Native Americans.  The site itself was the home of a large artist community that was associated with the Art Institute of Chicago around the turn of the 20th Century.

Here is the Black Hawk statue from across the river:

snow blackhawk distance

 

The statue is believed to be the second largest concrete monolithic statue in the world, and weighs 536,770 lbs.  Here is a closeup view:

 

snow blackhawk closeup

 

 

And the view downstream as you stand in front of the statue:

snow blackhawk view

 

Just about a mile downstream from the Black Hawk Statue is a remnant from the nineteenth century, the old Chana School.  We've all heard about rural one-room schools.  The Chana School is a two room school, built in 1888:

snow chana school

 

Not all of Northern Illinois' scenic treasures are located on the river.  One of my favorite places in this area is White Pines Forest State Park.  This is a particularly magical place in the winter, when the forest trails are groomed for cross-country skiers.  Here is one of the ski trails:

snow ski trail

 

And here is the shadow of Procopius as he takes a rest stop on the trail:

 

snow shadow
 

 
White Pines is the home of a lodge and cabins built in the 1930's by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).  It is one of two state parks in the area with CCC-built accommodations (the other is Starved Rock State Park).  My wife and I were married outdoors at White Pines State Park, and we spent the first night of our marriage in one of the CCC cabins:

snow white pines cabins

 

Of course, if you want less rustic accommodations, several of the quaint little towns in the area offer some fantastic choices, like this one in the village of Grand Detour:

snow colonial rose

 

For a different scenic experience, you may want to visit the tallgrass prairie.  The Byron Prairie Preserve was created in 1980 to protect a small virgin prairie remnant, and has grown to include a large tract of restored as well as virgin prairie.  There are trails for hikers in nice weather, and cross-country skiers in the winter:

snow prairie

 

The hill next to the Visitor's Center is a great place for sledders of all ages!

snow sledding 2

 

 

One thing you cannot do in the winter in this part of the country, however, is take advantage of the scenic dining tours on the Rock River Paddle Boat.  It is docked for the season.  Maybe I'll put out a post about it come springtime or summer, when there is a host of other fun things to do in Northern Illinois!

snow steamboat

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Comments

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I love Rockford, sure don't miss the snow. These are great pics; thanks for sharing them.
Gorgeous! I miss my time in Illinois too, mainly for the cold weather. It did get long of course, but I too loved that first big snowfall. Magical.

Beautiful photos Steve. I love CCC cabins. I stayed in some at Palo Duro Canyon a while back on a mountain bike journey with my son. You make me miss the snow.

(I'd rather be cold than too hot. You can almost always get warm enough, but you can't always get cool enough when it's really hot out.)

Thanks for this.
Awesome photo journey! You have a very handsome shadow!

Lived in Lake Forest for about 2 years back in junior high and went back to a reunion this last summer. Boy has that area grown up, especially out in West Lake Forest where we lived, which was all farm land when we were there. No more!

I only remember Illinois State Park Beach, where our 8th grade had a big class picnic back in 63! Well now, that surely does date myself.

Thanks for this pictoral treat!
This came through in the highest definition. Thanks for reminding me of the stomping ground of my youth. Vivid travelogue.
There's that mysterious white stuff again. What do you call that? I forgot, and none of my Santa Monica friends can identify it either.
R
Thanks for the tour--it was a treat. One question: was the two room school for division by gender or age? And how late was it still in use?

Well, two: You and your wife didn't get married in the winter, did you???
Castle Rock State Park looks like it would be fabulous at foliage time. Would LOVE to see some photos of that (hinthint Steve - your mission for next year, should you decide to accept it ;-D).

Marvelous shots, every single one. I don't really like snow and cold weather all that much anymore, but I too find a fresh blanket of snow covering a rural area to be magical.

Thanks for a stupendous tour, Steve. Excellent photos. Did I say that already? Well, it bears mentioning again.
I loved going along on the tour. There really is beauty everywhere if one just looks for it. Great pics. Totally enjoyable. Thanks.
hey we spent a night or two in oregon, right across the river from the statue. it's a lovely place. found a good drive in and breakfast place as well.
Kathy, glad you stopped by!

Barry, I agree with you about cold vs. hot-- you can always bundle up! Although when it's below 0, it does get a little tiresome! BTW, you should check out the CCC lodge at the Davis Mountains State Park in far west Texas sometime.

