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Stellaa

Stellaa
Location
Santa Rosa, California, USA
Birthday
August 21
Title
Flaneuse
Bio
Δεν ελπίζω τίποτε. Δεν φοβούμαι τίποτε. Είμαι λεύτερος." Nikos Kazantzakis

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MAY 26, 2009 12:27PM

Breaking The Cooking Code : Paella

Rate: 23 Flag

For years now I have  tried to make a good Paella.  Something was always wrong, the rice was not cooked , or overcooked,   the saffron flavor was not there. 

Last year, I broke the code.  Well, I did not break the code, but I found it in the Spanish Table Cookbook, by Steve Winston.  Steve, owns a store called the Spanish Table, in Berkeley, California. 

Cooking via recipes is one thing.  You can pretty much emulate the flavors and can come up with a pretty good dish.  But, finding the code of the flavor melding of a particular dish is about the most exciting experience in cooking.  Thanks to Steve's technique, I now feel confidant.  Confidant in cooking something I love, yet it was never part of my cooking tradition.  

Back in the day we used to do that is by watching experienced cooks, our grandmothers, mothers, aunties, uncles, neighbors and dads.  They would tell us their tricks.  Their special ways.  The code would then be passed down.

That worked fine when we practiced mono ethnic cooking.   Now, we have travelled, we have gone to restaurants, we have wider eperiences, we have shared the food with our friends from those countries.     Our taste buds have evolved, we want to eat Spanish, Chinese, Indian and Veitnamese.  We want to make that mole like our friends mother makes--all we need is a glimpse in her kitchen.  Watching her timing, her hands and most of all the order of laying down the flavors.

Since I cannot have these kitchen forays, I read cookbooks.  I watch cooks on television.  I glean through their techniques and advice the bits that would and should work and make them my.  

I think of cooking as the art of building a flavor.  Taking ingredients and melding them into a melody with harmonic overtones. (gads...that was smarmy).  

Anyway, back to paella.  

1.  The number one thing is that you start with the biggest meat, chicken or, in this case I used rabbit.  (yes, Thumper).  That becomes your base flavor.  Ingredients are never removed.  If you see a recipe that says, cook it and take it out, do no follow it, it will cheat you of flavors.  The trick though is to have a pan that can take it all. Size, matters.

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2.  You add the garlic and the onions till they are clear, remember, no high heat, you don't want to burn them, you want their juices.  Coax them.  

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 3.  Then you add the Spanish sausage, the chorizo.  I have used dry kind or fresh. Remember, you are trying to get the flavor and fat from the sausage for the melding. 

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 4. At this point you add the rice and the pimenton or paprika.  I use 1/2 cup of rice per person.  No picture. 

5.  Grated tomato, wow, that was just the kind of thing my mother would do and it is truly brilliant.  You get a tomatoe and you grate it.  No canned tomatoes.  You see, I used to use the canned ones and they just over powered the flavor.  I now use this for Mexican rice as well.  

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6.  The stock, the wine and the saffron.  Like an idiot I used to just drop the saffron threads and then wonder what the big deal with saffrons was.  Get the wine, 5 threads per person, dissolved in 1/2 cup white wine.  Heat along with  the stock; one cup of stock per 1/2 cup of rice.   The aroma will first of all just make your nose and taste buds tickle.  

If you only do one thing from this process, do this.  

 

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 7.  Finally, the seafood.  It does not need lots of time.  Add it last on the top.  

 

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8.  Let it simmer for about 30 minutes.  Keep an eye on it but don't stir it, don't bother it.  

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 9.  When it's done, the rice should be cooked through.  No crunchy rice bits and don't cover it.  When I had a super duper Gaggenau oven in Berkeley, I would put it in the oven since I could get a nice uniform heat.  Now, my gas oven drives me nuts, so I don't put it in.  Soon, soon I will get another convection oven.  You hear that Mr. President, I will stimulate the economy.  

