For us, the two mother sauces are red and green chili. This is not "truckers' chili." Green is made from the meat of the pepper as is the best red. More commonly, though, the red is made from dried chilies ground up, skins and all, or from a powder commercially available. We go on an annual pilgrimage to Escondida, NM, and stash away one quart bags of whole roasted peppers (Sandias and Barkers - hot and extra hot) until the freezer will take no more. Last year - 160 pounds (before roasting).

This recipe begins with one quart of defrosted chilies, peeled and chopped. Seeds can be a nuisance (we rinse most of them away) but the source of the heat is the vein. The Guinness is the half that evidently isn't going to make it into the pot.

Ingredients must be close at hand. Flour, canola oil, beer (in lieu of meat and stock - for my quasi-vegetarian wife), water and spices.

This chili begins as would a gumbo. Roux should come naturally to anyone familiar with bechemel or cajun sauces. I covered the bottom of the pot at medium heat with about 1/4 cup canola, stirred in about 1/4 cup flour (it's a consistency you're looking for, not an equation.) I put a well round tsp. of cumin powder into the roux (once my secret) and raised the heat to maximum.

Constantly stirring, the roux darkens and a fabulous nutty aroma develops. Stir in the half Guinness (an IPA works well too) and enough water to guarantee you can stop stirring for a second without causing lumps. Add the green chilies. Monitor closely and stir until the roux works its magic and the sauce begins to thicken.

Measurements are imprecise because the chilies have some water content, but add water if the sauce is setting up too thick. When it's on the cusp of boiling, remove from the heat. Let it steep a few minutes. The sauce will "set."

To taste, add garlic, Mexican oregano (more pungent than Mediterranean) and a little all-purpose Italian seasoning. Fresh cilantro is great, too, as would be chopped garlic cloves or home grown herbs and spices but this day we were low on groceries and relying on the pantry.

Old timers (viejos) will sit down to a bowl of this fire soup with crackers. Not recommended without conditioning. However, this mother sauce more commonly smothers enchiladas, burritos and other classic dishes.

No actual grandmothers' recipes were plagiarized to bring you this taste of Nuevo Mexico.