Cathy, I didn't know you had Illinois connections. Thanks for letting me get you re-acquainted with the area!

Stacey, I thought you'd enjoy the dejavu trip!

John, just think back to your New York days. I'm sure it will come back to you!

Pilgrim, I really don't know the answer to your question, although I'd guess the children were segregated by age rather than gender. The school building is now kept as a museum. And no, we got married at White Pines in May, and we were very lucky with the weather!

Bill, photography compliments from you mean a lot! Yes, the Castle Rock area is beautiful in the autumn. Not as many reds as in Vermont, of course, but lots of gold and orange!

grif, thank you, and I'm glad you stopped by!

squirrel, I know exactly the place you are talking about. There are several hidden restaurant gems in this area, including at the Colonial Rose Inn that is pictured here, and another called La Vigna, about 3 or 4 miles outside of Oregon.
I really need to drive around this country. So many beautiful spots I've never heard of -- thank you very much for the tour.
You're spot on. There are some really lovely areas in Northern IL. Hmm, a native Texan loving the freezing cold. Reminds me of a scene from Lawrence of Arabia when Ali (I think) tells Lawrence that he's another of those crazed Brits who falls in love with the desert.
Beautiful pictures. One thing I really miss here in Central Europe is proper winter weather for more than two or three days at a time. What you're left with is mud and fog - two things I can do without.

R.
Steve, I really enjoyed your personal view of where the beautiful, enjoyable and interesting winter spots are in your area! The travel guides would be smart to check out your post and add the kind of insight that you offer. Clearly there is no shortage of the white stuff in your area for snow lovers!
skeletnwmn, it's even pretty in Illinois if you look for it!

jane, thanks for stopping by!

Stim, I like the desert, too (and posted about that a long time ago).

Alan, the first time I ever went sledding was in Central Europe, on the front range of the Bavarian Alps. I liked winter in Munich better than winter in Berlin.

John, I remember you have posted snow pictures from your neighborhood. I am ready for some again!
Gorgeous pics! If I just took all my vacations at the places you tell me to, I think I'd be booked for a few years. :-)

I lived almost my whole life in San Antonio and we only got snow once (1985). But we got snow in San Angelo last week. 3 inches - gorgeous in the morning and gone by the afternoon. They get snow here every other year or so. My husband (from The Netherlands) really enjoys snow he doesn't have to shovel or deal with at all. :-)
these are great pictures. I grew up there and love to look at the pictures. But I am preparing my eventual getaway from snow
Steve, thanks for the positive feedback on last year's winter photos from my neck of the woods. Turns out I have some from the winter storm that came through here two weekends back and I'll post some of them this afternoon.
Wow. Beautiful photos. I love snow!!!
Kaysong, I remember that 1985 storm. A friend from Texas was visiting me up here in the north, and his flight was delayed a day due to that storm. As I recall, it hit right after New Year's Day.

Nikki, you know once you move you'll long for those white Christmases!

John, I'll be watching your blog for the new post this afternoon!

Gwen, thanks. I guess this last storm missed those of you in Chicago. We got 10 inches out here.
Gorgeous pictures! And that Procopius Shadow? I'm seeing a seasonal avatar...just sayin'.....
Much as I dislike the cold, you have drawn me in with this beautiful photo essay and gorgeous views. Wow. Not even shivering, well, except in delight.
Robin, thank you. Glad you stopped by!

Outside, Hmm, maybe that avatar needs to be revised. I'll think about that...

Sally, the cold is a good thing, if for no other reason than the opportunity it affords to cuddle up next to the person you love!
Wonderful post.
Rated.
A wonderful travel piece with complimenting photos. Some snow scenes are endearingly familiar for a Canadian like me.
~R
FusunA, I've never been to Canada in the winter. That's an oversight I need to correct!
Thank you. Great photos. I had no idea.
There's a lot of beauty to appreciate here in winter. It's just more subtle than the summer version. You've gotten a lot more snow than we have so far. Big snow has passed north and south of us. Maybe one of these days we'll have enough that I can break out the x-c skis and enjoy my own scenic snow tour - in a local park or nearby forest preserve.

I love your new x-c skier avatar picture.
bikepsychobabble, we had about 10 or 11 inches in the Rock River Valley, but they got 18 to 24 inches north and west of here. There are still about 3 or 4 inches of hard packed ice on the ground now. No longer good for skiing, but with a little luck we'll get more this week. I'm not a great skier, but I love to go nonetheless.