 

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 10.  When it is done, let it sit for a while, meantime you could have prepared some Sangria.  Remember you can even use white wine.  Fruits, citrus and any ripe stone fruits, berries.  Wine, some congac if you want a bit of a kick, or Cava.  Or just bubbly water. 

 

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Or just a bottle of some great tasty Spanish wine will do just fine.  It was a hot day, so I thought, Sangria, we must sit and sip Sangria.  

Summary of Proportions

1/2 cup rice per person

1 cup broth per 1/2 cup rice

5 threads saffron per person in 1/2 cup white wine

2 pieces chicken or rabbit per person

3 chorizos

1 clove garlic per person

1/4 cup onion per person

1/8 cup tomato  per person

Garnish, lemon, parsley, red peppers......

 

 

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Comments

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Sangria is good, but paella has never been high on my list. And yes, I have tried it many times and even in Spain. Maybe it is better with Thumper.
BBE, I agree, it's always mediocre, but this technique does the great melding of flavors. Try it, you will love it.
This looks real tasty even with the thought of poor Thumper in it. How do you grate a tomato?
That was my question, then I just did it, it really works and then you just have the skin left. No need for all that fancy stuff to peel etc.
What time is dinner? I really, really want to like paella everytime I try it, but I've never found a good one yet. Maybe this is it. I love number 6...I think that hint has legs.
paella I had in spain was never mediocre.
A great dish for summer, yummy. Love the tomato grating tip too
mmmm...wabbitt!
Lisa, well, probably not always, but restaurant ones can be drab. When I went, the seafood was lacking, that was back in the 80's.
JK, I tell you number 6, I have now used on other dishes with spices.
Ablonde, yes the tomato trick makes me happy. (does not take much)

Brian, yes, wabbit is good.
Nice! I'll try this some time... I had my first paella at a no-name cafe in southern Spain, and though I've tried to find that same blend of flavors elsewhere (even elsewhere in Spain), I'm still searching. Maybe it's a DIY thing.
OMG - I'm coming to your house for dinner. I love paella - even mediocre paella is okay in my book - but I am lucky enough to live in Washington, DC where there are a number of places to get great paella.

Thanks for unlocking the saffron secret for me. I may try it at home.
IF the food is delicious as this Looks? Wow O like this:`Textures, spices, sweets, and one who loves culinary ... I'll gobble up quietly. At the end of the scrumptious meal, there are no spoons, spatula, pitchforks, plates
and flying saucers.
I'll burp in thanks
one or a dozen x's
one last compliment
great paprika, papers
styrofoam cups, linen
kleenex tissues, beers
shells from the shore
ebb and flow Sangria
wonderful food, paella
does it rain in the plain
in Cadiz Spain? no dish
yummy yummy eat 'ups
great post starving? Yes!
Leave no scratch messes.
Scratch back of the cook!
Scratch with garden rake!
Then go bathe in the rain!
You haven't had paella unless you've had a really good paella. If you actually manage to make one, I can only salute you! It's an art.
You made me salivate. Great recipe and great lesson on building layers of flavor. I'm printing and saving this.
Stellaa, you are the doyenne of OS culinary arts, and it is an art, especially in your hands.
The paella I had in Spain was home-made over a charcoal fire in a cast iron pan/pot/skillet - I've never tasted anything as good. My host even deleted the seafood from the recipe for me, since I can hardly stand it. Have never come close to replicating it though . . .
As we say in my family when something is really good: "Good stuff, Maynard"! I'd love some of that now, please!?
Breaking the code... that is it, Stellaa. Exactly. A recipe without the code is not enough. Especially for something this complex.
Stellaa cooks again! If I find myself in California can I come to eat at your house? :) The tomato grating trick is so logical and handy, I first saw it done by sailors cooking their lunch on a boat from Marmara Island to Istanbul. It's amazing to me that so many cookbooks go to lengths about how to blanch the tomatoes and remove their peels, then dice them finely...I haven't peeled a tomato in years! Between this and favas, you've inspired me; I'm going to have to put some food on soon too!
Great recipe! I'll have to try it out. Paella is just about my favorite dish. Sadly, I had poor experiences with it in Spain, so I still don't know what "real" paella tastes like. But maybe I'll find out now!
Kipoure, not only a meal, a week. Hospitality has not limits.
Bbd, not true, there are many fine cooks, here, but thank you.
Owl, yes, it has to be over charcoal, but I don't know how to work with fire.
Arthur, your poetry pleases me and makes me want to cook more.
Ktm, this code thing is so critical. It seems that food has a way with flavor...it takes time, to get the flavors to mingle and meld.

