Rob St. Amant

Rob St. Amant
Birthday
December 31
Bio
My roots are in San Francisco and later Baltimore, where I went to high school and college. I stayed on the move, living for a while in Texas, several years in a small town in Germany, and then several more in Massachusetts, working on a Ph.D. in computer science. I'm now a professor at North Carolina State University, in Raleigh. My book, Computing for Ordinary Mortals, will appear this fall. www.amazon.com/author/robertstamant

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JULY 3, 2010 10:28AM

Sidewalks and plazas

Rate: 14 Flag

My favorite way to see a city is to walk through it. Cities have textures of different kinds; I like the feeling of being immersed in a city, moving at a slow enough pace to appreciate what it has to offer. Not all texture is to be felt: much of it is visible in the buildings I walk by, the people I pass, the streets I cross. Even the sidewalks.

These photos are of the area around the cathedral in Funchal, the capital city of the island of Madeira, where my wife and I spent time recently. We walked a good deal, on sidewalk mosaics of dark gray and creamy white stones. Some representational mosaics can be found--a row of fleurs-de-lis, a coat of arms, a historical image--but most are simpler patterns. 

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I'm struck by the amount of skilled labor needed to produce and maintain these surfaces. The lines between the gray and white are formed by the careful placement of individual stones. Each stone is only a couple of inches across.

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These sidewalks aren't just there to admire, of course. They're part of ordinary living in Funchal. This is the Praça do Municipio, the city hall plaza, where an outdoor TV screen was set up for the World Cup. One evening last week we joined a few thousand soccer fans to watch Portugal play Spain. The area was very quiet afterwards.

 

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 Down the street from the cathedral, we walked by a car show one day.

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And on the Praça do  Carmo, we watched a group of university students dressed in medieval costume play music one evening, followed by a fado concert.

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Author tags:

travel, photos, europe, portugal, madeira

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The photos are stunning. The sidewalk art, for it is art isn't it?, blows my mind. The student musicians remind me a lot of our Spanish-inherited tradition of "tunas". Were you and your family to walk down Old San Juan, you might find echoes of that elusive architectural language you define so well.
Thanks, vanessa! I am amazed as well--I agree that it is art, in the same way as old frescoes on the outdoor walls of buildings in other European cities. The student musicians were interesting. It was hard for my wife and me, as tourists, to figure out what they were doing, who they represented, and so forth, so I just asked one of them; he was too busy to talk, but he did mention that they were a group from the University of Madeira. They were boisterous, with their drum pounding, baton twirling, and flag waving. There happened to be a group of children with Down syndrome watching, and they were just as entranced as we were.
Ty 4 sharing your trip with us. I love what they did with their sidewalks. R
Lovely Rob. The walkways are important anywhere. Like art on the ground. Textures and colors, leading us from one place to another, with visual pleasure. the photos show how important the ground is to the surrounding architecture.
Thanks, Trudge. It's funny, wandering around looking at the ground when everyone else is looking up at the buildings. :-)

Hi, Gary. You wonderfully describe the relationship between the ground and the structures built on it.
Love brick and stone-work. There is true beauty here.
I think it was Henry Adams who said you can judge a society by its roads. Bad roads mean bad society. Maybe the same can be said about sidewalks and plazas. You've certaintly seen some beautiful ones. Thanks for sharing the photos. (I bet everyone was sad about Portugal's loss to Spain. Oh well, maybe next year.) Great post!
Thanks, Duane. I really liked your recent NY post, by the way.

Hey, Steve. Thanks. I really do love the grace notes I find in some cities, and sidewalks are one place to find them. On Portugal's loss--the noise after the Korea win went half the night, I think. The tie with Brazil, not so much. And then there was that downer at the end...
Cordoba is full of lovely sidewalks and plazas like this: gorgeous stone patterns. These are special, though.
Cool! Thanks for the pointer, AHP. I've visited southern Spain but never made it to Cordoba; if I ever get back...
We need more cobblestones in America! You have a terrific eye for noticing the extraordinary details that many would overlook!
I recognize some of this from my trip to Madeira. Truly remarkable--and one does wish that more places made art of the walkways and plazas! Wonderful photos, Rob.
Travel memories are great, aren't they, Susan? We may have visited every single plaza in the center of town to stop at a cafe, have a cup of coffee, and watch the people go by. (Not to mention looking at the ground. :-)

I agree, Steve. Cobblestones--the surface for the 21st century! :-) There are some cobblestone streets here in Raleigh, and they do bring some charm to the street. Who needs traffic calming measures like roundabouts?
That's funny, Inquisitive Canuck--I'm sometimes the same way. I'm following a set of parallel gray lines on the sidewalk, and I should turn down another street, but I wonder where these lines end up? The eyes down versus eyes up dilemma is sometimes a tough one.
This is one of those cities that's eternally clean, like Victoria, Vancouver Island (and most cities in Canada)