Walter, yes, that was my intent.

lps: I follow you on twitter, nice to see you here.

Norwonk: Like my German husband says about beer that is not good, "this is good, but it's not beer"...

yekdeli, greetings to Maynard.
Looks great,

Will try it this summer. Also, Rabbit is great BBQ on the grill.
God, woman, you just made me want a paella pan so badly I can taste the metal.
Your observations concerning cooking experiences are so true! Cooking, really good cooking, is truly an art, although I can't eat dead animals.
Thank you for this. I have tried to make paella after having some wonderful home-made paellas in Spain, but never quite succeeded. The "code" is crucial -- I kept telling my niece that if she wants to learn how to cook, she has to watch me or her mother or someone who knows how to cook, do it. But she never does and her cooking remains limited and mostly awful.
Mmmmmm....paella. Loved loved LOVED the beautiful photos and general, user-friendly instructions, and appreciate that you didn't give a recipe, just a general code. I agree that that is the best way (maybe the only way) to really learn to cook. I'm trying this this week!
Yummmmmmm... (admission, I love thumper.) Your instructions are so easy to follow. And I love the tip about grating tomatoes. Rated!
NO MORE TOMATO SKINNING! I think I love you, Stellaa with an added 'a'. I will try next weekend; it's holiday and my paella shall happily simmer while I prepare the Sangria.
MTodd, yes, grilled rabbit and stewed rabbit with red wine. That is another post.
Verbal that is how these things start, you want the pan..then you have to cook in it.
Soap Box, yes...it's layers.
Emma, it is watching, seeing when and how things are added, the order and the timing. Maybe she will learn some day, but she better hurry.
Jezzabelle, let me know.
Shivaun and Psycho, grating the tomatoes is really wonderful. Now my mother used to do that with onions when she made a meat sauce, I still do that, the juices are great, and not all the chopping fuss.
Thank you so much for this, Stellaa! Learning to make a proper paella has been on my to-do list for a couple of years now, and you've obviously worked out all the kinks. And I LOVE rabbit. There's a guy at the Marin Farmer's Market who sells 'em every Sunday. I did already know about the grating tomato trick, from a Janet Fletcher cookbook. Especially good with those dry farmed early girls we get in late summer.

Now if only we could get some nice Mediterranean weather over here at this end...lately it's been more appropriate for hot toddies than sangria.
More than one great hint in this recipe...will also be printing this out.

Have you done a cookbook? You should if not.

Rated for insider tips and fantastic photos.
Love paella, and I've made some wonderful ones. Two things come directly to mind about your recipe. First, though it almost goes without saying, there may be a few timid souls out there who won't admit to not using a true paella pan when making the dish. I can see by your lovely pics you did, but a paella pan is the first basic ingredient one must have--large fry pans, electric skillets, and woks just won't work correctly.

Second, I must slightly disagree with you over the crunchy rice, though it may simply be a matter of semantics. The most delectable part of any paella is the socarrat, that caramelized rice on the bottom that has toasted and been infused with all the wonderful elements found in paella. My mouth waters thinking about it.

As for drinking, either an Albarino for white wine devotees or a Garnacha for red wine drinkers works well. Thanks for the rabbit tip and the grated tomato technique!
Mal, you are right, the uncooked crunchy, the nicely crunchy on the bottom, now that is another thing. Albarinos are just incredible.